Before I get into the nitty gritty, let’s take a look at the hard, cold facts. The Rocket will launch on Kickstarter in August 2024, with an early bird price of £296. Ember’s first run will be for just 300 pieces in total, split across four colourways. My review model is the orange and blue, but you can also choose between pink dial with black chapter ring and yellow accents, black dial with blue chapter ring and yellow and pink accents, or white dial with a mint chapter ring. Once the early bird pricing ends, the price will increase to £395. Ember Watches is based in Honiton, England and brand owner John is a furniture designer by trade, but he has always had a deep passion for watches. I guess therefore it was inevitable that John would want to turn his own watch ideas into a fully-fledged design, and then turn that design into reality. His aim was to create unique and distinctive watches that do not follow traditional conventions. Now, after four years of blood, sweat and tears and numerous prototypes, he is ready to launch. 

When I first saw the Ember Rocket come up on my IG feed, I was immediately drawn to its angular design, so much so that I immediately got in contact with brand owner John Glinister, despite being on holiday at the time. Thankfully he was kind enough to satisfy my curiosity by sending me a loan watch well ahead of launch. But great design doesn’t always result in a well-executed watch in the flesh. So how has the Ember Rocket fared after spending a week with it on the wrist? Has my initial enthusiasm fizzled out, or is the fire still burning?

Ember Rocket Case Design and Wearing Experience 

Let’s not be backwards in coming forwards here, it’s all about the bass…I mean the case! Whilst the rest of the watch is great, it’s the case design that is the crowning glory of this watch and what a masterclass of design it is. You can clearly tell that this is a design-led watch penned by an experienced designer, albeit from a different field. John has clearly gone through the same processes and put the same level of thought into the Rocket as he undoubtedly does for his furniture. It didn’t end up looking this good by accident, and it hasn’t just been assembled from a bunch of factory-ready parts, which is why it doesn’t look quite like anything else on the market.

The case dimensions will be in the sweet spot for many, me included. The 40mm bead-blasted matt stainless steel case has a 47mm lug to lug, and a height of 12mm. The caseback is also slim, which means that the watch sits very well on the wrist, nestling down, rather than sitting on top, resulting in a well-balanced and comfortable watch.

I’m a huge fan of sharp, angular geometry. It’s why I love my Grand Seiko so much and it’s also why it was love at first sight for me with the Rocket. The top side of the case is octagonal, but the Rocket has more than 30 facets in total, each one precisely cut (I stopped counting at 30!). Other microbrands have used angular cases, but the Rocket takes it up a notch and crazy as it sounds, this alone is worth the entrance fee. The proportions and angles of each facet just work to perfection and the bead-blasted finish is befitting of the modernist approach. Sometimes when a bead-blasted finish is used it can ever so slightly soften the crisp edges, but not here. Each perfectly flat surface meets the next with an ultra-crisp and precise transition. The polished bezel provides just a hint of contrast against the cool, steely grey of the case and an unsigned, unguarded screw-down crown helps the watch to achieve a water-resistance rating of 100 metres. The crown is small but grippy. A flat sapphire crystalprotects the dial and the internal anti-reflective coating does a good job of minimising reflections. The screw-down caseback is solid and has a nice geometric pattern engraved into the central section. Around the perimeter you have the brand name, ‘designed in England’, WR rating and movement used (this text is an update to my prototype).

The case is cut straight across between the lugs, something which I find contributes to making a watch a strap monster, and that’s certainly true here. Mind you, you probably won’t want to swap out the quick-release rubber strap that comes with the watch. It’s the perfect thickness and tapers from 20mm down to 18mm. It’s pliable, comfortable and has a nice bead-blasted signed pin buckle. The strap is embossed with a crosshatch pattern to the top side and has two floating keepers. Flip the rubber strap over and you’ll notice another little design feature; a geometric pattern which ties in nicely with the same pattern found on the solid caseback. My only complaint is that the additional supplied leather strap is just ok. It has a nice matt texture to the top face, but I’d describe the overall quality as average. And it’s black, which is a bit of a dull choice that doesn’t pair particularly well with my colourway. I feel mean complaining about a second ‘free’ strap, but when every other detail has been so well thought out, it just seems like a bit of an oversight. I’d like to see a choice of colours offered at time of ordering. At risk of stating the obvious, a matching blue or orange leather would be lovely. Finally, whilst it’d certainly be a challenge to design a metal bracelet for the Rocket, I’d love to see John have a crack, as I’m sure others would!

The Movement

The movement is a standard Seiko NH38A automatic, a common choice for affordable automatic watches, but when you take what the Rocket offers as a whole package this is more than fine with me. This 4Hz movement ticks at 21,600 VPH giving a reasonably smooth sweep to the seconds hand. The power reserve is 41-hours and you can hack the movement to stop the seconds hand and set a precise time. 

The Dial

Although it’s the case design where this watch really shines, the well-judged dial colour combos are close behind. You can choose from four dial variants, each with a matt, finely grained finish. My review watch is the orange and blue, but the pink looks particularly striking too. 

Working from the outside in, the deep and slanted orange rehaut / chapter ring also has a fine-grain finish and is printed with double Arabic numerals for every five minutes. Inside of the chapter ring is a minute/seconds track printed in white. Where the dial gets interesting is when you realise that it’s of sandwich construction, with the negative space between where the hour indices would usually sit being cut out of the upper dial in curved rectangular strips, so you can see through to the white base layer which is coated in Swiss Super-LumiNova BGW9. The lume looks really cool at night and the combination of sandwich construction with the orange and blue is lovely in the day. 

The hour and minute hands are polished and have a simple baton shape design with very generous strips of Super-LumiNova BGW9 lume running the entire length. The contrasting orange seconds hand is a simple tapering stick and not lumed.

The dial design in uncomplicated and well-balanced with perfect symmetry and no date window to interrupt the flow. There is just enough flair to keep your interest whilst staying true to the overall modernist look. Dial text is minimal and the somewhat ‘80s futuristic’ angular font used for the brand name perfectly suits the case shape.

Final Thoughts on the Ember Rocket

In recent years the microbrand sphere has been bursting at the seams with new brands creating well put together watches that offer great value for money. However, sometimes original design takes a bit of a back seat at the expense of competing purely on price and specs. As a result, enthusiasts are overwhelmed with choice, so much so that it becomes difficult for us to know where to put our money. A nice problem to have, but a problem nonetheless. This is where watches like the Ember Rocket provide a welcome respite. It adds the missing element, fresh design! It’s a striking watch that is instantly recognisable and the bead-blasted finish complements the bright, matt colourways, lifted by just a hint of polish for contrast. It’s contemporary but not minimalist.

I’ve really struggled to come up with negatives for the Rocket. The only real one from my subjective point of view is that the leather strap isn’t up to the quality of everything else and that different coloured leather straps aren’t offered. The fact that this is my only complaint is remarkable.

‘Spec sheet buyers’ may be a little disappointed that the movement is a Seiko NH38A, rather than the higher beat Miyota 9015. However, if you’re like me and buy watches based on the overall package (with a slight bias towards design), that would seem unjust given the price. The only other thing to consider is how well the bead-blasted finish will hold up over time. If you have the funds, I can’t think of a reason not to splash your hard-earned spondulicks on one!

My only other negative relates to the ordering process, not the watch itself. Delivery of production watches is expected to be Summer 2025. Bearing in mind the Kickstarter campaign launches August 2024, this is a long time for customers to wait for their watches. However, provided you’ve got patience, and that the Kickstarter process is handled well and customer service is good, the Rocket is a textbook example of how to bring out your first watch.

At the regular retail price of £395, the Ember Rocket is worth every penny. At the Kickstarter launch price of £296 the value on offer is insane. So, get a comfy seat on that early-bird train, sit back and wait for the package to drop on your doorstep. I defy you to be disappointed! I loved this watch so much that I’ve put my name down for one already. I just can’t decide between the blue and orange or pink! Which is your favourite?

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Akerfalk is a microbrand from Sweden that heavily emphasizes Scandinavian minimalism in its designs. Priced at roughly $411 USD (£299), the Chronograph Panda features a Seiko VK-64 Meca Quartz movement, 24-hour subdial, and a 1-hour chronograph. Available in four colorways, the Panda is the only one to come with a mesh steel bracelet.

The Panda is made well, with no obvious blemishes on the dial, case, or caseback. The Panda colorway is safe and reserved; fans of the aesthetic will appreciate the simplicity of both the style and movement. However, if you want something more daring, you’ll want the Lake or Forrest colourways, which add a bold dose of colour to the dial.

Akerfalk has been in the space for several years now and offers free global shipping and a 2-year warranty. For those seeking a minimal piece with a mechanical chronograph, Akerfalk’s chrono is a good, albeit a touch pricey, option.

Scoring

• Design & Style: 4
• Performance: 4
• Build Quality: 4
• Value for Money: 3.75

Pros

• Good dial legibility day or night
• Strong lume
• Classic Panda aesthetic is done well

Cons

• $400 for a Mecha Quartz and K1 mineral crystal
• Mediocre water resistance

Full Review

Five years ago, we reviewed Akerfalk’s First Season, their inaugural entry into the world of minimalistic microbrand watches. Like the Chronograph we are reviewing today, the First Season was a Swedish take on contemporary minimalism.

In their design of the First Season, Akerfalk used a silver/gold color scheme for hands, along with a 24-hour dial configuration, establishing a clear brand aesthetic that they carried forward into their follow-up model, the Second Season. 

Unlike the First and Second models, the Chronograph’s dial is in the more common 12-hour configuration, with a small 24-hour subdial at the 3 o’clock position. But the hour and minute hands are still silver and gold, respectively, with a strip of lume embedded in their centre.

Available in four colourways – standard, Forrest, Lake, and Panda – Akerfalk’s Chronograph is a minimal take on sporty watches, with the Panda colorway the most sport of all of them.

Akerfalk provided me this watch at no-cost in December, 2023 for this review. I do not have a financial relationship with Akerfalk. To date, I have reviewed more than 200 watches; my personal collection sits at 44 timepieces (including several from when I went down the vintage Seiko and Timex rabbit holes).

Akerfalk Chronograph Panda Specifications

• MSRP: $411 USD / £299
• Where to Buy: Akerfalk.se
• Warranty: 2-year
• Movement: Seiko VK-64 Meca Quartz
• Diameter: 42 mm
• Crystal: Domed K1 mineral
• Water Resistance: 50 meters / 165 feet
• Colorways: 4 colorways
• Complications: 24-hour dial, 1-hour mechanical chronograph

Design

The Panda aesthetic can be hit or miss wherever it is used, and thankfully, it’s a hit here. Akerfalk has spent the better part of a decade making minimal work, and it looks good when deployed on this 42 mm chronograph.

Using a 42 mm case helps space the dial out, with a black outer ring contrasting against the light inner dial, printed hour markers, and black subdials.

Per the Panda profile, the use of colour is limited, and in this case, the chrono’s seconds hand, 24-hour subdial’s hand, and the chrono start/stop pusher are given the orange treatment, while the minute hand is a subtle gold.

The ample use of steel, black, and grey tones helps the orange stand out, but at a distance you’ll hardly notice since the orange tone is relatively light. This is especially true for the second hand, which can get lost against the light dial. This is a chronograph that leans more heavily towards form over function, but telling time is easy enough, and even easier if you give it more than a passing glance.

Low-light visibility is surprisingly good, with strong lume on the hour and minute hands as well as the 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock hour markers.

As good as the Panda colourway looks, though, my pick of the bunch is definitely the Lake variant, where the orange hands pop off the blue-green dial.

On the Wrist

A 42 mm case is about the largest I can get away with, and the slim profile of the lugs and appropriately-sized pushers keep the Chronograph from feeling oversized.

The deployant clasp has a relatively thin profile – thinner than the typical version found on leather straps, at least – and tucks under a long-sleeve shirt easily. Also, I am pleased to report that I have only had a couple of arm-hair-pinching moments since I’ve started wearing the watch (always a risk with a mesh bracelet…)

Case, Crown, Odds, & Ends

The polished case is a safe accompaniment to the dial, and aside from the orange start/stop pusher, there isn’t much about the case to note. It does look handsome with the included steel mesh bracelet (with deployant clasp), though I think that the black leather strap included on the Forrest and Lake colorways would probably sell the racey aesthetic better.

The crown – which is a screw-down crown, by the way – is knurled and easy enough to manipulate. The pushers also engage with a satisfying tactile click when pressed.

But I have to ask: why use a screw-down crown if the intended water resistance is only 50 m / 165 ft? It’s not a bad inclusion, but seems unnecessary given the rest of the watch does not prioritize water resistance.

The steel mesh bracelet with deployant clasp feels robust and not-quite heavy; it is easy to open and close, and feels secure when you’ve clasped it shut. The stainless steel clasp is as good as any other that you’d find at this price point.

I’ve opted to use one of Akerfalk’s images of the caseback in place of my own since polished casebacks like this scratch very easily. One piece of recurring feedback I have for watch brands is that the casebacks can be more interesting than a feature dump.

Akerfalk is going in the right direction with their forest engraving, but they could take it a step further and make the caseback something really interesting! Appreciating that the VK-64 meca quartz movement isn’t anything visually worth writing home about, leaning into the brand’s natural aesthetic in a more significant way would up the wow factor.

Movement & Functions

The Seiko VK-64 Meca Quartz is the mechanical movement made for watch enthusiasts that want their wristwatch to feel like a mechanical watch, but don’t actually want to deal with the downsides of having a mechanical movement.

In the VK-64, a battery and quartz crystal are used to power the actual timekeeping. With a battery life in the 3-5 year range, and with accuracy in the ~15 seconds per day range, you shouldn’t need to adjust the watch too often.

The mechanical portion of the movement exclusively powers the chronograph function, giving the seconds hand a familiar “ticking” motion that we’ve come to associate with mechanical timepieces.

The VK-64 is generally reliable and not a bad choice at this price point.

Conclusion

With a safely minimal design, reliable and low-maintenance movement, and sensible sizing, Akerfalk’s Chronograph is a fine watch for the money.

The Panda’s biggest downside is that it’s too safe, too minimal, and one of many that took Marie Kondo’s lessons to heart when designing their dials. Even with Akerfalk’s signature silver/gold hand combination, the Panda is unlikely to stick with you. But, if that’s what you want your wristwatch to be, the Lake and Forrest colorways offer the same minimal aesthetic, but in a much more striking colour combination.

You can get yours directly from Akerfalk here.

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The Case and Wearing Experience

The case and bracelet are made from 316L stainless steel and surface hardened to 800 Vickers, which should help stave off scratches for longer. The case diameter is 39.5mm, the lug-to-lug measurement is 47.5mm and the overall thickness is 11.2mm. I’d describe the mid-case as somewhere half-way between a regular round case and a rounded square, or ‘squirlcle’. It’s mostly brushed but features polished chamfers to the top and bottom edges and a cut-out for the partially recessed 6.5mm push-pull crown at 3 o’clock. The crown features an engraving of the Pedral logo, is well-proportioned, grippy and operates with confidence. 

The bezel is shaped like an offset squircle, with the ‘corners’ being at 12, 3, 6 and 9. The sides of the bezel are polished and the top face is vertically brushed. The sapphire crystal is flat with an anti-reflective coating and sits ever so slightly proud of the bezel.

Moving to the rear, we find a screw-down exhibition caseback which features circular brushing with engraved specifications and polished chamfered sides. Water resistance is as much as most people will ever need, at 100m. 

The case flows seamlessly into the stubby, downturned lugs and attractive integrated three-link bracelet. The bracelet is predominantly brushed and tapers from 22.5mm at the watch head, down to 18mm at the clasp.  The centre links feature polished chamfers to the top and bottom sides on the facing edge, and the outer links are chamfered to three edges. Removable links are attached by push-pins, and completing the bracelet is a twin trigger, butterfly-style clasp for a seamless look. The finishing is refined and comfort is generally good, but there are a couple of things to note. Firstly, there is no micro adjustment (although a clasp upgrade is one of the Kickstarter stretch goals). Secondly, there are no half links, so although the links are reasonably short, it’ll be a game of chance as to whether you can achieve the perfect fit. Also, I had issues with the articulation on the links on my review watch, which frequently got ‘stuck’ into position on numerous occasions. However, Kevin from Pedral has already confirmed to me that he’s working on resolving this issue for the production models. 

The watch sits well on the wrist and the dimensions are pretty versatile. It’s nice and slim and there is minimal protrusion from the caseback. Due to the Artefact’s quirky shape, it’s difficult to give an exact comparison in terms of the wearing experience, but I’d say it wears about the same as a similarly sized round watch. 

The Dial and Hands

Mimicking the bezel, the dial is a squircle shape tilted to 45 degrees, so it’s orientated more like a diamond. Maybe this makes it a Dircle? (answers on a postcard please!).

The dial is of a dual-layer construction. The centre section is stamped with a radial guilloché pattern which emanates from the pinion and increases in size towards the outer perimeter of the bottom layer of the dial. The upper/outer layer is radially brushed with railroad-style minute track. This is also where you’ll find the applied indices, which comprise short batons and Arabic numerals for the 12, 3, 6 and 9. 

At first glance you’d think the polished hour and minute hands are simple fence-post hands with a crease to the centre, but look closer and a unique detail is revealed. The tips feature skeletonised versions of the Pedral logo. It’s always nice to be rewarded with little ‘easter eggs’ as you get to know a watch, and I don’t think I’ve seen this kind of bespoke detail on a Microbrand watch before. The seconds hand is a simple baton style with a spear-shaped lumed tip. The indices and hands all feature blue Swiss BGW9 Super Lumi-Nova for enhanced legibility in low light. 

Whilst I love the combination of sunburst and guilloché textures on the dial, I still feel like the silver dial variant could do with a touch more contrast. It would have been nice to see more facets on the indices for enhanced light play or maybe a blued seconds hand or touch of colour on the perimeter markings; just something to lift it from being a sea of silver. To be fair to Pedral though, this a common complaint of mine for silver dialled watches from many brands. 

The Movement

As we’ve come to expect from microbrands at this price point, the typical options come from either Seiko or Citizen. Here we have the Miyota 9039 from Citizen. This is a premium Japanese movement which is ultra-reliable, has hacking seconds and a smooth sweep to the seconds hand thanks to the 28,600VPH beat rate.Accuracy is -10/+30 seconds per day and the power reserve is approx. 40 hours. The movement is visible through the exhibition caseback and the rotor has been customised with the Pedral branding. 

Final Thoughts

The Pedral Artefact is a mixed bag for me. I certainly see a lot of potential, but the microbrand watch market is hot right now and at the full retail price of €639 the Artefact is up against some stiff competition, and in all honesty, there are better options out there in terms of quality and execution. However, it’s safe to say that you’d be hard pushed to find something as unique as the Pedral, and once you factor in the Kickstarter prices I’m sure the Artefact will find its audience. I personally think that the somewhat surreal design lends itself more to bright dual-colour dials such as the Purple and Green or Navy Blue and Orange Dial. It’s a shame therefore that these colours will only be available as stretch goals, as I think they would have been the quickest to sell out. 

Whether this watch is right for you will ultimately boil down to how much you connect with the polarising design language and what Kevin is trying to accomplish here. This is a watch for mavericks or collectors looking to inject some fun into their collection. If that sounds like you, the Artefact is surely worth considering, especially at the Kickstarter price of €299! 

As regular readers will know, I always admire a brand trying to do things differently, so hats-off to Kevin for going his own way. I love the direction that Pedral watches is going in and I’ll closely follow the brands journey as the design language is charming, baffling and intriguing all at the same time. If you’re wearing a Pedral watch, you can be sure it will be a talking point, even in a room full of non-watch nerds and that can only be a good thing. 

Kevin is well-aware that the Artefact is never going to be a mass market watch, but it doesn’t need to be. People who love Marmite really love Marmite. Lovers of the iconic, sticky brown yeasty goo will rave about it till the cows come home. Others will taste it once and never let it darken their lips again. I think it’s the same here with the Artefact! So, I guess it boils down to you. Do you like Marmite?! Let us know in the comments below!

The post Hands on with the Unconventional Pedral Artefact!   appeared first on 12&60.

After working in the industry for several years, brand founder Ben has branched out on his own, driven by a desire to create a watch born out of his obsession with watch sizing, an aspect that he says can make or break a timepiece. So, we’re off to a good start, as he certainly has a kindred spirit in me on that front. The second thing that’s influenced Ben’s design decisions for his first watch was his grandfathers’ love for rectangular watches, which he has inherited. 

The Scarifour is named after Ben’s childhood home and combines timeless looks with a slight nod to the 70s. There’s plenty of choice on offer too. The Scarifour comes in six different dial colours (Orange Sunrise, Smoked Black, Ice Blue, Blue Hour, Classic Silver, Royal Purple), and you can choose between two movements. The more affordable Swiss Ronda 762 quartz movement will launch at £266, whereas the premium manual-wind Sellita SW210-B mechanical movement will be priced at £460. Prices will rise to £380 and £660 respectively once the Kickstarter campaign ends.

The Case, Bracelet and Wearing Experience

If comfort is high on your list of priorities when looking for your next watch, the Scarifour is sure to please you. The case width is 31mm, and the lug-to-lug is just 40mm, increasing to 47mm if you include the non-articulating end links. However, the end links are significantly downturned, so the true perception of the lug-to-lug measurement is more akin something around 44mm. Perhaps even more important is overall thickness (or lack of it) and the Scarifour excels here too, measuring just 8.3mm. The Scarifour is classically proportioned, but never looks dainty, thanks in part to the integrated bracelet design and broad bracelet width of 22mm at the watch head. This could easily be a watch for sharing due to its versatile size.

The case and bracelet offer a nice mix of brushed and high-polish elements, with the polish being in all the right places. What I mean by this is that, bezel aside, high-wear areas such as the tops of the lugs and sides of the mid-case are brushed, but polished bevels flank the mid-case top and bottom, which provide contrast and add a touch of sophistication. The bezel itself is slim and features two debossed circles on each side, somewhat mimicking the functional bezel screws that you’d find on Cartier watches. I would have liked to see these either made bigger to look more purposeful or left out altogether. A custom-shaped, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal helps protect the dial and has an anti-reflective coating.

At a glance the bracelet looks like a three-link design, but it actually comprises single links alternating between H-links and polished ‘connecting’ oval links. It’s a beautiful design and the short links ensure fluidity and class-leading comfort. Each individual H-link is brushed to the top, bottom and outer edges, but bevelled to every side. Not only that, but the inner edges adjacent to the connecting polished oval links are polished, providing additional light play with wrist movement.

The bracelet tapers to 18mm at the clasp and each bracelet link is secured by a pin and collar system. The ‘signed’ milled clasp features a raised, brushed centre section with branding and polished outers. The choice of clasp will probably be controversial as it’s more akin to a diver’s-style with a compact, single-foldover, twin-trigger release system and three holes of micro-adjustment. Some will love it for its ease of adjustment. Others will have hoped for a traditional butterfly-style clasp more befitting of a dress watch. Maybe a choice of clasp could be offered as a stretch goal for Kickstarter?!

The slim stainless steel caseback is brushed horizontally, secured by hex screws at each corner, and engraved with branding and key specifications. The push-pull 7-sided crown doesn’t look like it should be easy to grip, but it’s actually surprisingly easy to use for winding or adjusting the time. The brand’s insignia is embossed onto the side of the crown. Water resistance is 50 metres.

The Swiss Movements

Buyers can choose between two Swiss-made movements; the ultra-reliable Sellita SW210-b or the Ronda 762 quartz. The Standard Grade Sellita is a hand-wound mechanical movement which is visible though an exhibition caseback. This attractive but largely undecorated movement has 19 jewels, beats at 28,600 vph / 4Hz, and has a power reserve of approx. 42 hours. Accuracy is rated at +/- 30 seconds per day. The more affordable quartz version has a 10-year battery life and comes fitted with a solid caseback. The accuracy is rated to -10/+20 seconds per month.

The Heraldry Dial

The Ice Blue dial features a chevron pattern that is inspired by the heraldry of Ben’s hometown of Cheltenham (it’s found on the Cheltenham Coat of Arms). The dial surface is also horizontally brushed. It’s a different take on a dial pattern and works successfully with the rectangular dial shape. However, the dial finish is a bit too metallic and shiny for my liking, or at least it is on my light blue variant.

A simple printed minute track, with circles of lume for hours, surrounds the dial on a slightly raised perimeter. Baton-shaped applied indices are placed at every hour marker except the 12 o’clock, which features Roman numerals. Each index has polished, angled sides and brushed tops. This contrasting finishes looks great and helps with legibility. However, whilst legibility is decent for a dress watch, I think it could probably be improved a little more by increasing the size of the batons by a smidgen or applying a stronger application of anti-reflective coating on the sapphire crystal.

The petite ‘Alpha’ hands were chosen to complement the angular nature of the case and their beauty can only truly be appreciated by getting them under a loupe. They are visually split into three sections. The centre section is longitudinally brushed and features small strips of Swiss BGW9 Super Lumi-Nova luminescent compound to help aid low-light legibility. This is flanked by polished, angled outers. The hands culminate in razor sharp points. It’s also really nice to see a capped pinion; a lovely finishing touch that, quite frankly, all watch brands should adopt.

Dial text is kept nice and simple. Just ‘Benjamin James’ and ‘Scarifour’ are printed in black and sit either side of the pinion at 12 and 6 respectively. The font size is tiny though and barely readable (and yes, I did have my glasses on!). Whilst I realise that it’s a difficult balancing act, especially with a long brand name and fairly narrow dial, there must be some way of tackling this. If the size of the printing can’t be increased due to breaching the 11 and 1 confines, maybe the brand name could be split over two lines, redesigned or just picked out in relief/applied for more three-dimensional visibility. Doing so would also help with brand awareness. However, we must remember that this is a dress watch, so ultimate legibility isn’t usually high on the list of priorities when buying a watch such as the Scarifour.

Final Thoughts

The Scarifour is a brave debut release. Why? Simply because dress watches sell far less than dive watches or sports watches. Most brands launch with a sports watch for a reason; they know that there is a persistent appetite among the general public and watch enthusiasts for that kind of watch. Conversely, dress watches are more niche and so it takes a single-minded person like Ben, with a passion for putting a modern spin on vintage style and elegance, to stick their neck out and take on the associated risk. It’s not that dress watches aren’t catered for at all by microbrands, but it’s certainly uncommon to launch with a dress watch. I’m sure the somewhat forgotten minority will welcome the Benjamin James brand into the fold, and there’s a good chance that people who wouldn’t normally think of buying a dress watch may be persuaded over to the dark side too! approach

For me, where the Scarifour really shines is in its case and bracelet. The design is unified and there is a great mix of finishes on show. The watch’s proportions also make it one of the most comfortable watches I’ve ever tried; you honestly barely even notice you’re wearing it. It does most things a dress watch should do very well; it’s refined, looks good, slips under a cuff easily, and whispers rather than shouts.

There are only a few things to take into consideration when deciding whether to buy the Scarifour. If legibility is high on your list of priorities, or your eyesight isn’t what it once was, I’d probably opt for a colour other than light blue or silver, so that there is more contrast on the dial. The logo also needs pimping up somehow to make it more legible as it looks a bit lost on the dial. Finally on legibility, I’d like to see a stronger application of anti-reflective coating applied to the sapphire crystal. In terms of design, it’d be nice to see the outer edges of the applied baton indices cut at an angle parallel to the dial edges. I’d also either do away with the ‘fake’ screw design or make them bigger and/or functional. Finally, you need to decide which side of the fence you sit on regarding the clasp. Do you like the wearability that the adjustable clasp brings, or do you hanker for a butterfly-style clasp on a dress watch?

Most people will be able to find a watch in the Scarifour collection to suit their style and budget thanks to the vast array of different dial colours available and option to choose the movement. The manual-wind option will keep the mechanical purists happy whilst not adding any thickness to the case. The quartz option will appeal to those looking to keep costs down and want the grab-and-go sensibility that it brings. However, even quartz-phobic watch nerds shouldn’t dismiss the quartz version as I think there is a case to be made for it here. Being a dress watch, the need for precise timing will rarely be a thing. Plus, one of the main reasons cited for buying mechanical is that people love to watch the sweep seconds hand glide around the dial. With the Scarifour there is no seconds hand, so it makes no difference which version you buy on that front!

If you get in quick at the Kickstarter launch prices of £266 for quartz and £460 for the Sellita manual-wind), there isn’t much competition to be honest. In fact, I’d be hard-pressed to come up with alternative rectangular watches that are this slim and have Swiss movements. However, once the Kickstarter is over and full retail prices kick in, the stiffest competition for the Scarifour Hand-wound will come from the likes of the MAEN Manhattan 37 or 39 (€680 and £1000 respectively). Whereas competition for the quartz version competition will come from brands like Second Hour (£330) and Vario (£344). However, even then, the Scarifour is a worthy contender. Plus, it will be significantly cheaper for UK buyers who are often put off by frankly extortionate customs and excise costs when buying watches from outside the UK.

With the Scarifour, Benjamin James set out to make a unique but timeless modern rectangular watch that balances restrained proportions with comfort and wrist presence. I think he’s achieved his goal!

The post Hands-on with the Scarifour – a refreshing debut watch from Benjamin James appeared first on 12&60.

Overview of the UBIQ DUAL Series 01

Every aspect of the DUAL (bar the movement) is designed in-house at UBIQ headquarters in Singapore. At the time of launch five colour options are available, all injected with colour and personality. Each colour is limited to just 100 pieces and has been assigned a suitably fun name. My review watch is the Applesour, with a dual-tone green bezel over a warm grey dial. You can also choose from Beetred (purple and silver bezel with red accents over a Purple dial), Bumble (black and yellow bezel over a Black dial), Navysilver – (silver and navy bezel over an off-white dial with yellow highlights, Seaset (teal and orange bezel over a teal dial). Aside from colour, the design is the same across all five. UBIQ’s Kickstarter campaign is already underway and the DUAL series 1 is price at $519 USD. This figure will increase to $649 after the Kickstarter campaign ends on 8 March 2024. The warranty is two years, and each watch comes with a stainless steel bracelet and additional FKM strap inside a custom-crafted coloured pouch. 

The Case and Wearing Experience

The 316L stainless steel case is a crowd-pleasing 39mm diameter, with a lug-to-lug measurement of 47mm and an overall thickness of 11.8mm on my prototype watch. UBIQ has since managed to slim down the case even more and all production models will be just 11.5mm thick, including sapphire!

A mix of finishes is used for the case and bracelet. When viewed from top down, the case is visually nearly all lugs. The slim lugs and caseback feature circular brushing, whilst the case sides are sandblasted and recessed, flanked top and bottom by two lovely, wide, polished chamfers. These give the watch a lovely side profile and provide some distinction. What’s not immediately apparent is that the lugs have a lovely additional design flourish; small sculptured, sandblasted cut-outs where they meet the case, kind of like a reduced take on the Omega twisted lugs. Now that’s attention to detail with your finishing! Finally, the case is vertically brushed between the lugs, which you only see when the strap is removed. The end links are an extremely good fit to the watch and when you run your fingers over the join, it’s almost imperceivable.

The flat link bracelet is longitudinally brushed with polished sides and wide chamfers on the upper clasp. Although it has the appearance of a three-link design, each link is one solid piece. However, the bracelet is good quality and tapers down from 20mm to 16mm, so it’s comfy too. Thankfully, it’s also quick-release so even those new to watches can easily swap the bracelet out for the excellent, and very pliable, supplied colour-matched FKM rubber strap to give the watch a completely different look. No tools required! Another plus in my book, is that the bracelet links are secured by single-sided screws. Finally, the clasp is signed and has five micro-adjustment holes to help achieve the perfect fit.

The dual time bi-directional bezel with matt aluminium insert is where the colour pop begins. The bezel inset is split into two. The outer segment is a dark green and printed with a 12-hour scale for help tracking a second time zone, whilst the inner segment is a lighter green and printed with Arabic numerals at every 10, in the manner of a traditional dive watch countdown bezel. Alternate hour markers on the bezel have lines leading to the main dial indices for easy reference. An oversized 12 o’clock triangle in golden yellow completes the picture and aids orientation at night. All bezel markings have a green C1 luminescent compound applied. The bezel itself has a polished u-shaped coin edge (a nod to the U of UBIQ) for easy grip, and I’d describe the rotating bezel as solid. Being a 60-click bezel there is nowhere to hide with alignment, but I’m glad to say that the bezel on my review watch lined up perfectly.

The flat sapphire which has a rounded edge and sits slightly proud of the case, and has an effective anti-reflective coating applied to the inside. The polished 6mm crown bears the UBIQ ‘U’ logo within a contrasting bead-blasted relief. It’s well-proportioned, engages positively and is easy to turn thanks to the u-shaped knurling which mimics the bezel. Being screw-down it also helps the DUAL achieve its 200m water resistance rating.

The stainless steel screwdown caseback simply features engraved typography which lists the essential info (brand, model name, automatic, designed in Singapore, and xxx/100). This info sits within a squared circle border, which carries over the design language used throughout the DUAL.

I’d say the watch wears ever so slightly bigger than the 39mm diameter and 47mm lug-to-ug would suggest. Why? Although the case sits close to the wrist due to its very slim caseback, the profile of the case and lugs is almost completely flat, with just the tinniest hint of curvature (almost imperceivable), so I can’t say it hugs the wrist.

UBIQ has said it will smoothen the case profile chamfers for production models. I can only assume this means that the very bottom edge of the case sides will be smoothed off slightly so the case feels smoother against the skin, as I couldn’t see any other need for improving the chamfers. Other improvements that will be made to production watches include polished finishing to the crown edge, improved QC on the bezel printing and shortening the female end link to decrease gap. Again, I couldn’t see any major issues with any of these things, so the fact that UBIQ are making these improvements is testament to their high standards.

Dial and Hands That Pop!

The Applesour sits somewhere between the vibrancy of the Seaset and the comparatively subdued Navysilver colourway.

The dial is deliciously simple on the face of it, but like everything on this watch, it’s clearly been thought about. The dial itself is a lovely warm grey colour, which reminds me a lot of the ‘taupe’ dial found on the Tudor Black Bay 58 925. On the outer edge of the dial is a minute track printed white on black, with no fractions of seconds, keeping with the ethos of clean design. The hash marks at the five minute/hour markers are extended and lead the eye to meet the oversized polished ‘inflated square’ applied hour markers, with blue BGW9 lume.

Rounded rectangles are used for the 3, 9, and 12, and at six sits one of the best executions of a date window I’ve ever seen. At first glance it just looks like another index as it features the same frame design as the other indices, and it doesn’t break the radial alignment. What’s more, because the main indices are pure white in colour, the black on white doesn’t break the colour continuity either. Very clever. Even the date-haters will struggle to complain about this one!

The custom hour hand has a surround that’s colour-matched to inner bezel and filled with C1 lume. The arrow-tipped minute hand has a polished silver-coloured surround, and the lollipop-style seconds hand has a green tip and framed lume pip which glides directly over the hour markers.

I love the dial execution. The applied indices are tall and help bring considerable depth to the face of the watch and the AR sapphire copes well with reflections. Add in crisp, clear bright-white lume and it all comes together to bring great legibility and freshness to the face of the watch.

The lume design is also appealing, but whilst initially the brightness is good, it does fade quite quickly. However, UBIQ will be upgrading all lume to Grade A set for production models. UBIQ will also be improving the quality of the date printing on production models.

Finally dial text is kept simple, with just the brand name, model name and water resistance rating being printed in white.

The Movement

The UBIQ DUAL Series 1 is fitted with the Miyota 9015 movement, which is probably my favourite of all the affordable movements typically fitted to microbrand watches. It’s nothing exceptional but is extremely reliable and reasonably accurate (within -10/+30 sec per day). This movement beats at 28,800bph so the sweep is smooth and the power reserve is 42 hours. UBIQ have fitted a customised date wheel, and the seconds also hack, so you can stop the movement and precisely set the time to a reference time.

Final Thoughts

The UBIQ DUAL Series 01 is a breath of fresh air, with a very appealing design and a perfect suite of colour palettes. The whole package is so well conceptualised and executed even down to the packaging and it puts a lot of big names brands to shame.

I’ve been so impressed with the DUAL that I’m going to break with tradition here and get the negatives out the way first. Try as I might, the truth it’s proved difficult to come up with much of any significance especially when you consider the £400 asking price and the list of improvements that UBIQ has already promised for the production models. So it boils down to just two things for me. No case curvature, and no on-the-fly toolless bracelet adjustment. That’s it! By the time you read this an on-the-fly micro adjustment might even be included, as it’s a stretch goal. I’m sure some people may have preferred a ceramic bezel for extra durability, but you need to remember the DUAL isn’t really marketed as a full on ‘ready for battle’ watch, or even a dive watch, despite it’s 200m water resistance and rotating bezel. Plus, it would be a huge technical challenge to achieve a dual-coloured ceramic bezel.

I really appreciate great design and thoughtful details, and this watch hits all criteria on that front. You can absolutely tell that founder Drayson is a Creative Director! This versatile watch has great specifications, is a crowd-pleasing size and puts fun front-and-centre with its fresh, unique design. All-in-all it’s one of the most ‘complete’ debut watches I’ve reviewed to date, and it most certainly will not leave a sour taste in your mouth!

If you like what you see, I wouldn’t hang around as I think these will prove to be very popular. And remember there is just 100 of each colour available!

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Golby Watches is owned by Craig Golby, a midlands-based UK watch enthusiast and ETSY watch strap retailer who has taken the brave step of launching the Aquareef, a 41mm dive watch aimed firmly at the budget end of the microbrand spectrum. Craig is very open and transparent about the influences. He is a Christopher Ward fanatic and a regular of the Christopher Ward Enthusiasts Facebook Group, so it’s understandable that the Aquareef’s wave pattern dial is influenced by the earlier Christopher Ward dive watches that he loves. But whilst Christopher Ward has continued to move upmarket, the Aquareef rolls back the clock to where CW began and aims to offer the same affordability and value for money of these early watches.

Six Colourways to Place Your Hands On!

There are six colour variants of the Aquareef Dual Timer to choose from, said to be inspired by the UK coastline. Three feature white outer rotating dive bezels with colour-matched inner 12-hour bezels/chapter rings and hands (orange, teal or navy), and three feature black outer rotating bezels with colour-matched inner bezels and hands (orange, teal or yellow).  My review watch is the black dial with orange chapter ring.  Incidentally, the origins of the name Aquareef isn’t as obvious as you first think (well, only one half is!). It comes from Craig’s love of all things water (the aqua part), but get this, the ‘reef’ part comes from his love of the 90s English rock band, Reef, most famous for their hit ‘Place Your Hands’. ! Bet you didn’t see that one coming!

The Case and Wearing Experience

The Aquareef’s 316L stainless steel case is entirely brushed and measures 41mm in diameter (42mm including the bezel) and has a lug-to-lug of 50.5mm. Overall thickness is 13.1mm, not slim but perfectly reasonable for a dive style watch. The true lug-to-lug measurement on my prototype review watch is slightly longer at 54mm, due to the non-articulating male end links. The male end links also cause the outer sections of the second row of bracelet links to protrude from the lines. However, don’t let this put you off as Golby watches have already taken this feedback onboard and production watches will all come with female end links. This will not only look better but will add to the comfort factor and ensure that more wrist sizes can be accommodated. In all honesty though, I’d still say this watch is still most likely to appeal to those with medium to large wrists.

The case shape is simple, with no bevelling or polished elements, but the mid-case is vertically brushed, which is a nice touch. The case is curved between the lugs and the lugs are brushed longitudinally and have a slight downturn. Unlike most watches there are two crowns. The main screw-down crown used for adjusting and setting the time sits at 3 o’clock and is signed with the Golby ‘G’, whilst the 2 o’clock crown adjusts the colourful internal bezel.

The uni-directional outer diving bezel overhangs the case slightly allowing for easy grip when setting the countdown. On my prototype watch the bezel has 90 clicks, which is a bit puzzling. However, production watches will have a more conventional and useful 120 clicks, for precise operation and alignment. The bezel features a uniform coin edge and a tough ceramic insert with gloss finish, another great addition at this price point and something that will help the watch look good for longer. A conventional mix of numbers and hash marks are engraved into the ceramic insert. Bezel action is good but should be improved further with the addition of the new, more refined, 120-click bezel. 

Being a compressor-style dive watch, the Aquareef is a sort of hybrid between a dive watch and a GMT. One of the most noticeable differences of the Aquareef when compared to a true compressor dive watch is that the typical countdown scale found on the coloured rotating chapter ring is replaced with a 12-hour scale. The second crown, positioned at the 2 o’clock position is used for turning this ‘clickless’ inner bezel, which is used to help track a second time zone. This second crown doesn’t screw down, but the watch does still provide a reasonable 100m of water resistance, so it’ll be fine for swimming and skin diving, which let’s face it is all that most dive watch owners will ever do.

The three-link oyster style bracelet has fitted end links to perfectly match the contour of the case between the lugs. Links are secured by push pins and the strap can be quickly removed and changed thanks to the quick-release spring bars. A nice surprise, and something that’s not expected at this price is the inclusion of a rapid-adjust clasp. The clasp has several micro-adjustments slots, allowing ample range for making on-the-fly adjustments to ensure the perfect fit for your wrist. No tools required! Whilst on-the-fly adjustment is not uncommon now, at this price this is a wonderful addition. The clasp is also impressive in its design, being low profile, especially at the safety-lock clasp end. The adjustment mechanism works very well indeed. And run your finger over the safety clasp and you’ll quickly realise that it sits completely flush with the main body of the clasp, so much so that it’s virtually imperceivable, lovely! The only slight negative here is that the edges on the top part of the clasp would benefit from being smoothed off a bit more. However, again, Craig at Golby Watches has confirmed that this is being improved for the production models.

Case and bracelet finishing is generally excellent though, with consistent fine brushing and good tolerances. Dive watch purists might make an argument to forgo the exhibition caseback for a solid stainless steel one (which may also help reduce the case’s overall thickness), but then others will appreciate seeing the movement, so this is purely down to personal preference.

The Dial

The dial is an interesting mix of styles, some successful and some less so. As mentioned in my introduction, the main dial features an oil pressed wave pattern. This is paired with a wide and deep, slanted chapter ring which rotates and is printed in black with a 12-hour scale, comprising Arabic numerals for the hours and simple hash marks for the increments between. This inner rotating bezel is used to help track a second time zone. It has a metallic sheen and is operated by the crown at the 2 o’clock position. I think legibility here could be improved by using a larger font (Golby Watches has since confirmed that the Arabic numbers will be made ever so slightly larger on production models). However, in addition to this I’d also consider printing in white for more contrast and doing away with the incremental hash markers altogether.

The only applied dial furniture is the main hour indices, which are simple gun metal grey batons with strips of RT9 luminescent compound to help aid legibility in low light. Minute markers and micro-markers on the main dial are printed white on black or black on white, depending on which colourway you choose. Dial text comprises the Golby logo at 12, ‘limited edition’ either side of the 12 o’clock marker. Aquareef is printed in same colour as the chapter ring, and ‘Automatic’, ‘10ATM Water Resistant’ is printed above the 6. The framed date window, positioned at 3 o’clock, is colour-matched to the dial, another lovely touch and something that is often overlooked when designing budget-friendly watches.

I don’t think the Golby logo will be to everyone’s taste, me included. I’m not sure why, but for some reason I don’t think ‘boxed-in’ logos work particularly well on watches. However, with this being Golby’s inaugural watch, I don’t think it’d be too late to change this ahead of any further releases. Purists might not like the decision to go with a 12-hour inner GMT bezel or may prefer a 24-hour internal bezel, but for others it will be a useful addition that provides more functionality, after all you’ve still got the dive bezel as well!

I’m a big fan of a large handset on a dive watch, so the Aquareef’s oversized sword-style hands, which are also the perfect length, are welcome here. They feature colourful painted frames, colour matched to the chapter ring and have wide strips of RT9 luminescent compound. I’d not heard of this compound before and had to ask Craig about it. It turns out that it’s a Japanese compound which glows blue at night. I’d describe the lume as ‘reasonable’ at night, especially where you need it most, i.e. the hands.  However, to my eyes, in daylight it has a slightly murky greyish appearance rather than a bright, clean, high contrast white. For this reason, I’d probably like to see a different compound used.

The dial is protected by a flat sapphire crystal. My protoype watch didn’t have any anti-reflective coating applied and suffered from quite a lot of glare, but again Craig from Golby is already on the case and all production models will thankfully have five layers of internal anti-reflective coating. Obviously, I can’t pass comment on how effective this will be, but it should certainly help. I can’t help thinking that if improved lume was used and the hour indices were made bigger, it would lift the dial considerably and improve legibility even more.

The Movement

The Aquareef is fitted with a Seiko NH35a automatic movement, a popular choice at this price point due to its reliability and robustness. It has 24 jewels, beats at 21,600 and has a power reserve of 41 hours. Accuracy isn’t this movement’s strong point at -20s/+40s per day, but it’s perfectly adequate and the NH35a is a good solid movement for this watch at this price point and the right choice here, I think.

Final Thoughts

At the Kickstarter price of just £299, or £280 if you’re one of the first 100 backers, the Aquareef is a very solid alternative to mass market watches such as Seiko 5 sports watches or lower-end Orient, whilst offering better specifications and the feel-good factor that comes with supporting a small business. Everything is of a decent quality, and whilst it may not have a fully resolved design language…yet, this is understandable with a first watch and I’m hoping that any future Golby Watches will improve on this.

Of course, no watch at such a competitive price is going to perfect, but by the time customers receive their watches, the most significant negatives will have already been addressed (lack of AR coating to sapphire, bracelet end-links, and number of bezel clicks). Other improvements I’d like to see would be bigger applied hour markers and improved lume. Aside from these, my gripes mostly relate to styling, and of course this is subjective. I’d like to see the main crown moved to the four o’clock position, to bring more symmetry to the case and I’d revise the logo, or at least lose the square ‘containing box’, as I think it cheapens the look of the watch. Other than that, there’s very little to complain about given the very competitive launch price.

Golby Watches owner, Craig is a very straight-forward, honest guy and this is perfectly reflected in his first watch release. There is no pretence here. What the Aquareef lacks in originality and design flair, it gains in being an honest, capable, tough and well-specced watch that should prove to be reliable and all for an incredible price (around the same price as many quartz fashion watches!). And when you put it like that, it’s a no brainer! Who knows, Craig at Golby watches might even consider making further refinements ahead of the delivery of production watches, based on my feedback. If this does happen, the Aquareef 1.1 should be a very interesting proposition indeed, putting it high on the list of top affordable dive-style watches!

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As the name suggests, this is Alkin’s third watch design, although in some ways it could actually be their third and fourth, as the Model Three comprises two styles, a Dual Time and a Diver, based on the same case shape and internals. The key differences are the dial designs, bezel type and colourways.

The GMT comes in three colours, yellow, powder blue and the brushed copper featured here. The diver also comes in three colours, blue, green and my review colour, black. The GMT features a steel 12-hour bezel for tracking a second-time zone, whereas the Diver features a countdown bezel which either matches the dial colour, or in the case of the green, contrasting black bezel.

The Model Three is available for pre-order now, priced at £375, after which the price will increase to £445. Estimated shipping is January 2024.

The Case

The 316L stainless steel case has a diameter of 40.5mm and a lug-to-lug measurement of 48.5mm. Overall thickness is 12.5mm. These are certainly crowd-pleasing dimensions, which provide a good balance between wrist presence and wearability, so the Model Three should look right at home on a wide range of wrist sizes.

The modern, angular three-section case is entirely brushed for a tool watch vibe and features elegant lugs, sharply cut. The bulk of the watch is in the mid-case, which is straight-sided and vertically brushed (from dial-side to caseback). This suits the design of the watch perfectly and helps give the profile a distinctive look. The tops of the lugs feature longitudinal brushing from 12 o’clock to 6 o’clock and the low-profile caseback helps the watch to sit flush on the wrist.

The case is weighty, and it feels and looks precisely engineered. The brushing is carried out to perfection and the transition lines are crisp and precise. The standard here is very high and the perception of quality is far beyond its price point.

The screw-down stainless steel caseback and grippy, well proportioned, screw-down crown help provide an ample 200m water resistance. The caseback has a circular brushed finish and is engraved with the key specifications and model name, including a nod to the brand’s Bristol heritage. The 6.5mm crown sits at the 4 o’clock position, something which I personally love as it means that there’s no chance of it digging into your wrist. The crown is engraved with the brand’s logo, and it engages confidently, winds smoothly and pops out freely.

The 120-click rotating bezel is unidirectional on both the Dual Time and the Diver models. The three Dual Time watches feature a brushed stainless bezel insert with BGW9-filled lume pip at 12 o’clock and laser-etched Arabic numbers denoting hours, which are filled with black paint. Whilst you couldn’t call these watches GMTs, the 12-hour dual-time feature does at least speed up telling the time in a second time zone, although I’m not sure as to the reason why a 24-hour bezel wasn’t used.

The Diver variants have traditional elapsed-time dive bezels with lumed Arabic numerals at 15, 30, 45 minutes, and lumed hash markers for every five minutes between. A black bezel is used for the black and green dials, whereas the blue dial features a matching blue bezel. The brushing on bezel insert of my black Diver prototype was off axis, but Charlie is already on the case and I’ve every confidence that he wouldn’t let a production model be sent out to a customer with such an issue. Bezel alignment on both of my review models was accurate with no backplay, although the bezel action on the GMT felt slightly smoother, more refined and ‘lower-pitched’.

The bracelet

All versions of the Model Three will be supplied with a brushed stainless steel bracelet that tapers nicely from 20mm down to 18mm. It has solid end links and a milled clasp. Adjustment links are secured by single-sided screw pins and there are six-stops of micro adjustment so it’s easy to achieve the perfect fit.

Much like the case, the bracelets on my review watches were engineered beautifully and brushed to perfection. However, on my prototype Diver I did have some issues. The security fold-over catch wouldn’t stay shut under tension from flexing the wrist, and the main outer clasp didn’t want to lock into place either. Whilst these two things combined are significant negatives, I’m sure these are prototype niggles rather than inherent design faults. Charlie at Alkin has been very receptive to my feedback and offered assurance that production watches will be thoroughly inspected as part of quality control process and not released to customers like this.

The only negative for me in terms of bracelet design is that the end links of the bracelet have a slightly soft, rounded finish which is at odds slightly with the sharp geometry of the lugs and case.

The dial

The dial is where the main differences lie between the Dual Time and the Diver, and where each sibling finds its own personality. I feel that the Dual Time is a modern design, whereas the diver has a more vintage-inspired dial. Both versions featured dual-layered dials, but the execution is completely different. On the Dual Time the centre of the dial is cut out purely to add depth and interest to the dial, with the base layer being the same colour and featuring the same vertically brushed finish as the upper layer (the blue and yellow version aren’t brushed). The diver features a sandwich dial construction with the hour markers cut out to reveal the white of the layer beneath.

The hands and applied markers on the Model Three Dual-Time share a ‘stadium shape’ design language, giving the watch a more clean, modern look. The black frames of the hands and applied indices contrast nicely against the dial, and they are filled with Super Lumi-Nova BGW9 which glows strongly at night. The indices also have considerable height which brings a sense of depth to the dial. These factors combine to ensure excellent legibility in any lighting conditions. Dial text is kept nice and simple, with just the brand name above the pinion and ‘Automatic’ below. Attention to detail is evident in a few nice design touches on the dial. Firstly, the outer rounded end of the minute hand perfectly aligns with each index as it passes over. Secondly, the length of the hour hand perfectly reaches the edge of the centre dial cut-out. And lastly, the simple stick minute hand has a lumed lollipop disk, the centre of which perfectly aligns with where the inner and outer dials meet. It’s all very pleasing to the eye, symmetrical and satisfying!

Indices on the Diver are a mix of circular hour markers and larger triangular markers at the 3, 6, 9 and 12 positions. The indices at 3, 6 and 9 are also printed with black Arabic numerals. The Diver has an all-white handset, with an arrow-shaped hour hand, a pointed sword for the minute hand, and a stick seconds hand with circular lume pip. The green dial variant of the Diver features Super Lumi-Nova X1 C3 for hands, indices and bezel markings,whereas the blue and black dials have Super Lumi-Nova BGW9. Again, lume application is consistent and glows brightly, lasting well into the night. Dial text on the diver comprises brand name above the pinion and ‘Automatic, 200m/656ft’ below.

The flat sapphire crystal on both models has an anti-reflective (AR) coating to the underside which does a reasonable, but not exceptional job.

Dial execution is impressive on both variants, with precise printing, well applied/cut-out indices, consistent brushing on the copper dial variant of the Dual Time, and nicely textured upper dial layer on the Divers.

Movement

The Model Three is powered by the Miyota 9039 Japanese automatic movement, from global brand, Citizen. This extremely reliable movement beats at 28,800 vph / 4Hz, which gives a smooth 8 ticks per second, and it’s a close competitor to the Sellita SW200 in all respects bar accuracy, which is within -10s / + 30 seconds per day.

Final Thoughts

The Alkin Model Three offers plenty of choice for buyers, with two core styles and six variants. To my tastes, the design of the diver is more successful when combined with the colourful and playful blue and green dials, which also have contrasting colour accents courtesy of the seconds hand. I feel the black and white is just a little austere for the retro design. However, there will aways be buyers for more conservative dial colours, so I’m not at all surprised that black is offered as an option. The GMT works well in all colourways and I love them all, but if I had to choose, I’d probably pick the brushed copper dial variant.

Provided Alkin can resolve the niggles that were evident with my prototype models, it’s difficult to find much to complain about considering the price point. About the only negative I can find is the end-link design, which I feel could be sharpened up a bit to better match the sharp lines of the case. A nice-to-have would be on-the-fly bracelet adjustment, but it’s certainly not expected at this price point. And I guess some people might like to see quick-release bracelet, but again, as the lugs are drilled this is not really a big negative as strap changes are relatively easy.

The Model Three offers great value for money at the full retail price. At the pre-order price of £375, it’s virtually theft! It’s solidly built, very well-designed, fit and finish is impressive, and it’s comfortable to wear. Add in strong lume and 200m water resistance and you could argue that there’s no need for another watch. However, on the flip-side, although every Model Three shares the same core attributes, the Dual Time and the Diver are sufficiently different that you could have one of each and feel like you’re not wearing the same watch!

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Design and Dial

The PerpetuaL Chronograph C-08 immediately catches the eye with its deep blue dial adorned with a mesmerizing waffle texture. This intricate pattern adds a touch of uniqueness and sophistication to the watch, setting it apart from the crowd. The dial is further elevated by steel applied Roman numeral hour markers and Breguet-style steel hands, both exuding a timeless elegance.

At 3 o’clock, a 30-minute register stands ready to record elapsed time, while a small running seconds hand resides at 9 o’clock, maintaining perfect balance on the dial. One of the most striking design features of the C-08 is the pointer date indicator positioned beneath the 12 o’clock marker—a departure from the ordinary and a testament to PerpetuaL’s commitment to innovative design.

Adding to the watch’s charm, a moonphase indicator graces the 6 o’clock position, imparting a touch of celestial beauty to the ensemble. The overall design is elegant and classy, with the deep blue dial beautifully offset by the polished indices and hands.

Case and Strap

The C-08 features a sensible 41mm diameter case with a thickness of 13mm, making it an excellent choice for a dress watch. The case is fully polished and impeccably finished, showcasing PerpetuaL’s dedication to craftsmanship.

The strap lugs, measuring 20mm in width, seamlessly integrate with the case and allow for easy strap changes. The included deep oak brown leather strap is a highlight in itself—thick and of high quality, with sturdy stitching that signifies its craftsmanship. The standard tang buckle is highly polished to match the case, with the PerpetuaL logo discreetly engraved in the center of the top bar.

Screw-in strap pins with large feature screw heads on either side of the lugs ensure a secure fit and add a touch of robustness to the watch. With a weight of 93g, the C-08 exudes a sense of quality that’s instantly noticeable when worn.

Functionality and Features

The PerpetuaL Chronograph C-08 boasts a respectable 30 meters of water resistance, suitable for daily wear and protection against unexpected splashes. Its detailed push-pull onion-shaped crown, complete with the brand’s logo engraved at the end, is a delightful touch that demonstrates PerpetuaL’s commitment to detail.

The chronograph pushers are precise and reliable, allowing for precise timing without any fuss. An anti-reflective coating on the domed sapphire crystal provides excellent visibility and reduces glare, ensuring that the dial remains easy to read in various lighting conditions.

Behind the transparent caseback, the ST1908 movement reveals its intricate beauty. This hand-wound mechanical chronograph movement may garner mixed reviews for its accuracy and reliability. However, PerpetuaL Watches stands by its performance. Founder Alex reassures customers that, when properly checked, adjusted, and maintained, the ST1908 can be highly performant and durable. This movement features a manual-winding mechanism, a 2-register chronograph with a column wheel, operates at 21,600 beats per hour (BPH), boasts 22 jewels, and offers a generous 48-hour power reserve. While it may not be the most renowned caliber, its beauty and functionality shine through when set up correctly.

Final Thoughts

In conclusion, the PerpetuaL Chronograph C-08 upholds the brand’s tradition of delivering sensational build quality and meticulous attention to detail, all while remaining incredibly affordable. Concerns regarding the ST1908 movement may arise, but in my experience, I have never encountered any issues. Furthermore, PerpetuaL’s rigorous testing ensures that each watch performs at its best.

The C-08 offers a remarkable combination of elegance, functionality, and affordability. With its innovative design features, exquisite craftsmanship, and transparent caseback showcasing the ST1908 movement, this timepiece is a standout in its category. If you are seeking a mechanical chronograph that doesn’t break the bank, you’d be hard-pressed to find a better option than the PerpetuaL Chronograph C-08.

PerpetuaL Watches continues to prove that luxury and affordability can coexist in the world of horology, and the C-08 is yet another testament to their dedication to providing exceptional watches for watch enthusiasts of all backgrounds.

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Overview

The Tsuyosa (Tsuyosa being the Japanese word for ‘strength’) is an integrated sports style watch aimed at the budget conscious. The retail price is £299 and it’s available in a huge array of colours, from the vivid to the understated. It’s a versatile everyday watch that could easily be your only watch. Equally, if you’re a collector, pick a bold colour and you’ll have a fun summer watch from a legendary Japanese brand, which doesn’t break the bank.

Case and Wearing Experience

The 40mm case has an overall thickness of 11.9mm and a lug-to-lug measurement of 45mm. These are certainly crowd-pleasing dimensions, however, it’s worth bearing in mind that the bracelet has ‘male’ end links which aren’t articulated, so this does add slightly to the overall span across the wrist. Generally though, the Tsuyosa is a very comfortable watch to wear.

The mid-section of the case has straight sides and is thin, with much of the overall height taken up by the caseback. This is a trick that watch brands frequently employ to minimise the perceived thickness of the case. When used in moderation this can be a clever move, however I feel Citizen has pushed this concept close to its limit here. This could be either a good thing or a bad thing, depending on how you like your watch to look and wear. I personally found that the watch sits slightly high on the wrist rather than bedding down into it, but this is something that you’ll quickly get used to.

The mid-section of the case has polished sides and chamfered edges to the top which run the entire length of the case including the downturned lugs. The dial-side is brushed, and the bezel is angled and polished. A tough, scratch-resistant flat sapphire crystal protects the dial and has an effective anti-reflective coating. The screw-down caseback comprises a polished stainless steel outer and an exhibition window at its centre.

The three-link bracelet tapers from 22mm to 18mm and combines rounded-top, polished centre links and brushed outer links with polished edges. The engineering tolerances for the bracelet aren’t exactly tight and it’s a bit jangly, but no more so than many watches at this price point. And in all honesty, the flexibility does bring fluidity and probably help somewhat with comfort. The simple, fold-over style stamped clasp bears the Citizen logo and has three micro-adjustment holes to help ensure a good fit. Finally, I can’t help thinking that the rounded links of the bracelet are at odds slightly with the sharp angular design of the lugs.

The push-pull crown is probably my least favourite aspect of the Tsuyosa’s design. I love the placement at the 4 o’clock position, however it’s heavily recessed into the case, so despite a having finger-nail cut-out in the case, it’s still relatively difficult to release the crown, and even more difficult to grab hold of and set the time, or wind. If it’s your only watch this probably won’t be a significant downside, however if you don’t wear it often, resetting the time could become frustrating. Of course, the trade-off is that a heavily recessed 4 o’clock crown certainly helps ensure a comfortable wearing experience!

Water resistance is 50m, which is fine, but given the versatile style of this watch it would have been nice to see a 100m rating for added confidence when using in water. 

Citizen Tsuyosa –  Dial and Hands

This is truly where the magic happens. Citizen have absolutely nailed the colour options available for the Tsuyosa, with something to please everyone. The yellow has proved to be so popular that it’s been difficult for Citizen to keep up with demand. This isn’t surprising as the yellow watches aren’t always easy to get right, but Citizen’s gorgeous, deeply saturated yellow, which leans towards orange end of the spectrum, is perfection. The light blue has also proved popular. However, the green reviewed here is a sleeper and should not be overlooked. The deep, rich emerald green with perfectly executed sunray pattern is honestly stunning in the flesh. Other colour options are more subdued: blue, black and the most recent release, a fumé teal.

The dial layout is simple, but pleasing. Classic baton-shaped applied indices, faceted to three sides, are used for the hour markers, with a double baton at the 12 and 6 o’clock positions   and a date window at 3 o’clock. The minute track is simple with no fractional markers, and printed lume squares denoting the hours. Dial text is simply the brand name and ‘automatic’, refreshingly simple. Whilst it’s inevitable that people will compare the Tsuyosa dial style to the Rolex Oyster Perpetual, it’s worth bearing in mind that this is a widely used design for a reason, it just works!

Only the protruding magnifier for the date interrupts the otherwise unfussy, well-balanced approach. For most people the magnifying ‘cyclops’ will be a love it or hate it thing. I’m actually neither one way or the other on a magnifier per se. However, in this instance I didn’t find the cyclops to all that effective at enhancing the visibility of the date. For this reason, if Citizen ever brought out a no-date version, I’d opt for that!

Date window aside, legibility is truly fantastic on this watch in the daytime and at night. A strong application of Citizen’s proprietary lume ensures that that the baton-shaped hands and indices glow green well into the night. Only the seconds hand isn’t lumed.

The Movement

Flip the watch over, and through the exhibition caseback you’ll see that the Tsuyosa is powered by Citizen’s 8210 automatic movement, which has a power reserve of 40 hours and a beat rate of 21,600 vph (3Hz). You can also hand wind and hack the movement for precise setting of the time. Whilst it’s not a particularly sophisticated or accurate movement, it’s supremely reliable and the perfect choice for a watch at this price point. Citizen has chosen to finish many visible parts of the movement in a gold colour, which provides some interest and contrast to an otherwise plain-looking movement. All in all, you couldn’t really expect any more, given its price point.

Final Thoughts On The Citizen Tsuyosa

Whilst it may sound like I’ve found many shortcomings, in reality some of my negatives are subjective and the rest are minor niggles, especially given the bargain £299 retail price. The Tsuyosa is already proving to be a best seller for Citizen and it’s easy to understand why. With a stunning array of dial colours to choose from, a reliable movement made by Citizen themselves, and a versatile style that will see you right in most situations, its wide appeal is undeniable. Add to that Citizen’s five-year warranty (six if you register your watch online) and the reassurance that buying a high street brand brings, and it’s clear the Tsuyosa is a fantastic value proposition for both watch enthusiasts and mainstream buyers who are looking for their only watch. I could see some collectors buying two or three for the dial colours alone. Initially I was disappointed that I couldn’t get the yellow for review, but having lived with the green for a few weeks now I can say that, in my opinion, it doesn’t play second fiddle to any of the other colours.

Given the popularity of this watch I expect it to remain a staple watch in the Citizen line-up. Therefore, I wouldn’t be surprised to see more colours added in the future. Even at the time of writing, Citizen has released a new fumé version in teal, which is very tempting!

Who knows, maybe we’ll even see an Eco-Drive version down the line?

There are now more integrated bracelet sports watches on the market than you can shake a stick at. However, when you’re looking for an automatic on a tight budget the choice narrows considerably, and for me the Citizen is the best option currently available at this price point from a mainstream brand. Whether that will still be the case in 12 months-time, only time will tell!

The post The Tantalising Citizen Tsuyosa – Strength in Colours! appeared first on 12&60.

Rosenbusch is a company formed in Munich by three friends with a passion for mechanical watches, and founder Eli has a background in architecture and engineering, so we’re off to a promising start. Let’s dig in and take a deep dive into what this watch has to offer…

THE CASE

The style here is ‘refined sports watch’, something suitable for almost any occasion. The three-section 316L stainless steel case has a wonderful mix of alternating finishes and Gerald Genta inspired geometry. The hexagonal bezel very much reminds me of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak with its vertical brushed finish and small, polished screws at the softened corners. However, being six-sided rather than eight-sided actually makes more sense to me as it means that each screw sits precisely in line with alternate hour markers. The sides of the bezel are polished and flare out towards the mid-case.

The mid-case is brushed to the dial side and comprises a longitudinally brushed top section which transitions to a polished bottom section with sides that angle in towards the caseback. The caseback is hexagonal to mimic the bezel design, a nice touch! It’s affixed with small screws and features an engraved maze design with a rose at its centre.  You’ll also find some of the specifications engraved on the caseback, including reference to the ample 10ATM (100M) water resistance rating.

The integrated lugs angle down to meet the quick-release bracelet, which tapers from approx. 25mm to 18mm and comprises polished oval links and brushed H-shaped links. The sides of the bracelet are entirely polished. The signed screw-down crown is the perfect size and easy to operate.

Completing the case is a tough, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal which has an anti-reflective coating applied to the inside.

THE DIAL AND HANDS

There are four dial colours to choose from – Emerald Green, Stirling Silver, Deep Black, and the Midnight Blue featured here – all crafted from brass. When the light hits the dial, the Midnight Blue springs to life and the colour is rich and deep. In other lights it can almost appear very dark, almost black. The dial has a real radiance to it, thanks to what Rosenbusch describe as a ‘sunburst radial grind’.

Two design elements are deserving of a special mention here. The first is the applied indices used for the hour markers, as I don’t think I’ve ever seen a design like them before. Rounded baton-shaped polished frames surround solid blocks of lume, and both the frame and the lume itself appear to come to an apex. This impressive design is also carried over to the applied indices on the small centre dial (minus lume). Sadly, it’s something that’s very difficult to capture on camera.

The second unusual design element is the secondary inner dial, which brings with it a novel way of tracking the passing seconds. A simple stick seconds hand ticks around a fluted track, which also has tiny, applied indices denoting every five seconds. Think of it like a small-seconds sub dial, but placed centrally on the dial around the pinion. It’s a quirky feature which echoes the shape of the main dial and bezel, but also adds texture and symmetry to the face of the watch.

The hour and minute hands are a simple baton shape, and each has a centre strip of high quality Super-LumiNova BGW9 which glows blue for excellent legibility in low light. BGW9 is also used for the applied hour indices. Dial text is kept simple with just the brand name, applied logo and ‘automatic’. A nicely framed black-on-white date wheel sits at the three o’clock position. Finally, on the outer edge of the dial is a minute track on a colour-matched rehaut, with ‘Made in Germany’ printed at the six o’clock position.

THE MOVEMENT

The Quest RB35 is fitted with the Seiko NH35A automatic movement, which you can hand-wind and hack. This ultra-reliable Japanese movement beats at 21.600vph and has a 41-hour power reserve. Whilst the NH35A is not famed for high levels of accuracy (-20/+40 seconds per day) it’s a great choice to help keep the price down and many buyers will opt for this option. If you love the Quest, but want a more accurate movement, Rosenbusch has got your back, as they also offer The Quest RB200, which is fitted with the Sellita SW200, accurate to +/- 7 seconds per day.

HOW DOES THE QUEST WEAR?

The Quest is certainly a watch with wrist presence. It measures 42mm, is 11.7mm thick and has a lug to lug of 49mm. However, the oval-shaped end links are fixed and protrude slightly from the lugs, so the true maximum span is more like 53mm. The case and end links do have a downturn though, which mitigates this extra length slightly. I’d suggest it’s a watch for medium-large wrists, and in my opinion, it wears true to size or maybe even slightly larger than the dimensions suggest. Sized for my 7 ¼ inch wrist, it weighs 167g.

The stainless-steel bracelet is of excellent quality and features a double fold-over deployant clasp. This will probably be a love it or hate it thing, depending on your preferences. It’s certainly looks great, but it does mean that there are no micro-adjustments. However, on the plus side, half links are supplied, so you should be able to get a pretty good fit. A rubber strap is also included in the price, but this wasn’t part of my review package, so I can’t attest to its quality. The steel bracelet and rubber strap both feature quick-release mechanisms, so you won’t need any tools to swap out as often as you like.

FINAL THOUGHTS

Rosenbusch brings increased competition to the integrated bracelet watch market and The Quest is sure to appeal to those looking for an affordable integrated bracelet style watch. For the Kickstarter price of €469 (€669 at full retail) you’re getting a watch made in Germany with a three-year warranty that offers a good balance of specification and build quality. You get a beautiful dial and reliable movement, nice mix of finishes and some design flourishes which help it stand out from the crowd. Quick release straps are a welcome feature too.

Are there things I’d like to see changed or improved? Yes, of course, as always. From a subjective point of view, I’d love to see a 40mm diameter version. Reducing the case thickness and adding bevelled edges to the bracelet would also bring an extra level of refinement. Finally, whilst the central small seconds design brings a unique aesthetic, from a functional point of view I prefer a full-size centre seconds hand.

If you like the design of The Quest, but you place high accuracy near the top of your list of priorities, you’ll be pleased to hear that Rosenbusch also sell a premium version, called the RB200. The RB200 uses a Sellita SW200 Swiss automatic movement and has an exhibition caseback so you can view the nicely decorated Elaboré grade movement. It also beats at a higher rate, so you’ll get a smoother sweeping seconds hand. Or, if you’re after something more exclusive, then check out The Quest RBX, a limited-edition skeletonised variant!

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There are four different models in the collection, each named after a different capital city. There’s the white-dialled London, the blue-dialled Sydney, and the New York, which has a white dial and gold-coloured steel case. There is also a fourth model which is an all-black special edition called the Hong Kong. 

The Specifications

On paper, these GMTs have some pretty standard specifications, with a flat sapphire crystal that has an anti-reflective coating on each side, 50m of water resistance, and a quartz movement. I can already hear the disapproval from those who would prefer a mechanical movement to a quartz one, but the fact is that quartz is the more practical choice out of the two options. And, given that the Iota GMT is just £265, I think that a quartz movement is a perfectly fine choice for a watch at this price point. The movement in question is the Ronda 515.24H, a 1-jewel Swiss movement with a 45-month battery life and an accuracy of -10/+20 seconds per month. 

The Iota GMT’s Minimalist Design

The dial that sits above the quartz movement is an excellent example of how to design a minimalist watch. It’s simple and easy to read and has some nice design elements that separate it from poor-quality minimalist watches. The hour markers are simple batons, and on the London and New York models, these have polished surfaces that catch the light rather nicely. Meanwhile, on the Sydney, they are painted a light grey that contrasts with the rich blue dial. To break up the uniform ring of markers, the ones at twelve and six o’clock are shorter, and either black or white depending on the model. They also have an “O” at their tips that further helps to break up the dial, and together with a debossed line running down the centre of the dial, they create the illusion of two waypoints joined by a line. 

Around the hour markers is printed a simple 24-hour scale for use with the GMT hand. And, though it is pretty plain, there’s nothing wrong with that because it means that it’s easy to read and use. 

The last element to the dial is that the top half is printed with diagonal lines. These create a subtle shading effect across the dial that’s somewhat reminiscent of the bi-colour bezels seen on other GMT watches. It’s a subtle touch, but one that gives the Iota GMT a more distinctive look than it would otherwise have. 

The hour, minute and seconds hands on the Iota GMT are clean and uncomplicated sticks, with polished surfaces. The hour and minute hands are also bevelled, and this helps to make the hands appear more sophisticated than they would if they were simply flat. However, it’s here that we come across the only two negative things I have to say about the dial. The first is that the hands could be better finished. Though they look fine when I glance down at any of the watches on my wrist, up close I can see that they have marks across the polished surfaces. The second negative is that seconds hands on all three samples also don’t hit square on the hour marks, but fortunately, as there is no minute track, this isn’t too noticeable. It’s a shame because these two points are the only flaws I can see on any of the watches, but at this price point, it’s hardly the end of the world. 

Meanwhile, the GMT hand is skeletonised and coloured to blend in with the dial, with the exception of the tip, which is either black or white so that it’s easy to pick out against the dial. By having only the tip contrasting with the dial, it prevents the GMT hand from cluttering up the face, whilst not impacting the usability of the GMT function. 

Individually each element might not seem like much but brought together they make for an attractive cohesive design.

The Case & Wearability

In keeping with the simple dial, the case of the Iota GMT is equally straightforward. The finish varies between each model, with the Sydney’s case being almost entirely polished apart from the tops of the lugs. Meanwhile, the New York’s and London’s cases are almost entirely brushed, other than the sides of the bezel. It’s down to you which you prefer, but the finishing is pretty good and the case slopes inwards which stops it from being overly simple. 

The case measures 40mm across, with a 46mm lug length, and it’s just 8.5mm thick. With these dimensions, the Iota GMTs are very wearable, and they can easily slip under a shirt cuff. 

I must admit that I was pleasantly surprised by the quality of the leather straps the GMTs come on. They’re made from Italian Nappa leather and are noticeably nicer than the leather straps you usually see on watches of this price point. They’re very soft to the touch and are quite supple despite also being nice and thick too. As a finishing touch, they come with quick-release spring bars so that you can change them out with ease. 

Final Thoughts

Now, I know that we watch enthusiasts can often be quite dismissive of quartz watches. After all, more often than not they’re overpriced watches designed to appeal to the general consumer. However, with these GMTs Iota reminds us that we shouldn’t dismiss quartz watches outright. Because these watches show that with a bit of care and attention to detail, it’s possible for a brand to offer a well-designed and well-built quartz watch at a reasonable price. 

You can read more about the GMT collection on Iota’s website here.

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What French watchmaking looks like in 2022 is this: there are a few historical brands that strive to remain relevant and others that pushed their own boundaries and evolved, meanwhile there are a few independent brands that appeared in the past decade that have become synonymous with uniqueness in design, fine watchmaking, and approachable from a financial standpoint. Amongst these brands, one can find Baltic, Serica, and Charlie Paris. Adding to the French heritage of watchmaking is now Manime, the brainchild of Édouard Paris, a French ex-pat living in Bangkok.

Today we’re going to be taking a look at Manime’s first model, La F., which stands for “La François.” It was named after one of Édouard’s oldest and closest childhood friends.

La F. in Numbers

La F. inscribes itself on the register of reasonably-proportioned watches with a case coming in at 40mm in diameter, a lug-to-lug distance of 45mm, a thickness of 10.2mm and a lug width of 20mm. Within its thin body, one will find the Miyota 9039 movement, one of Miyota’s best movements that won’t make you break the bank. The 9039 comes with 24 jewels, 42 hours of power reserve, and beats at 28,800 BPH (4Hz.) It’s a good movement with a proven track record of accuracy and reliability. Two key features that sit comfortably within the requirements for a daily wearer. La F. is indeed an everyday timepiece that comes with modern angles and delicate finishing.

The case and mesh bracelet are made of 316L stainless steel and are adorned with fine brushing and polishing. (More on that later.) The crystal is made of a domed piece of sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating and one will find another piece of sapphire on the back of the watch. Indeed, La F. comes with a see-through case-back made of a flat sapphire crystal. This is impressive for a watch that only measures 10.2mm in thickness. To finish off the section about the specifications: the markers are applied and highly polished, and the dauphine hands are also polished and equipped with thin sections of C1 SuperLuminova. La F. comes with 50 meters of water resistance, a screw-down case-back, and a push/pull crown.

The Star of the Show: The Case

If you look at the catalogues of all micro/independent/craft brands that were created in the past decade, you will see that many of them first released a dress watch. Although I won’t point fingers at any brand, I’ve seen the same quartz-powered, thin dress watch with polished markers and dauphine hands define many brands’ debut collections. So in a sense, Manime went the same route by creating La F.: we see dauphine hands and polished markers. However, Manime went a step further than most new brands by putting a sturdy automatic mechanical movement inside the case and by endowing the latter with some serious angles.

The case of La F. is what I like the most about this model: the sides are reminiscent of yesteryear’s tonneau-shaped watches while the top and bottom sections (here understand the portions at the lugs) come with dramatic vertical cuts. It looks as if someone decided to remove part of the case with a laser while taking the time of rounding off the edges. Looking at the case from the side, we notice how straight these angles are. I absolutely love it. Which means the corners of the case are angular, and these dramatic angles are accentuated by a circular satin finish on their top and side.

Having a thickness of 10.2mm, La F. sits flat on the wrist and is comfortable to wear. The mesh bracelet is light and complements the style of the watch, and if you don’t like mesh bracelets you can easily swap it out for a strap thanks to the drilled lugs. The short lug-to-lug distance means La F. will fit many wrists not only from a wrist-to-watch-length ratio perspective but also from a visual one: the lugs are short and point down toward the wrist, following a natural flow with the mesh bracelet which contours the wrist nicely.

The Second Star of the Show: The Dial

Going back to my original point that many brands go for lacklustre dress watches for their first collection, I would like to point out the intricate—yet subtle—dial layout La F. comes with. First, we see the imposing highly polished dauphine hands, then the applied and equally highly polished markers. So far, there are a lot of polished surfaces, which indicates elegance and conservatism. Then we notice the satin, radial finish on the grey and black sections of the dial which contrast with all of the polished surfaces. These brushed surfaces create visual continuity outward looking onto the case, since the flat sections of the latter are also adorned with the same finish.

La F. might look more dressy than utilitarian but it doesn’t shy away from having some serious specifications, as we’ve seen above. Staying on the dial we notice circular lume plots on the farthest edge of the dial. These are made of C1 SuperLuminova, making La F. legible in low-lit conditions. As any proper tool watch would have, La F. has double lume plots at 12 o’clock to aid with orientation in the dark. The dial, therefore, is an intricate cross between pure horological dressiness and useful utilitarianism of tool watches that come together into a timepiece that looks just like any other one at first glance but that impresses upon closer inspection.

The Third Star of the Show: The Bracelet

I would be remiss if I were not to mention the unusual sizing feature of the mesh bracelet. 80% of the bracelet is your standard mesh bracelet affair: indeed a mesh construction with straight links and a double-deployant clasp. But Manime wanted to make the bracelet easy to adjust while being different. (Normally, mesh bracelets are adjusted with old-school-looking clasps that require you to lift a tab with a screwdriver to adjust the length.) La F. is equipped with small, high-polish links that can be removed to adjust the bracelet. This is not unique (it comes on high-end German mesh bracelets) but is rarely seen for a watch at this price point.

Final Thoughts

At first glance, La F. appeared to me as being just another dress watch. But upon taking a closer look at the specifications, I realized there was more (much more, actually) than meets the eye. From the angular case to the fine circular brushing on the various sections of the dial and case, to the convenient drilled lug holes and useful adjustment systems on the clasp. Édouard packed a lot of useful features and serious specifications in a watch that retails for a mere €339 (£229) on pre-order and €399 (£351) thereafter. I encourage you to visit the brand’s website to read more about La F. and their pre-order campaign.

The post The Manime La F. – An Affordable And Stylish French Dress Watch appeared first on 12&60.

I’ve owned two G-Shocks over the past few years, one was a 5600 variant, and the other was a 5610, both with a negative display. Which is one of the reasons I think I ended up selling both watches in the end. Whilst I liked the stealthy look of a black G-Shock with a negative display, the reality is they’re harder to read. The other reason was that, even though I know both watches were very tough, they were too light for me, and therefore they felt a bit cheap. I know that it’s a fallacy to equate weight with quality, but nonetheless, there’s something reassuring about a watch with a bit of heft to it. 

After these two brief flirtations with G-Shock, I thought that it just wasn’t a brand for me. But, a few months ago I came across the GW-5000U, a G-Shock model that seemed to fix the problems I’d had with other G-Shocks. The GW-5000 is the direct descendant of the first ever G-Shock, the DW-5000C, and in 2021 the model received an upgrade with a new module, which is denoted by the addition of the U to the model number. It’s also not a model that’s actually available in the UK, and I had to do a bit of hunting to source one from a retailer in Europe for around £200-250. 

What Separates The 5000 From The 5610? 

As you can see it’s pretty much the same classic square G-Shock design you get with the 5610, but there are a couple of minor differences. The main difference is that the GW-5000U features a steel inner core, with a screw-down case back, whereas the 5610 only has a plastic core with a steel back plate held down by four screws. This means that the GW-5000U is considerably heavier than the 5610, weighing 74g compared to 52g. The strap on the GW-5000U is also softer, which further helps it to feel more premium than the 5610. Lastly, not that it really matters, but the GW-5000U is made in Japan, and the 5610 is produced in Thailand. 

How The Casio G-Shock GW-5000U Wears

On the face of things, the GW-5000U sounds rather large, with a 43mm wide case, a 49mm length, and a thickness of 13.5mm. However, the iconic square G-Shock case is surprisingly wearable. Sure, it’s got a strong presence on my skinny 6.25-inch wrist, but it doesn’t overwhelm it. Plus, as I just mentioned, it has a high-quality polyurethane band that makes the watch very comfortable to wear. 

Of course, in addition to its wearability, the GW-5000U is also as durable as you’d expect from anything bearing the G-Shock name. In addition to its renowned shock protection, the watch is water resistant to 200m and charges off solar power. This last feature is a must-have in my book, as it eliminates the minor inconvenience of having your watch unexpectedly stop every couple of years when the battery runs out. 

The Legibility Of The Casio G-Shock GW-5000U

For legibility in the dark, the GW-5000U has a white LED backlight. This is activated by pressing the top-right button, but there’s also a neat function where if you look at the watch in the dark the watch automatically senses the movement of your wrist and switches the light on. You’re also able to adjust the length of time the light is on to either 1.5 or 3 seconds.  I know that there are those who will miss the classic electro-luminescent backlight seen on the older generations of G-Shock, but personally, I think the LED light provides excellent contrast and legibility, so it’s not a bad upgrade in my opinion. 

Speaking of legibility, the latest modules feature the clearest display seen on a G-Shock Square yet, but that doesn’t stop the GW-5000U from suffering from the same problem all digital watches have, and that’s the viewing angle for the display. By which I mean, that you can’t read the display from a wide angle, and that you need to look at it square on for it to be at its most crisp. This is the one area where I think an analogue watch has an advantage, as it’s much easier to tell the time from an oblique angle. It’s a minor point in the grand scheme of things, but one that I think is worth noting if legibility is your main concern. 

A bigger problem for me is that the GW-5000U uses a mineral crystal. Whilst the model isn’t at a price point where I expect a watch to always have a sapphire crystal, it’s an upgrade I really wish Casio would make to this model. Though the raised case of the G-Shock does offer some protection to the crystal, mineral crystal simply scratches too easily. In fact, I even managed to foolishly scratch it whilst filming outside for this review. 

You Can Never Have Too Many Features

Just like the latest 5610 model, the GW-M5610U, the GW-5000U is equipped with Casio’s 3495 module, which has more features than you can shake a stick at. I won’t list every little feature the module has, simply because I don’t want this review to just be me listing specs and features. However, to give you a broad outline of what the watch can do in addition to telling the time, it has:

• Radio-controlled timekeeping
• A day/date indicator
• World time in 48 cities across 31 time zones
• A stopwatch
• A countdown timer
• Up to five alarms
• A power-saving mode

Given that the watch can do so much, it’s pretty hard to argue that this isn’t the perfect choice of watch to take with you into the great outdoors. In fact, the only reason I can come up with to not choose a G-Shock is that I can’t connect with it on the same emotional level as an analogue watch. And that’s because there’s a certain old-fashioned charm to using a mechanical watch as a tool that really appeals to me. Perhaps it’s because they’re a reminder of a “golden age” of tool watches when the first iterations of iconic watches like the Submariner or Speedmaster were made to actually be used in adverse conditions, rather than to don the wrists of desk jockeys like myself. 

However, whilst I think it’s important to embrace those emotional connections with our watches, I think it’s also important to remember to pick the right tool for the job. Because, whilst I’ll always be attracted to the romantic idea of taking my mechanical tool watches out on an adventure, the simple fact is that this G-Shock is a much more practical and affordable watch to take on those trips. 

Final Thoughts

So, if you’re after a proper beater watch, you know that you can’t go wrong with a G-Shock. Though whether or not you should choose this GW-5000U is another matter. Because, whilst it’s a great watch, it will cost you in the region of £250, which is significantly more than a new 5610, which can be bought for around £100. Given that both models use the same module, it really comes down to whether or not you’re willing to pay 2.5 times more for the small improvements the GW-5000U offers over the 5610. Personally, I’d say, that if you’re after a G-Shock purely for its functionality, then stick with the 5610. The GW-5000U is more for those after a slightly nicer G-Shock square simply for its own sake. 

But whilst the GW-5000U might be a debatable value proposition at best, it’s still a very nice G-Shock, with a classic, understated design paired with a rock-solid build. Which is why it will remain my go-to beater for a long time yet.

You can read more about the GW-5000U, and the history of G-Shock, on the G-Shock website here.

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