It wasn’t until 2014 that the Loftus family sold the brand to Time Products Ltd., but despite the change in ownership the brand’s focus continued to be on affordable entry-level quartz watches. However, last year Accurist decided that it was time to have something of a refresh, and it underwent something of a rebranding exercise.

I have to be honest and say that I think it was an excellent decision. For the past few decades, Accurist has been basically just another fashion brand that offered generic-looking cheap quartz watches. However, with this revamp the brand has refocused on classic designs from its past, and made a real effort to offer attractive designs and excellent quality at its traditional entry-level price point. 

The Specifications

No model illustrates that better than this Origin Men’s Chronograph, which is Accurist’s take on a striking 1970s-inspired chronograph. On the face of things, this is just another basic entry-level quartz watch with some fairly standard specifications. The watch has 100m of water resistance, a sapphire crystal and a basic quartz movement. The exact movement is the Miyota JS25, a Japanese calibre with zero jewels, a 2-year battery life, and an accuracy of +/- 20 seconds per month. It’s an obvious entry-level choice, and whilst it’s nothing special, most of you will know that Miyota makes reliable movements. Unsurprisingly, the lume isn’t the best either, and it quickly fades after it’s charged. However, all this is completely fine for a watch that costs just £189, and there’s a lot in the design of this watch that makes it a great affordable pick. 

An Eye For Detail

Aesthetically, the watch is obviously very similar to the Zenith El Primero Revival, but Accurist claims that it’s based on one of their own models from the 1970s. I couldn’t find any similar vintage models online, but that doesn’t necessarily mean they don’t exist. Regardless, the Accurist’s similarity to the Zenith is not necessarily a bad thing in my opinion. The El Primero costs a whopping £7,100, which will be out of a lot of people’s price range. Costing under £200 the Accurist offers you a chance to get your hands on a watch with that El Primero styling at a much more affordable price. 

Without comparing the watch to the Zenith, the design of the Accurist is rather attractive. There’s a great mix of finishes and colours and the whole design feels very well put together. The brown and black of the minute track is nicely mirrored on the sub-dials and six and nine, whilst the silver sunburst of the main dial gives the watch a more dressy feel. 

The hands are simple sticks, but they’re well-cut and finished. In fact, the overall finishing of the watch is very good for the price point, and the only noticeable flaws are a couple of specs of dust on the dial. Unusually, the central seconds hand on the Origin Chronograph is the running seconds hand, and the chronograph seconds are tracked on the sub-dial at six o’clock. The other black sub-dial at nine tracks the elapsed minute. Meanwhile, the silver sub-dial at three indicates the 24-hour time. 

How The Watch Wears

The impressive finishing extends to the steel case. It’s a sizeable 41mm in diameter, but with a compact lug-to-lug of just 48mm, and a thickness of just 11.5mm, it wears very nicely on the wrist. The angular tonneau design of the case is probably the part of the Accurist that’s the closest to the Zenith. Given the price point the Accurist is at, the finishing is excellent. 

It might sound silly, but one of the most impressive aspects of the watch is the leather strap. At this price point, the strap is usually where a brand cuts corners, and leather straps often feel really cheap and nasty. That’s not the case here. Don’t get me wrong, the leather is obviously not as premium as you’ll see on more expensive watches, but it is very soft and flexible. The buckle is also nice and chunky, and the strap comes with quick-release spring bars so that it can be easily changed. 

Final Thoughts 

Accurist is a brand that for a long time has been dismissed by the watch community. And not without reason, as for a long time the brand has focussed on fairly generic quartz watches. But with this rebrand, it feels like Accurist has gotten back on track to offering excellent value and good designs. The Origin Chronograph is the perfect example of this, with a solid build quality for an entry-level watch. It’s also very refreshing to see such strong designs from Accurist. The Origin Chronograph might bear a strong resemblance to the Zenith, but they’re not competing in remotely the same segment. Judged on its own merits, the Origin Chronograph offers a nice funky vintage-inspired design for an excellent price.

You can read more about the Origin Chronograph on Accurist’s website here.

The post The Accurist Origin Men’s Chronograph – Accurist Get Back To Their Roots appeared first on 12&60.

I’ve owned two G-Shocks over the past few years, one was a 5600 variant, and the other was a 5610, both with a negative display. Which is one of the reasons I think I ended up selling both watches in the end. Whilst I liked the stealthy look of a black G-Shock with a negative display, the reality is they’re harder to read. The other reason was that, even though I know both watches were very tough, they were too light for me, and therefore they felt a bit cheap. I know that it’s a fallacy to equate weight with quality, but nonetheless, there’s something reassuring about a watch with a bit of heft to it. 

After these two brief flirtations with G-Shock, I thought that it just wasn’t a brand for me. But, a few months ago I came across the GW-5000U, a G-Shock model that seemed to fix the problems I’d had with other G-Shocks. The GW-5000 is the direct descendant of the first ever G-Shock, the DW-5000C, and in 2021 the model received an upgrade with a new module, which is denoted by the addition of the U to the model number. It’s also not a model that’s actually available in the UK, and I had to do a bit of hunting to source one from a retailer in Europe for around £200-250. 

What Separates The 5000 From The 5610? 

As you can see it’s pretty much the same classic square G-Shock design you get with the 5610, but there are a couple of minor differences. The main difference is that the GW-5000U features a steel inner core, with a screw-down case back, whereas the 5610 only has a plastic core with a steel back plate held down by four screws. This means that the GW-5000U is considerably heavier than the 5610, weighing 74g compared to 52g. The strap on the GW-5000U is also softer, which further helps it to feel more premium than the 5610. Lastly, not that it really matters, but the GW-5000U is made in Japan, and the 5610 is produced in Thailand. 

How The Casio G-Shock GW-5000U Wears

On the face of things, the GW-5000U sounds rather large, with a 43mm wide case, a 49mm length, and a thickness of 13.5mm. However, the iconic square G-Shock case is surprisingly wearable. Sure, it’s got a strong presence on my skinny 6.25-inch wrist, but it doesn’t overwhelm it. Plus, as I just mentioned, it has a high-quality polyurethane band that makes the watch very comfortable to wear. 

Of course, in addition to its wearability, the GW-5000U is also as durable as you’d expect from anything bearing the G-Shock name. In addition to its renowned shock protection, the watch is water resistant to 200m and charges off solar power. This last feature is a must-have in my book, as it eliminates the minor inconvenience of having your watch unexpectedly stop every couple of years when the battery runs out. 

The Legibility Of The Casio G-Shock GW-5000U

For legibility in the dark, the GW-5000U has a white LED backlight. This is activated by pressing the top-right button, but there’s also a neat function where if you look at the watch in the dark the watch automatically senses the movement of your wrist and switches the light on. You’re also able to adjust the length of time the light is on to either 1.5 or 3 seconds.  I know that there are those who will miss the classic electro-luminescent backlight seen on the older generations of G-Shock, but personally, I think the LED light provides excellent contrast and legibility, so it’s not a bad upgrade in my opinion. 

Speaking of legibility, the latest modules feature the clearest display seen on a G-Shock Square yet, but that doesn’t stop the GW-5000U from suffering from the same problem all digital watches have, and that’s the viewing angle for the display. By which I mean, that you can’t read the display from a wide angle, and that you need to look at it square on for it to be at its most crisp. This is the one area where I think an analogue watch has an advantage, as it’s much easier to tell the time from an oblique angle. It’s a minor point in the grand scheme of things, but one that I think is worth noting if legibility is your main concern. 

A bigger problem for me is that the GW-5000U uses a mineral crystal. Whilst the model isn’t at a price point where I expect a watch to always have a sapphire crystal, it’s an upgrade I really wish Casio would make to this model. Though the raised case of the G-Shock does offer some protection to the crystal, mineral crystal simply scratches too easily. In fact, I even managed to foolishly scratch it whilst filming outside for this review. 

You Can Never Have Too Many Features

Just like the latest 5610 model, the GW-M5610U, the GW-5000U is equipped with Casio’s 3495 module, which has more features than you can shake a stick at. I won’t list every little feature the module has, simply because I don’t want this review to just be me listing specs and features. However, to give you a broad outline of what the watch can do in addition to telling the time, it has:

• Radio-controlled timekeeping
• A day/date indicator
• World time in 48 cities across 31 time zones
• A stopwatch
• A countdown timer
• Up to five alarms
• A power-saving mode

Given that the watch can do so much, it’s pretty hard to argue that this isn’t the perfect choice of watch to take with you into the great outdoors. In fact, the only reason I can come up with to not choose a G-Shock is that I can’t connect with it on the same emotional level as an analogue watch. And that’s because there’s a certain old-fashioned charm to using a mechanical watch as a tool that really appeals to me. Perhaps it’s because they’re a reminder of a “golden age” of tool watches when the first iterations of iconic watches like the Submariner or Speedmaster were made to actually be used in adverse conditions, rather than to don the wrists of desk jockeys like myself. 

However, whilst I think it’s important to embrace those emotional connections with our watches, I think it’s also important to remember to pick the right tool for the job. Because, whilst I’ll always be attracted to the romantic idea of taking my mechanical tool watches out on an adventure, the simple fact is that this G-Shock is a much more practical and affordable watch to take on those trips. 

Final Thoughts

So, if you’re after a proper beater watch, you know that you can’t go wrong with a G-Shock. Though whether or not you should choose this GW-5000U is another matter. Because, whilst it’s a great watch, it will cost you in the region of £250, which is significantly more than a new 5610, which can be bought for around £100. Given that both models use the same module, it really comes down to whether or not you’re willing to pay 2.5 times more for the small improvements the GW-5000U offers over the 5610. Personally, I’d say, that if you’re after a G-Shock purely for its functionality, then stick with the 5610. The GW-5000U is more for those after a slightly nicer G-Shock square simply for its own sake. 

But whilst the GW-5000U might be a debatable value proposition at best, it’s still a very nice G-Shock, with a classic, understated design paired with a rock-solid build. Which is why it will remain my go-to beater for a long time yet.

You can read more about the GW-5000U, and the history of G-Shock, on the G-Shock website here.

The post I Finally Found The Best G-Shock For Me! – The Casio G-Shock GW-5000U appeared first on 12&60.

We have been spoiled by Spinnaker for some time; in that, they consistently create pretty great diving watches for a very reasonable price; usually under £250. This new Croft Midsize Limited Edition made me take a second glance at the RRP though, as it’s been a little while since I saw one of their watches cost £310. Granted, these are limited editions – with a run of 1000 watches over 3 models, and offer a slightly more special appearance thanks to the skeletonised Seiko NH70 movement. However, all is not lost, as if you use my code WIAA20, you’ll get 20% off it, making it a more reasonable £248.

Without further ado, let’s check it out.

Spinnaker Croft Midsize Specs

• Dimensions: 40mm diameter x 14.6mm height x 47mm lug to lug
• Weight: 100g
• Water resistance rating: 15ATM / 150m
• Movement: Seiko NH70
• Accuracy: 16.4 sec / day
• Lug width: 20mm
• Warranty: 2 years
• Price: £310; use code WIAA20 for 20%, off making it £248
• Available from: https://spinnaker-watches.co.uk/products/croft-mid-size-skeleton-automatic-hazy-sunset-sp-5095-01

This model is known as the “hazy sunset”, and it’s a delightful balance of vintage colours and finishes, the complexities that come with a skeleton dial, and the bold design requirements of an actual dive watch.

The base of the dial is purely exposed Seiko NH70 movement, with a smokey layer applied on top to increase the limited legibility. Legibility on a skeleton watch is always going to be an issue, however, they’ve attempted to get the best of both worlds here.

Talking about the movement, the NH70 is a skeletonised version of the ever-popular Seiko NH35, which you’ll find in the majority of affordable automatic watches. Whilst the NH35 is industrial at best with its finishing (read: plain and boring), the NH70 is certainly a step above, and they’ve done a great job in making it look surprisingly well finished considering the budget aspect of it. Specs include a low best rate of 21.6k bph, hacking seconds hand, hand and automatic winding, and an approx 41-hour power reserve.

Spinnaker has also added a custom application to the rotor, making the rear of the movement, visible through the exhibition caseback, appear a lot fancier than the plain stock option.

Moving back to the dial; the hands are thick and bold, ensuring optimum visibility on top of the complex movement; as well as the simple mix of disc and baton hour markers. They all have a brushed light bronze finish to them, continuing the vintage theme from the case.

The case is a great size and shape. On my approx 7” wrist, it fits excellently and I have no complaints at all. Whilst 14.6mm sounds tall, it wears a lot thinner thanks to the slender profile which contracts a lot from the sides to the top of the crystal and bottom of the caseback.

I must admit, I have questions about the case on this model. It’s described as steel, so either the description is wrong, or this is an applied coating, which might rub off in time.

The screw-in crown is a delight to use, with an effective grip and sturdy thread. Spinnaker used to sign their crowns with a motif based on the Spinnaker Tower in Portsmouth, but now they opt for some sort of fancy N. It looks nice from a design standpoint, but I’m not sure of the connection. Whatever the case, it’s nicely finished and well engraved.

Moving on to the bezel; it’s a simple enough aluminium insert, but it’s wonderfully executed. Lume-filled numerals and dashes, little neat dents at each minute, and a tidy red triangle at 12 with lumed pip within.

This brings us on to the lume, which is excellent. Thickly applied on all elements, it charges quickly, glows brightly, and lasts a while. Why can’t some of the more expensive brands just get their lume right?

Finally, we come to the strap. I always find Spinakker straps to be nice and thick, supple and high quality. I’m pleased to say that’s not changed here. It has a rustic matte brown finish to it which will age well, topped off with some cream stitched detailing at the lug ends. The buckle seems to have had a slight revamp to their usual too, with a more angular approach. It’s got a matching finish / coating to the case, which works well with the brown. The logo is neatly engraved on the top bar.

Spinnaker Croft Midsize Limited Edition Final Comments

I applaud Spinnaker for trying something different. In fact, these are their only skeleton models available. From top to bottom, it’s a genuinely lovely watch too – with Spinnaker’s usual excellent build quality. I like the vintage / rustic aesthetic, which is tastefully done. It also provides some of the best legibility on a skeleton watch I’ve seen before thanks to the smokey opaque dial and bold hands and simple layout. So if you’re after a skeleton watch, but have concerns for readability then this could be just for you.

The RRP of £310 is a bit steep for me, but using code WIAA20 for 20%, making it £248, is much more reasonable. For that, you get a solid 150m diver with a flourish that’s not the norm.

The post Spinnaker Croft Midsize Limited Edition Watch Review appeared first on 12&60.

Joshua, WIAA frontrunner and watch enthusiast extraordinaire, reviewed the First Season nearly 2.5 years ago, as did I just a couple of months prior to that. Both reviews were complimentary of the minimalist Swedish timepiece, and I’m happy to say that my second go with the brand has proven to be an appropriate follow up.

The Same, but Different

Aesthetically, the Second Season plays on the strengths of the First, but also differentiates itself in three meaningful ways:

1. First, the Second Season sizes down from 40mm to 36mm, making it a true unisex size. 40mm is far from large for today’s watch cases, but it’s fair to say that many women and people with smaller wrists find a 40mm case a bit big. After I dropped weight from 280lbs to 190lbs, my “preferred” 42mm case size became 38mm, with my “preferred range” anywhere from 36mm to 42mm on the high end (though I very much prefer 40 and under).
2. Second, Akerfalk has made some slight design changes to the dial that differentiates it while also throwing a tasteful nod to the original. Gone are the dots that adorned every hour marker (alongside the Arabic numerals), and in their place is an alternating Arabic/dot dial. The model designation just about 6 o’clock has also been updated, replacing a classical script font with a more contemporary sans-serif choice.
3. Like the dial, the lug size shrinks 10% to 18mm from 20mm. Again, this smaller size makes the watch more accessible without appreciably reducing its pool of buyers. It also keeps the proportions aligned and preserves its aesthetic identity.

These three changes are quite small and unlikely to be your “game changer”, but given the downsizing of the case, these small reductions go far preserving the feeling of minimalism of the first. Despite a 10% reduction in overall size, the Second Season feels just as spacious and open as the First.

Importantly, both the First and Second season are for sale alongside each other. The Second Season is not a replacement for the first; it is a complementary piece that offers wearers more options when picking their wrist companion of choice.

The Second Season Preserves its Charm

What made Akerfalk’s inaugural watch notable was that it was one of the few 24H dial watches available from a microbrand in 2019 that used a Swiss movement. Here we are staring down 2022 and still, 24H dial micros are uncommon.

Perhaps 24H dials are viewed as a novelty by some, but I personally don’t see them that way. I like the pacing a 24H dial brings to timekeeping, and I like being able to use my watch as a true allegory for progression throughout the day.

But, most importantly for this Akerfalk, I like how the dial and watch are put together. The watch is an excellent example of where less adds up to more. A few touches I appreciate:

• The domed K1 mineral crystal – Of course I’d prefer sapphire from a longevity point of view, but the aesthetic appeal of the domained mineral crystal is high and hard not to love.
• The dual-tone hands – Silver for hours, gold for minutes. I’m not sure if that’s a play on where you ought to prioritize your time, but I like to think of it as a subtle encouragement to value the present moment more than the ones to come.
• The caseback, which is nearly identical to the first season outside of revised finishing. The Second Season’s caseback is a satin/silk finish vs. polished one as seen on the original. The forest scene and descriptive copy remain more or less unchanged.
• The continued use of quick-release spring bars, which makes swapping the 18mm straps a trivial affair. Every casual or dress watch made today should come with a quick-release spring bar, if only because they preserve the integrity of your lugs (tell me you haven’t scratched a lug while changing a strap).
• The Horween leather remains as plush, pliable, and comfortable as ever. A definite step above the typical strap you’d find on a sub-$300 watch.

But It’s Not Perfect

While the Second Season is a great follow up to the first, there are a few things I’d change if I could:

• The water resistance rating + screw-down crown – Akerfalk claims 5 ATM / 50 M / 165 ft of water resistance rating, which is fine, but it’s odd that the WR rating is only 5 ATM given the use of a screw-down crown. I don’t mind screw-down crowns, but I prefer them to be used on applications that warrant it. You don’t need a screw-down to hit 5 ATM.
• The lack of any lume – Recognizing that it’s not uncommon for a dress watch to eschew lume in the name of style, that does not appear to be the need here. The printed hour markers could easily have been filled with lume, alongside a thin inlay for the hands, and you’d have a functional after-dark watch. As it sits, the Akerfalk makes it tough to tell time for ~12 of the 24 hours it reports opn.
• The mineral crystal is among the most reflective I’ve ever encountered – And while it has never prevented me from telling time, it has definitely made that goal more difficult to achieve (especially outside or in a brightly-lit space).

Consider that the above list is after spending nearly six months around my wrist – pretty minimal feedback, I’d say!

Final Thoughts on the Akerfalk Second Season

My style clearly aligns on the “less is more” motif, and in that way, Akerfalk’s entire range speaks to me. I like the clean, uncluttered lines and the focus on minimalism and simplicity. From an aesthetic standpoint, the Second Season is not a “stunner” in the traditional sense, but it is a fine looking watch and one that I think will complement just about every wrist.

Considering my criticisms lie with minor things and the crystal, it’s very fair of you to assume that, if you like how the Second Season looks, you’ll also like how it wears. The weight, size, and style all combined to create a timepiece that is at home on your wrist.

Given the cost of things in today’s world, the Akerfalk Second Season feels like an acceptable buy at its MSRP of $275 USD.

The post Akerfalk Second Season Watch Review appeared first on 12&60.

The colourways of the Hitchcock Automatic are inspired by the various polo clubs Hitchcock represented over the years, which is a well-thought-out touch. This one being the “Cooperstown” blue.

At £275, is it worth it? Let’s check it out.

The specs

• Dimensions: 43mm diameter x 14mm height x 51mm lug to lug
• Weight: 91g
• Water resistance rating: 5ATM / 50m
• Movement: Seiko NH35
• Accuracy: -2.1 sec / day
• Lug width: 22mm
• Warranty: 2 years
• Price: RRP £275, use code WIAB for 15% off making it £233.75
• Available from: https://avi-8.co.uk/pages/p-51-hitchcock-automatic

There are two key standout features on the P-51 Mustang Hitchcock: the dial, and that eye-catching crown guard.

Firstly, the crown guard, which supposedly echos the engine exhaust of the aircraft this watch is in honour to. It’s slightly reminiscent of Panerai, however, this guard cannot be manipulated or opened in any way – it’s simply a bar over the crown, allowing you just enough room to pull it out to set the watch. Setting it is pretty fiddly too, as you have to navigate around the bar and use just the very tips of your fingers. But, it sure does look cool.

The second outstanding thing about this watch is the dial. The Hitchcock’s multilayered dial is drawn from both the cockpit and body of the P-51 Mustang, offering depth, texture, detail and all sorts of style wrapped into one. The sandwich aspects of a number of the hour markers exemplify the industrial feel, as well as the faux screws which look pretty good. The plate sitting on the top right corner of the dial is a neat touch too.

The hands are just the right size, width and length, with a bold border to provide great legibility.

The lume has surprised me too. It’s not stated what type it is, but it sure is strong and charges fast.

The case itself has a sleek contoured shape, which wears better than the 43mm diameter and 13mm height suggests. Whilst the mirror-like polished finishing on the sides is not going to stay perfect for long, it does impress on the wrist.

The domed sapphire crystal is very reflective, but you do get a pleasing flash of blue anti-reflective coating at certain angles, albeit not very effective.

The identifiable padded leather strap is a genius design, inspired by the style of the P-51 Mustang’s seats. It’s beautifully soft, supple and comfortable straight out of the box, with a complimentary deep blue colour and light blue stitching.

Found within the Avi-8 P-51 is the Seiko NH35 movement. A tried-and-tested movement that’s in nearly every sub-£500 automatic. In a tribute to Hitchcock’s heroics outside the cockpit, the case back features the words “Ten Goal Tommy,” referencing his 10-goal handicap in polo. It’s coming in at a pretty amazing -2.1 sec/day.

Final comments

I think it’s a strong watch for £233.75 with code WIAB. Very clever design, and above-standard execution for the price point. It’s going to appeal to aviation fans more than anyone else, of course, but I’m impressed by the thought that’s gone into the various aspects linking back to the P-51 Mustang plane itself, but also to Tommy Hitchcock too.

The post Avi-8 P-51 Mustang Hitchcock Cooperstown Watch Review appeared first on 12&60.

Whilst the idea of paying money for a watch that’s “pre-worn” may make some of our toes curl up, it’s quite liberating when you think about it.

Never again will you worry about that first knock. When your beloved watch does eventually make contact with that door frame, you won’t peer down to your wrist with one eye closed and the other full of water, scared of what horrors await. As it’s all been done for you already. 

The case looks like it’s been out through a session in the washing machine. Alone. The bezel looks like it’s had a meet and greet with a piece of 80-grit sandpaper. And what’s that? Mould on the dial, hour markers and hands? 

They’re watches for a certain customer, and whilst I personally don’t find myself in that category, it’s got me thinking that there are some mental benefits to a “pre-worn” style watch. 

With an RRP of £250, it has all the specs you’d expect. However, I can offer a 20% discount code to all WIAA readers – WIAA20 – making it £200. 

The specs

• Dimensions: 44mm diameter x 13.5mm height x 50mm lug to lug
• Weight: 103g
• Water resistance rating: 20ATM / 200m
• Movement: Seiko NH35
• Accuracy: -2.4 sec/day
• Lug width: 22mm
• Warranty: 2 years
• Price: £250, use code WIAA20 for 20% off making it £200
• Available from: https://spinnaker-watches.co.uk/collections/wreck-mens-watch/products/wreck-oxidized-blue-sp-5089-02

When you slap it on, I feel it wears pretty large. 44mm diameter seems a bit overkill; 40-42mm would be a much sweeter spot and would make it a little bit more wearable and elegant on the wrist. For reference, my wrist is approx 7”.

Before we go into the main aspects of the watch – I must say, the lume is fantastic. I mean, just look at the depth of the application on the hour markers. They look like lovely thick slices of blue cheese with the mouldy spots and all, just need the crackers and pickle to go with it.

The name “Wreck” is certainly fitting for this watch: rustic and rugged, in appearance and finishing, from top to bottom. The weathered finish to the case means that you never have to worry about getting it damaged, scratched or dinged. However, it’s well machined and a real hunky chunk of steel. It has a pleasantly rounded profile and hugs the wrist well. 

The screw-in crown with the logo engraved on the end is solid in the hand and easy to handle thanks to the effective grip. 

The caseback doesn’t continue the worn finish, but rather is regular ol’ brushed, with the Spinnaker logo deeply engraved in the center, surrounded by various specifics.

The aluminium bezel insert has a gently aged fade to it, contrived of a plethora of scratches. The grip is really good, and the bezel action is superb – and incredibly loud when you rotate it.

Whilst the base of the dial is blue, it has a distinct variety of colouring (or discolouring) throughout. Again, to provide an aged, almost water-damaged look. I can’t take my eyes off the fake mould, they’ve done a great job on that. If you like that kind of cheese, expect to be constantly hungry. 

The hands and border around the date window have the same matte brushed finish to them, with that same weathered look as the rest of the watch. 

The legibility is great; the bright and simple lume-filled hands stand out against the deep blue backdrop. 

There are latitude and longitude coordinates engraved below the text in the bottom half of the dial. I’ve tried to dig into what they represent, or what’s found at that location, but sadly I can’t find anything – which is a bit remiss of Spinnaker, to be honest. I assume it’s to some sort of shipwreck, but it must be pretty important to be engraved on the dial, so why not share information about it? Anyway, visually it’s a nice touch and it exemplifies the overall texture-fest of the dial.

The thick leather strap is the only thing that is not worn out, thankfully; that would be taking the whole thing too far. It’s robust, with a gently textured top. It’s also surprisingly supple and comfortable on straight out the box considering the thickness of it. The tang buckle mimics the battered finish of the case.

Final Comments

I’m not going to tell you whether you should buy this watch or not. After all, I don’t feel that I can with a watch so potentially divisive. However, what I will say, is that if you do decide to buy it – then you’d be getting a lot of watch for your money, as is usually the case with Spinnaker divers. Solid build quality, pretty decent design, and specs on point. There’s little that disappoints when the watch is in hand – as long as you are ok with the aged, distressed look. 

Instead, I want to conclude by expressing how interesting it is to wear a watch like this. Whilst it’s not for me, I certainly see the appeal – I feel free, unchained, and unshackled from the usual concerns for the health of my watch. And for that, I can’t help but feel this is style makes the perfect “beater” watch.

The post Spinnaker Wreck Oxidised Blue Watch Review appeared first on 12&60.

During my presentation work for WatchShop, they introduced me to a diver that they’ve been instrumental in developing – the Depth Charge. I approached it with scepticism when I saw the price; a mere £179, expecting it to be poorly built with average specs. But, immediately my eyes lit up: sapphire crystal, Seiko NH35 movement, ceramic bezel, glossy dial, and it’s NOT a Submariner homage?! I had to check it out. 

Boy am I glad I did. Let’s take a look at why. 

The specs

• Dimensions: 40mm diameter x 13mm height x 47.5mm lug to lug
• Weight: 168g
• Water resistance rating: 20ATM / 200m
• Movement: Seiko NH35 
• Accuracy:
  • black: +10 sec/day
  • blue: -9.9 sec/day
  • green: -4.9 sec/day
• Lug width: 20mm
• Warranty: 2 years
• Price: £179
• Available from:
  • Black: https://tidd.ly/3gQOplH
  • Blue: https://tidd.ly/3xP0Rbh
  • Green: https://tidd.ly/3j5PcRi

The video review

The case is on the simple side; a fairly standard barrel shape with polished sides and a brushed top and bottom. The crown guards are also a simple curvaceous protrusion and protect the screw-in crown well, featuring the “DC” logo impressively engraved on the end.

The caseback is plain, with a polished base, the logo at the top and specs around the outer edge. I would have preferred brushed as it’s already scratched due to the back of the bracelet when I put the watch down. 

Deep hour markers leave a shadow and reflection on the glossy dial which drastically exemplifies their depth and quality. I also like how the underside of the hands provide a delicate reflection. Glossy dials as a whole supply a much classier, elegant and luxurious appearance; so it’s welcome here, on a watch costing a mere £179. 

The lack of date window produced an uncluttered, bold and easy to read dial. I prefer no-date dials for this reason, plus I never bother setting them correctly. 

It’s great that the dial has some uniqueness about it – predominantly due to the bold arrow hands. I’m so pleased that there isn’t a Mercedes hand in sight. 

The logo is quite possibly the only thing that may cause some division. I can live with it, but for others, it might seem a bit too overbearing. I must admit, it’s not the most appealing design – seems a bit too “tool-like” and not elegant enough for a watch. 

You have three different colours at your disposal, which is a decent selection depending on what you prefer. Each has a well-matched ceramic bezel insert along with the dial itself. The blue and green are pleasant alternatives to the regular black, but there’s just something so classic, so timeless, and so elegant about the jet black option. 

The bezel inserts provide a lovely glossy finish, and all markings are engraved accurately. Sadly only the pip at 12 is lumed, I was hoping that all markings would be lumed but for this much money, you can’t have everything. I’ve noticed a couple of the bezel inserts aren’t perfectly lined up, perhaps a quarter of a click out, but Seiko have issues worse than Depth Charge so I’m not too concerned. 

The lume is fairly decent for the price too – not strong enough to blow your mind, but it’s certainly noticeable which for me is perfectly suitable. 

Moving on to the bracelet, measuring 20mm wide at the lugs tapering down to 18mm at the buckle. It’s excellent for the price of this watch. Extremely comfortable, well-oiled, and moulds to the wrist so well. 

I’m not too happy about the polished centre link, it makes the watch a bit “blingy”, and is sure to pick up scratches immediately and easily. A fully brushed bracelet would have made the watch a better daily wearer. 

The double-locking buckle has the Depth Charge logo neatly engraved on the top, and what’s more impressive is the addition of a divers extension as well as three micro-adjust points. 

The movement selected is tried and tested. What else could it be? None other than the rustic, reliable, infallible Seiko NH35. Found in the vast majority of affordable automatic watches, it is cheap, easy to regulate, and just gets the job done. Still, I’m pretty happy to find it within this diver for £179. Whilst I’m not expecting COSC accuracy, the fact that all three of these watches come in (just) under +/- 10 seconds a day is what I would expect. 

It’s finally good to mention the decent 200m water resistance rating. 

Final comments

You can’t fault the build quality and specs. In fact, it’s tremendous value for money. In reality, I can only nit-pick visual aspects; such as the logo and polished central link. 

£179 is a steal. WatchShop also has the occasional extra 25% off (which they do at the time of publishing this review) so these watches can be had for a crazy £135. Now that is pretty insane. Yes, you can technically get something from AliExpress for cheaper, but it’ll take ages to arrive and you will most likely get hit with import taxes. Why not just get a more unique watch locally, straight from the UK? 

The post Depth Charge Diver Watch Review appeared first on 12&60.

Right away, it promotes a chunky, reassuring heft, with that affordable price tag too: an RRP of £250, but yours for £200 if you use my 20% off code WIAA20. 

Let’s check it out. 

The specs

• Dimensions: 43mm diameter x 14mm height x 50.5mm lug to lug
• Weight: 168g
• Water resistance rating: 20ATM / 200m
• Movement: Seiko VK73
• Warranty: 2 years
• Price: £250, use code WIAA20 for 20% off making it £200
• Available from: https://spinnaker-watches.co.uk/collections/meca-quartz/products/hydrofoil-racing-green-sp-5086-44 

I’m going to do things a bit different with this review and split the most important points into three main categories: things I don’t and do like, and other observations. Let’s get the negatives out of the way first. 

Things I don’t like about the Spinnaker Hydrofoil

Integrated lugs bracelet. Sure, it works well and looks good for the bracelet supplied, but it’s incredibly limiting. I feel this watch would look brilliant on a NATO, but unfortunately, it’s just not going to happen. You may be able to get a leather strap on it, but you’ll have to butcher the ends so much it’ll look terrible. 

I do like a big date complication. However, they also have to be well executed. I feel the date wheels are a bit too deeply set here, making the feature look unrefined. 

Screw-in pushers – whilst they’re great for water resistance, I’m not sure they’re completely necessary for 200m, and they make using the pushers a massive faff. You can leave them unscrewed, which actually looks quite cool, but they’ll inevitably loosen and will need twiddling. 

Slight bezel misalignment – whilst the pip at 12 looks spot on, there’s a slight misalignment at 3 / 15 mins. It’s not crazy obvious, but a bit disappointing. 

Things I like about the Spinnaker Hydrofoil

Now the negatives are out the way, I’ve got to say – there are lots to like here. Firstly, the price at £200 using code WIAA20 is certainly pretty competitive for a pretty unique and solid watch like this brandishing a mechaquartz. 

Hulk power – I’m a great fan of the green, especially how it has a fading / sunburst effect. Coupled with the bezel insert, it’s a refreshing change to the normal colours we see so often. 

Detail on the dial – whilst I’m not the hugest fan of the date window, the rest of the dial is impressively detailed. The wavey texture is indicative of the Omega Seamaster, which picks the light up nicely in the ridges. I also appreciate the high rehaut with a nearly flat top with a tachymeter printed on. There’s also a pleasant polished and bevelled border to the subdials which picks the light out well.

The overall finishing and chunkiness of the watch – portrays a very solid, dependable piece. One that could take a beating, and carry on beating. 

The bracelet – whilst the integrated lugs are a negative, thankfully the bracelet itself is superb, so it’s unlikely you’ll want to change it out. The links are hefty and thick, fully brushed too so as to be more resilient to scratches. The double-locking buckle has a cheeky wetsuit extension which is a nice surprise, as well as 3 micro-adjustment holes.

Other observations 

I feel the oversized subdial at 3 is a nice design touch, which reminds me of the attractive Ebel 1911 chronograph. However, I don’t feel that the 24-hour indicator is the correct subdial to highlight. Who really cares about that subdial? For me, the chronograph minutes at 9 would make more sense to make oversized. 

The movement is a dependable pick too, the Seiko VK73 is a solid mechaquartz with 3-year battery life and 5 ticks per second (1/5th second) chronograph seconds. 

Final comments

This watch actually pleases me more than some of Spinnaker’s mechanical pieces. To me, this watch has a purpose, a clear design vision, and a true uniqueness about it that really catches the eye. It’s also very well built and feels reassuringly solid in the hand and on the wrist. When you couple that with the reasonable price of £200 using the code WIAA20, it’s a hard watch to knock. 

The post Spinnaker Hydrofoil Racing Green Watch Review appeared first on 12&60.

AKIO’s founder, Sebastian, is a firefighter and runs a successful strap store selling primarily NATO straps; at mksnatostraps.com. He said it’s increasingly difficult to find an affordable automatic watch that’s tough enough for him and his work. So, he decided to make one.

AKIO is Japanese for hero, and it’s the notion of giving your everything in life and your endeavours that he wants to convey.

The AKIO AK-01 Uemura is a homage to the seriously cool Seiko 6105 or “The Willard”. Made between 1970-1977, it was famously worn by Martin Sheen’s character Captain Willard in Apocalypse Now; hence the nickname. Seiko makes their own modern version of The Willard, the SPB151, but with a price of around £1000, it’s certainly not in the affordable category.

Uemura is an interesting name, and it’s certainly interesting to try to pronounce too. The inspiration behind picking this name is Naomi Uemura, who was the first man to reach the North Pole solo in 1978. What was he wearing? None other than the Seiko 6105, which was securely strapped to his wrist for many more extreme expeditions before his tragic and premature death in 1984, one day after turning 43.

What we have here is a well-thought-out brand and model, aiming towards a go-anywhere, do-anything ethos. But does it deliver? Especially considering the RRP is a very reasonable £195? Let’s check it out.

The specs

• Dimensions: 42.7mm diameter x 13.2mm height x 46.6mm lug to lug
• Weight: 169g
• Water resistance rating: 20ATM / 200m
• Movement: Seiko NH35
• Accuracy: -12.0 sec/day
• Lug width: 20mm
• Warranty: 1 year
• Price: £195
• Available from: https://akiowatches.com/collections/ak-01-uemura/products/ak-01-blue

Video review

How does it wear? Whilst the 42.7mm diameter might sound like it’ll wear large, it doesn’t due to the relatively short lug to lug length of 46.6mm. There aren’t any real out-and-out lugs either; the case is a sort of tonneau shape and the lugs are integrated into it.

It’s the same for the height, 13.2mm doesn’t sound like the thinnest watch (which of course it isn’t), but it wears with a deceptively low profile on my 7” wrist. It’s very comfortable indeed and feel great on.

What’s struck me most is the beautifully clear flat sapphire crystal with a bevelled edge, which intermingles with the glossy ceramic bezel insert. The outer edge of the bezel has a polished rim where the effective grip meets.

The bezel insert is another brilliant aspect of a watch only costing less than £200. Ceramic inserts aren’t cheap, nor are they easy to get spot-on. However, even up close the markings on the AKIO AK-01 are accurately executed. The glossiness of a ceramic bezel insert is very eye-catching, dutifully reflecting the light.

This leads us onto the lume. BGW9 has been used on the bezel, with C3 luminova on the watch dial. The strength is pretty good but not outstanding.

The overall finishing of the case is perfectly acceptable for a watch costing this much. In fact, it’s pretty great. The join where the polished side and brushed top meets is clean and crisp, and the finishing is all uniform and neat.

The screw-in polished caseback is a little plain, but let’s keep the price in mind here. The AKIO logo features in the centre and is still nice and deeply engraved.

The screw-in crown is located at 4, neatly nestled within the surrounds of the unique and bottom-right bulge of the case, which provides plenty of character and superb protection. The crown has the AKIO logo engraved on the end.

This blue dial has a lovely sunburst and is more or less a direct replica of the Seiko. This opens up a sticky subject of homages – I’m perfectly fine with them – but some may not be. Either way, it’s got that unmistakable vintage / retro vibe thanks to the 70’s Seiko style. It’s extremely legible thanks to the bold hour markers and simple thick pencil-shaped hands. I also really like the design of the tip of the stick seconds hand, which provides a splash of red.

On to the bracelet, which I feel is the weakness of the whole watch. Don’t get me wrong, it’s perfectly acceptable for the £195 price tag, but it’s just left me wanting a little. Firstly, when you shake it around it sounds a little cheap; it has the end links seem a little loose and doesn’t fit the best; and an unsigned buckle. The double-locking buckle is nice and secure, but it lacks any special features such as the logo.

The watch also comes with a free FKM rubber strap. I picked the blue option, as it looks killer with the dial and bezel insert. It’s beautifully soft, supple and comfortable on. The buckle is plain with no logo, and I’ve also noticed that it’s not a dust magnet either which is good. I’m usually an out-and-out bracelet fanboy – I’ll always pick steel over a strap. But in this case, I feel the rubber is a much nicer wear and the better choice.

The movement is one that I see in 90% of affordable divers; the Seiko NH35. Timeless and dependable, albeit rather unremarkable; a hacking seconds hand and hand winding capabilities. It runs at 21.6k bph (6 ticks per second) and has 24 jewels and a 41-hour power reserve

Final comments

As I mentioned in the intro, the AKIO Ak-01 has some really big pros going for it. An affordable diver with great specs which is based on a stunning vintage Seiko is going to sell. A lot.

Unfortunately, the bracelet doesn’t quite live up to the rest of the watch; but the excellent free FKM rubber strap saves it. Everything about the watch head itself is stunning though – spotless build quality that is stunning in the metal. It also helps that this is a real “strap monster”; a watch that looks great no matter what shoes you put on it – NATO, leather, rubber etc.

In reality, the RRP of £195 is extremely competitive. No questions asked, if you dig the looks, then this is a fabulous purchase.

The post AKIO AK-01 Uemura Blue Watch Review appeared first on 12&60.

Akheilos are yet another brand trying to offer every specification going, with a couple of minor tweaks to stand out from the crowd, at a ridiculous price.

Yes, there are Submariner style watches available for less. But for me, I feel it’s still competitive. The overall build quality is a step up from the usual homage, and the 3D ceramic bezel insert is superb, it has a higher than usual 500m water resistance, as well as the radial gradient on the dial offering this watch something slightly different.

However, there’s one or two minors to note. Let’s jump in and check it out.

The specs

• Dimensions: 42.5mm diameter x 14.2mm height x 48mm lug to lug
• Weight: 153g
• Water resistance rating: 50ATM / 500m
• Movement: Seiko NH35
• Accuracy: +2.4 sec/day
• Lug width: 20mm
• Warranty: 2 years
• Price: $299 / ~£225
• Available from: https://www.akheiloswatch.com/shark-500m-blue-p0034.html

The video review

When you glance at the specs and consider the price, there’s absolutely nothing to balk at. Perhaps a better hi-beat movement than the NH35 wouldn’t go amiss, such as the Miyota 9015, but that would certainly bump the price up even higher.

For me, the star of the show is definitely the black ceramic bezel insert. Impeccably crafted; with tall. clean, crisp digits polished on top set against a blasted style backdrop. It’s certainly a much more rugged appearance than the norm. The action of the 120-click bezel is also very good – firm and smooth, but the alignment is the tiniest fraction out (that shouldn’t deter you, it’s quite common on cheaper watches – especially Seiko believe it or not).

SuperLuminova BGW9 lume has been applied on the dial markers; however the handset has SLC3. The strength is certainly better than average, which is good – but some may not like the slightly different hues these two lume types display.

The 42.5mm case wears smaller than that due to the comparatively short lug to lug length. It also doesn’t feel like a watch with over 14mm height. It’s got the dimensions to appear impressive, but it’s very comfortable on my 7” wrist.

There’s a cheeky little helium release valve at 9, centrally in the polished side of the case. On the opposite side, the screw-in crown features the A of the logo neatly, albeit lightly, embossed against a frosted backdrop.

The screw-in caseback is quite interesting; rather than opting for the normal rather boring plain flat brushed center, the Shark 500 features a vintage diving helmet. This is obviously a nod to the impressive depth rating, however as the name of the model is the “Shark” perhaps an engraving of one of those majestic beasts would have been more suitable.

The bracelet and clasp is a very impressive piece of engineering; most certainly better than the majority of other Submariner homages. The screw pins to secure the links were very easy to use and were never at risk of cross-threading. It’s comfortable on, with smooth action and a malleable flex. The double locking buckle feels secure and features the A logo laser etched on the flap bar – it’s a shame it’s not engraved.

It’s worth noting that the watch comes with a spare strap too; a beautiful thick, well-oiled genuine leather strap. The quality is top-notch, a lovely oaky brown colour, and it’s really supple out of the box. On top of that, you get a pin removal tool to be able to switch them out; as well as a screwdriver to resize the bracelet.

As mentioned previously, the NH35 could be classed as its weak spot. But, there’s nothing wrong with it. It’s a solid, dependable movement that will provide many years of service… it’s just not a very glamorous movement.

However, there is something that definitely classes as the weak spot for me. The logo.

With a background in design, I look at it and weep a little. Firstly, a pretty bland font. Secondly, what’s going on with the title case? A normal k, but a midget h and i, is a bit of a branding disaster in my eyes. The letters are all over the place and looks pretty amateur if you ask me. If you want to keep it simple, then pick a nice serif font in caps – at least it’ll be elegant enough to match the watch. This was a similar story for Phoibos, another brand very similar to Akheilos. But, they changed their branding and now it’s much nicer. My hope is that Akheilos follow suit.

Of course, I say these things because a logo means a lot to me, due to my background. For many, they won’t give two hoots over the logo – they just want the best value watch money can buy. And that’s totally fine; I completely get that.

Final comments

At $299 / £225, the Akheilos Shark 500 has a lot going for it. Very good build quality, with a couple of little tweaks to make it visually stand out from the rest of the Submariner homages. For me, the logo’s a pretty big turn off in terms of design. For those of you who only care for decent quality watches for the money, then it’s a good option. Otherwise just make sure you’re happy with how it looks.

The post Akheilos Shark 500m Watch Review appeared first on 12&60.

I see talk regarding the after-sales service not being the best, but I’m sure that with a brand this popular, for every person who complains there are a hundred silent happy customers.

I previously reviewed the Venice Rose Gold, which was a lovely watch for the money – certainly not as bad as I was expecting, as I let the negative press influence what I thought would flop out of the box in a heap of parts.

This watch is the Ascari, a motorsport themed chronograph. They’ve got the design on point, it’s simple yet striking. But with an RRP of £249, how does it hold up? Let’s check it out.

The specs

• Dimensions: 42mm diameter x 11.9mm height x 49mm lug to lug
• Weight: 134g
• Water resistance rating: 10ATM / 100m
• Movement: stated as Seiko VD54 (wrong) – most likely the Seiko VK63
• Lug width: 20mm
• Warranty: 10 years
• Price: RRP £249, available for £179
• Available from: https://shop.filippoloreti.com/products/ascari-black-steel-link-1?variant=32729661898837

The video review

The case

Coming in at 42mm in diameter, it’s not a small watch as such, but the relatively dumpy lug-to-lug length of 49mm means it wears smaller than that. The case is primarily brushed, with polished bevelled shoulders.

The impressively detailed caseback features Alberto Ascari and his Ferrari, an Italian racing driver and twice Formula One World Champion (52 and 53). An obvious source of the name and racing vibe of the watch.

One choice that has made me curious is that of the bezel insert: interestingly it has 12-hour dual-time zone marking. As this is such a sport-inspired watch, a regular countdown or tachymeter markings would be much more suitable. I’m not sure how many clicks the bezel has, I counted at around 90 which is a strange number. It’s loud, satisfying and easy to use.

Sitting on top of the watch is a flat sapphire coated mineral crystal. It’s beautifully clear and provides a great view of the dial.

The push-pull crown has a cute checkered flag, the style used in racing, embossed on the end, which is neatly done.

The pushers are easy to use, but visually I’m not sure if they’re on the slightly small side.

The dial

The dial is all about this beautiful textured finish, providing a great amount of depth and detail. The amount of detail captures by the texture also changes based on the amount and angle of light, it’s captivating to look at.

The bi-compax dial configuration is a winner in my eyes; with a 60-minute chrono counter on left, and a 24-hour indicator on right. The subdials have a lovely concentric circular pattern, which again provides more texture to the dial.

The Ascari has rather simple pitched and polished pencil hands, with lumed channels near the tip. The lume is distinctively average.

The printwork on the dial is delicate and fine, and is neatly done considering the depth of the texture it is printed on.

The applied hour markers are pitched, polished, with a lumed channel to match the hands. They also have an angled tip and are deep and well made.

The bracelet

When you shake the watch around a bit, the bracelet feels a little flimsy, but under closer inspection, is well made. The flimsiness is probably due to the short links; when used in conjunction with the two micro-adjustment points on the buckle, you can get a great fit.

The polished central link is eye-catching and reflects the light well. The end links are solid and fit nicely between the lugs. It’s also great to see quick release pins on a bracelet, especially on a watch costing this much.

The buckle is understated but rather classy. It’s pretty quaint, featuring a brushed finish with polished bevelled edges. The logo sits on a frosted bar in the centre.

The movement

Stated as Seiko VD54 mechaquartz chronograph – but that has the chrono running seconds hand as subdial at 6. On this watch, chrono running seconds is the big seconds hand – therefore it’s most likely the Seiko VK63.

It has a very good reputation as being a hybrid “mecha-quartz” movement: it’s battery-powered, with the main time function being quartz, and the chronograph function is driven by a mechanical module (also battery powered, so no winding). The beat rate of the chrono is 18k bph (5 ticks per second), and it has 3-year battery life.

Final comments

Currently available for £179 direct from Filippo Loreti, do I think the Ascari is a good buy? One thing’s for sure: it’s extremely well designed – it looks lovely in the hands and on the wrist. However, I don’t necessarily feel as if anything is outstanding about it – but I suppose that comes with the territory in this price range. In terms of specs, it ticks all the right boxes – so in terms of what you’re getting for the price, it’s a pretty good option if you’re after an affordable, classy, motorsport themed chrono.

The post Filippo Loreti Ascari Chronograph Watch Review appeared first on 12&60.

“Audaz Watches specializes in developing Professional Dive Watches with right technology and best quality components to withstand the high demanding challenges for your underwater adventures.”

Their latest model, the Octomarine, builds on the successes of those previous models. In fact, I’d say it’s their best yet. Let’s check it out.

The specs

• Dimensions: 42mm diameter x 16mm height x 51mm lug to lug
• Weight: 205g
• Water resistance rating: 50ATM / 500m
• Movement: Seiko NH35
• Accuracy: +11.4 sec/day
• Lug width: 22mm
• Warranty: 2 years
• Price: $425, use 30% off code WIAA30 to make it $297.50 / ~£230
• Available from: https://www.audazwatches.com/collections/octomarine/products/adz-2070-05

The video review

The case

Let’s first consider how it wears. Whilst the diameter of 42mm isn’t that big on its own when you combine that with the relatively long lug to life length of 51mm, and the definite tall height of 16mm, it wears like a chunky beast. There’s no doubt about it, this is a lot of steel, and for many, that’ll make this watch a real winner.

Of course, the 16mm height is mainly due to the rather insane and highly impressive water resistance rating of 500m. This does limit it in terms of wearability; I can’t imagine it’s the most comfortable in a suit (if you can even get it under a shirt). There’s a lovely cheeky little HEV (helium escape valve) on the side of the case; showing that this is the real deal.

The Octomarine has a 120-click uni-directional bezel loaded with a two-tone ceramic insert. The black and blue is reminiscent of the Rolex GMT Master II, which is a solid nod to a classic watch. The notch edging makes it easy to grip, and the action is beautifully smooth providing a lovely click.

The flat sapphire crystal is a great plus thanks to its scratch-resistant properties. I’ve no doubt it’s pretty thick too, due to the water resistance rating. However, I feel it could do with some sort of anti-reflective coating on the underside – as it’s a little bit reflective.

The screw-in crown has a plated steel grip and protrudes out quite far. It makes it very easy to use, but a bit of an eyesore. It also features the Audaz logo neatly engraved on the end.

The caseback is a real treat. It features an insanely detailed deep stamped octopus motif in the centre, and to get this kind of steelwork on a watch costing this much is quite simply absurd. Various specifics and the Audaz logo are deeply engraved surrounding it.

The dial

The dial has a black sunburst backdrop, which means good legibility when the chunky hour markers and hands are involved. It’s a subtle sunburst, just enough to catch the eye at certain angles.

One thing that always impresses me, is deep, chunky hour markers. It shows attention to detail and good build quality. That’s certainly the case here.

In addition to the bold hour markers, we have complimenting highly legible sword hour and minute hands, with an orange border around the minute providing a splash of colour. The seconds hand is a straight white stick with a slight bulge acting as the counterweight.

On to the logo, which is probably my biggest issue. Thinly applied logos like this one always end up looking a bit cheap, and can often cheapen the overall look of a watch. Whilst it’s not quite that drastic with the Octomarine, it’s a real shame to see this thinly applied logo when a simple printed job would have looked so much classier and better.

The date window at 3 is surrounded by a neatly brushed border to match the finishing of the hands and hour markers. Some may complain that the date wheel is not colour matched with the dial, but in the interests of legibility, I feel a white date wheel stands out more and is easier to read.

The dial and bezel insert has been slathered with Swiss SuperLuminova. It’s strong, quick to charge, and lasts a good amount of time. It’s the kind of strength where you see it glowing after coming in from daylight into a darker room – I love that.

The bracelet

The bracelet is as chunky as the case, it’s very well balanced to counteract the weight of the watch head, and gives the impression of solid and dependable build quality.

Each link is made up of 5 individual links, and resizing it wasn’t too bad – there were two small collars within links 2 and 4, so make sure you don’t lose them!

The links are quite short, and when coupled with the 4 minor adjustment points on the clasp, you can get a pretty perfect fit. They’re all very deep and well manufactured, creating a very contoured wear on the wrist.

The double locking clasp is simple, secure and no-nonsense. The Audaz logo is deeply engraved on the main section.

The movement

I’m sure that 90% of the watches I’ve reviewed in recent memory house the Seiko NH35A. It’s everywhere, especially in the affordable microbrand market – but with good reason. It’s cheap, easy to source, and reliable. Specs include a low beat rate of 21.6k bph (6 ticks per second), hacking seconds hand, and hand and automatic winding. It’s pretty industrial to look at, but thankfully it’s behind the solid caseback on the Octomarine.

Final comments

Using discount code WIAA30, this hunk o’ chunk o’ steel is a very reasonable $297.50 / ~£230. Actually, that’s not just “reasonable” – that’s pretty fantastic. The specs alone are excellent – 500m water resistance, dependable movement, ceramic bezel insert, sapphire crystal with good AR coating, all topped off with flawless build quality.

There are only two minors to note: firstly, the height of this thing at 16mm restricts its wearability, and secondly, the applied logo looks a tad cheap. But apart from that, it’s a sensational watch at an unbelievable price.

The post Audaz Octomarine Watch Review appeared first on 12&60.

It’s clear that in their short history CIGA Design have made quite an impact and looking at their catalogue of products it’s easy to see why. They’ve taken a different approach to watchmaking and design, and it hasn’t held them back at all.

Awards and accomplishments aside, do their watches make sense on an everyday basis and do they provide good value for money or are they just showpieces?

SPECS

• Dimensions: 40.8mm wide
• Thickness: 12.3mm
• Lug width: 22mm
• Lug-to-lug: 48mm
• Case material: DLC coated 316L stainless steel
• Crystal: 1.2mm thick Sapphire
• Dial: Skeletal
• Movement: Seagull ST2553JK
• Power reserve: Quoted up to 40 hrs / tested approximately 53 hrs
• Accuracy: -15/+30 per day
• Jewels: 25
• Water resistance: 30m
• Weight: 90g
• Strap: Standard silicone / Red ltd edition strap / leather strap for first 500 orders
• Warranty: 2 years
• Price: £215
• Available from: https://cigadesign.co.uk/collections/our-watches/products/z-series-dlc

The Z series is unlike any other watch I have had the privilege to get hands-on with during my time on WIAA, but is that a good or bad thing?

Well, the first grabbing attribute has to be the styling, it’s very unorthodox to say the least, but I like it. The immediate thing that draws you in is that the watch is transparent and you can see through most parts of it. This honestly took some getting used to as it’s my first real experience with a skeleton design watch, though I was taken back by the beauty of it all. You can see every little detail including the balance wheel, the jewels in the movement, even when the mainspring is fully wound or unwound and then even right down to the gear train that moves the hands, it’s quite marvellous actually. I mean I appreciated the art of an automatic before experiencing this watch, but now seeing all the minute parts adds a whole new perspective. Just by eye, it looks fantastic, but under macro, you see so much more. I even love the craft that’s gone into the framework, the skeleton of it all – it’s certainly not boring and adds to the complex beauty of it. I get why some dislike this as it somewhat a lot to take in, but I love it. Is it practical for telling the time, nope, not at all.

Enough of the fanboying, why don’t we get a bit more serious. Starting out and working in, we have the minute track and markers; these are nicely-designed and suit the aesthetic, though they are somewhat hard to see at a glance. The squarish nature does little to help matters either which can make telling the time a bit more difficult as you have to stop and look to get an accurate sense of the time. Looking towards the middle you’re greeted with the handset; these are partially skeletonised and feature a red-tipped arrow at the end. There is also a slight arrow of lume which is frankly all but useless as nothing else is lumed, so when they glow, it’s nigh on impossible to tell the time. Admittedly I do like the design of the hands and they perfectly mesh with the scheme, though they do little in the way of helping. The second’s hand is finished in a bright red and does stand out quite nicely – at the end of it, you can see a needle eye counterbalance which again is befitting. And finally, you’ll note the applied Ciga Design logo at the 3 o’clock position.

Honestly, there’s a lot to take in here, and it can be overwhelming and somewhat difficult to tell the time even in the best conditions, yet there’s still something that makes me want to gaze at it, and I can’t say that for many watches around £200. A final thing to note would be that there appears to be some minor dust particles inside the watch as well as a small imperfection in the red portion of the hands. This is more than likely an uncommon issue, though it does somewhat detract from the overall quality.

The heart isn’t the only interesting design element of the watch as the crystal is not dull either. The Sapphire crystal is 1.2mm thick which is impressive in its own right, but that’s not even the best thing about it. The crystal curves ever so slightly with the profile of the watch – flat just wouldn’t have worked here, and I’m glad Ciga have gone the extra mile to make the crystal flow so well with the profile.

There also appears to be some very slight AR coating on the inside of the crystal, though when the movement and hands catch the light, it doesn’t do a deal to reduce the glare from them.

To the case and again this is something full of little flourishes you don’t often see. Starting with the front, the first thing that takes you in is the exposed polished cube design elements, these don’t appear to have any function in terms of structure, but they do look pretty cool, and they tie in with a common theme which you’ll see further down in the review. These cube elements are set into two curved cut-outs in the case that allow you to see all the way through, again not necessary, but just another factor that adds to the coolness of this watch. Via these slits, you can also see part of the crown stem which is a design element all on its own. The top section is also very nicely brushed, which is done to a good standard. I’m also a fan of how the designers managed to blend the curves of the side of the case with the more angular components between the lugs, this is hard to do, but they pulled it off very well. For me, it just works, but I get not everyone will be a fan. One last thing to mention is that the case finish does pick up dust and lint quite easily, as well as showing fingerprints so keep that in mind as it can become a chore to keep clean.

4A

The right-hand side of the case is where you’ll find some very robust crown guards which are integrated into the side of the watch. These are then flanked by more of those shiny cubes. This is probably my only gripe with the design, and I think these two are probably not needed as they upset the balance somewhat. I think here they should have perhaps DLC coated them, so they blended rather than stood out so much. The crown is a simple push-pull affair and is signed as well as featuring a nicely knurled grippy texture which makes it easy to use. The guards don’t impact the crowns use either which is a big win.

On the left-hand side of the case, you’ll find some stealthy branding that in certain light you can’t see, but in the right light it stands out nicely. The design pattern mimics the crown guards without them being integrated there. The branding appears to be slightly embossed on a sand/bead blasted portion. It’s hard to describe, but it looks great and has a nice tactile feel. That isn’t all as Ciga has taken things up a notch with a carbon coating that adds an extra layer of durable protection as well as looking stunning too. This is achieved with a DLC (Diamond-like) coating on the watch head.

4B

To the back of the watch and here you’ll find a flat piece mineral crystal that acts a viewing window to see the rear side of the Seagull movement and the custom DLC coated rotor. The caseback is held in via four screws and features a similar finish to that found on the front of the case. You’ll also find some nicely engraved information on the watch.

Ciga’s movement of choice is the Seagull ST2553JK which is a 25 jewel movement that has a beat rate of 21600/hour, a hacking seconds, automatic and manual winding as well as a quoted power reserve of 40 hours. The accuracy is stated between -15/+30 seconds per day, and it’s easily within this tolerance. The big surprise here was the power reserve, the quoted time of up to 40 hours is great, though during testing it lasted closer to 53 hours when fully wound. That is pretty impressive as most barely manage 30 to 40 hours at this price point. The other great experience with this is watching it wind, usually, with a manually winding watch, all the components are hidden, whereas if you flip the watch and look at the back, you can see the cogs and gears turn as they wind up the mainspring, it’s quite a sight to behold. As for the winding, it feels reassuringly solid, and there is plenty of audible, tactile and visual feedback, yes you can see the spring tighten as you wind which means you can never really overwind the watch. In use, setting the time feels and looks great, you get some nice feedback that feels smooth and not grating, the hands turn smoothly and quickly yet not too freely, it’s just about bang on. As there is no date you only get two positions. One is pushed in and this allows you to manually wind the watch, the second is pulled out which hacks the seconds and allows you to set the time, it’s quite straight forward.

With the Z Series, you get a selection of straps. The main strap is a black silicone that has the same cube design as you’ll find throughout the watch. The second is a red silicone strap (only available for the first 300 orders, all are gone already sadly) which looks fantastic – and pretty funky, yet it has this weird texture inside: I didn’t so much like that. The build is great, however, the inner texture just didn’t do anything for me. The third and final strap is a leather one that is only available for the first 500 orders. The leather strap isn’t that great actually: it’s a black faux croc and feels a bit stiff and plasticky. Honestly, out of the three, the black silicone is the best of the selection, and that is what I used the most. The black silicone features the aforementioned cube pattern like the rest of the watch, but they’ve again gone a bit extra as the adjustment holes line up with the top of each cube, this little attention to detail is something you’d expect on higher-end watches let alone one under £250. It doesn’t stop there either as you’ll see an even more complex design inside the strap along with some quick release spring bars. The top section of the strap features the branding, two floating silicone keepers and a signed black buckle. Like the case, the strap is somewhat of a dirt and lint magnet as it gets easily stuck in the gaps and to the surface. Bit of a shame as the strap looks dirty most of the time. All in all – minus the dust/lint issue, the main strap feels well made, looks cool, but is it comfortable?

Well, it’s a mixed bag. The watch head is comfortable for me thanks to the short lugs, profile and weight, although does tend to sit on top of my wrist rather than conforming to it. It’s still comfortable though. The strap, however, is a different story. The strap silicone is nice and soft, smooth on the inside and very flexible, but for my wrist size (6”/15.4cm) it just doesn’t fit nicely. One adjustment is too loose, and the other is a bit too tight, there’s no happy medium for me though that would more than likely be different in your case. During wear, I noticed that the first few hours were okay but after three or so, it started to become a bit more bothersome, plus it gets quite hot too which is not so bad in the UK, but in warmer climates might be a bigger issue.

Strap options are sort of limited too, single pass and natos are likely not to work very well as the lugs are set high in respect to the caseback meaning they may fit, though would likely not be all that comfortable. So that leaves you with two-piece natos, silicone or leather, luckily it’s got 22mm lugs so strap options are aplenty and you may need to look at another option if you have a similar experience to me.

To sum up, I’m a fan, though that aside this watch is far from perfect. Starting with the time telling issue; this could be a big deal-breaker depending on what you want and need. There’s then the few design elements that I wasn’t so keen on, and finally, two of the bundled straps didn’t do anything for me in terms of comfort, but I can’t deny that the red one looks great. So some of these issues are a matter of preference, and one is likely not going to impact you though if it does, it’s an easy problem to fix. The big main issue for me is the legibility across the board. In the daytime, it’s hard enough to read at a glance, and when it gets dark, it’s almost impossible. Another minor complaint is the dust and lint build-up that happens quite often on both the case and strap. Not deal-breaking bad, but it can be tiresome trying to keep it looking pristine.

On the flip side, I love the design, the attention to detail is pretty stellar for this price point, and there’s honestly a design cohesion that you just don’t see that often. Yeah, there are a few things to nitpick, but you have to admit that they’ve taken a not uncommon design, and made it their own, then carried that theme throughout and made it work. Very few can claim to do the same. However, that doesn’t take away from the primary purpose, to tell the time and sadly it falls hard.

Yet, I still want to wear it and admire all the details. So great at time telling it might not be, but it sure is a fascinating piece and a definite conversation starter.

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