Their initial model, the First 42 Collection, is a delightfully classy mecha-quartz dress watch. However, it’s not Swiss. So, their goal strongly hinges on this fine piece of metal – the Shellback.

As soon as I saw the designs of this (it’s been shared a lot on Facebook groups and the like by Alexander, the co-founder) when they were first shared, I knew it was going to be a hit. The angular case, simple yet modern sandwich dial, and unusual handset certainly make it stand out from a design perspective. But whilst it might look nice, is it well-built, and does it offer good value for money with an RRP of €795 / $795? Let’s check it out.

The specs

• Dimensions: 40mm diameter x 12mm height x 47mm lug to lug
• Weight: 172g
• Water resistance rating: 20ATM / 200m
• Movement: Ronda R150
• Lug width: 20mm
• Warranty: 2 years
• Price: €795 / $795 / ~£680
• Available from: https://tuseno.com/collections/shellback

Watch the Tusenö Shellback Video Review

The 40mm diameter case is a delight to wear, the perfect size for a diver that wants to make a statement, but not look like it’s trying too hard. Plus, it’s comfortable and can be worn on all occasions. It wears thinner than the 12mm height too, thanks to the slender side profile and chamfered edges.

The Shellback’s double layer sandwich dial offers depth, and this blue dial is brushed with a colour that varies from light to dark blue depending on the lighting and angle. I particularly like the rounded batons at 12, 3, 6 and 9, and the matching date window is well designed.

I love a date window at 6, as it keeps things symmetrical. A wonderful display of attention to detail is how the date window has a lumed border to it, keeping the design uniform at night. 

The thick pitched hands are another excellent unique design feature; particularly the doughnut in the hour hand which swipes over the model name revealing it in the gap. The minute hand is a strong, bold baton with a pointed tip; the seconds hand a thin stick with an elegant arrow.

The dial and bezel insert is filled with BGW9 lume, which is strong and lasts a long time.

The ceramic bezel insert is a midnight blue to complement the dial, with the marking neatly engraved and filled. It has a good grip on the outside, and the action is firm and accurate. It also provides a real hefty clicking noise.

The caseback and crown feature Tusenö’s new symbol, “The Guiding Light”. Inspired by sea charts, it’s a modification to the symbol used for a sector lighthouse, which guides ships through channels at night. It’s a pitched 5 pointed star, with a cropped circle behind it and a location pin in between 2 of the points. It’s a very classy and simple design, which I think suits the brand and watch very well.

The Ronda R150 movement is relatively new (being a few years old), and is yet another direct competitor to the ETA 2824-2 although it’s not a direct clone. For me, competition is good, and the more alternatives we have to that timeless movement, the better. It has all the normal specs you’d expect: a high beat rate of 28.8k bph, hand and automatic winding, 25 jewels, hacking seconds, and a 2 hour better power reserve coming in at 40 hours. 

The bracelet is incredible, it’s as simple as that. A “flat link bracelet”, it is a sharp, crisp design with flat tops and polished bevelled edges which work seamlessly with the case. Additionally, the links are fully articulated. If you’ve never tried a fully articulated bracelet before, then you are missing out. Supreme comfort due to the way they hug the wrist. 

The chunky Diver extension clasp, in my opinion, is a bit too large. The logo is neatly engraved on top, with a split near the base, which is where the clever 13mm “on the fly” extension extracts from by pulling the two angled side buttons upwards. Still, it’s chunky, sturdy and substantial providing a sense of great quality, like every other aspect of this immense watch.

Tusenö Shellback Final Comments

Ever since it was released, I’ve always said the latest iteration of the Christopher Ward C60 Trident is the best Swiss diver under £1000. But, I’ve got to say, the Tusenö Shellback is the only watch that has come close to knocking it off that top spot.

Circling back to Tusenö’s goal “to be the number one manufacturer of high quality watches with a combined production in Sweden and Switzerland”. The Shellback is the type of watch that will help them achieve it. Tremendous build quality, unique design, a level of fit and finish that doesn’t exist at this price point – it’s genuinely a wonderful watch. 

I haven’t been this impressed by a watch for a long time – and if you buy one too, I’m confident you’ll feel the same.

The post Tusenö Shellback Watch Review appeared first on 12&60.

This new ‘go anywhere, do everything’ watch collection introduces a new label; named ‘EveryWatch’ – a watch for dress, work and play. The new C63 Sealander Collection is available from £595 for the C63 Sealander Automatic, from £795 for the C63 Sealander GMT and £1,150 for the C63 Sealander Elite.

The model I have for review is the standard automatic, and at first glance £595 is a fair price, although that does creep up to £700 if you want the bracelet.

Without further ado, let’s check it out!

The video review

The specs

• Dimensions: 39mm diameter x 11.25mm height x 45.8mm lug to lug
• Weight: 74g
• Water resistance rating: 15ATM / 150m
• Movement: Sellita SW200-1 with Elaboré ‘Colimaçoné’ finish
• Accuracy: +5.3 sec/day
• Lug width: 20mm
• Warranty: 60 days of free returns worldwide / 60-month movement guarantee
• Price: £595
• Available from: https://www.christopherward.com/sport-new/c63-sealander-automatic/C63-39ADA3-S00K0-TKR.html

First things first, let’s get the logo out of the way. There’s a lot to be said about those two simple words making up the now-departed co-founder. This is the third logo in the brand’s lifespan, and it was met with a fair amount of opposition, especially when the text is left-aligned and at 9, as many models have. However, centre-aligned text at 12 is sure to please many, as it provides a much more balanced and symmetrical design. If only they’d use the twin-flags logo more, as that would be awesome.

Secondly, the wearability of the watch. It’s a tremendous size for my 7” wrist; 39mm is perfect for me: small enough to look right and be comfortable, large enough to impress. The 11.25mm height is also fairly slender, so it’ll fit nice and snug under a cuff. The weight of 74g on this NATO also helps the comfort.

The Christopher Ward C63 employs the brand’s Light-catcher case, secure to 150m/15ATM. I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again – this is one of the best watch cases I’ve ever seen and handled on an affordable watch. It’s a joy to view at every single angle, providing an array of light reflections due to the various facets, bevels and finishing. Due to the slender design, it also looks a lot thinner and slender than the height suggests, making it feel even more wearable.

Thirdly, the design. Let’s face it, it’s pretty simple. But: simple doesn’t mean boring. Legible and well proportioned, it reminds me of the Rolex Explorer. Indeed, this could be one of the best non-homage affordable alternatives to that peerless classic.

You get the choice of black or white hand-finished, polished lacquer dials, with applied, faceted brushed and polished indexes. The glossy nature of the dual instantaneously provides a luxurious feel to the watch, and the way it plays with the light is lovely, just like my Trident.

The new Trident range hands are present, which have a polished edge and brushed central flank. This dramatically reflects the light, making it interesting to view. There’s the signature Trident counter-balance on the seconds hand, with a red tip on the other end to provide a splash of colour alongside the red “150m|500ft” in the bottom half.

The date at 6 is a superb alteration to the rest of the Trident range. I personally really like the symmetry it provides, and the black wheel matches the dial perfectly, so it’s very inconspicuous and subtle. There’s a gently bevelled edge around the border of the window, which is hardly recognisable.

The hands and hour markers are loaded with Super-LumiNova Grade® X1 BL C1, and in true Christopher Ward fashion, is nothing to write home about. Sure, it glows and you can see it in the dark – but just about, and it’s not particularly noticeable.

The omission of a standard rotating bezel, being replaced by a circular brushed and polished fixed steel bezel transforms this watch from a diver to a multi-purpose design.

The movement is a solid choice and is Christopher Ward’s go-to: the Sellita SW200-1, with a pleasing Elaboré ‘Colimaçoné’ finish. The twin flags engravings on the rotor is excellent. Specs include 38 hours power reserve, 26 jewels, 28,800 bph (8 ticks per second), hand and automatic winding and hacking seconds hand. This one is coming in at an accurate +5.3 sec/day.

It’s the first appearance of a #tide ocean material strap on a regular model. Looking like a particularly sophisticated NATO, these woven nylon straps are made of discarded plastic hauled from the Pacific, then shredded, treated for UV damage, and reconstituted as watch straps. Please note that this strap is a prototype so there are a few anomalies with it that won’t be present in the production models; it’s thicker than it will be and will therefore start to fray where the productions models wouldn’t. I love the way they provide the looks and comfort of a NATO, but none of that annoying bulk under the case, raising the watch head high up.

Final comments

Whilst I’ve only had the watch for a couple of days, one thing’s for sure: I can see this being popular. It fills a void in the Christopher Ward lineup, one that hasn’t been filled since the demise of the old C65 Classic. It certainly is the kind of watch that you can wear doing anything or to any event; all that would be required is a strap swap and you’re good to go. It’s has a deeply timeless simplicity to it, one that portrays elegance yet is unpretentious; one that can easily be dressed up or down. And the overall build quality? Flawless, as I’ve come to expect.

For some, perhaps it’s too plain. But for others, that clear dial, providing optimal legibility and a classic look, will be just the ticket.

The post Christopher Ward C63 Sealander Automatic Watch Review appeared first on 12&60.

During my presentation work for WatchShop, they introduced me to a diver that they’ve been instrumental in developing – the Depth Charge. I approached it with scepticism when I saw the price; a mere £179, expecting it to be poorly built with average specs. But, immediately my eyes lit up: sapphire crystal, Seiko NH35 movement, ceramic bezel, glossy dial, and it’s NOT a Submariner homage?! I had to check it out. 

Boy am I glad I did. Let’s take a look at why. 

The specs

• Dimensions: 40mm diameter x 13mm height x 47.5mm lug to lug
• Weight: 168g
• Water resistance rating: 20ATM / 200m
• Movement: Seiko NH35 
• Accuracy:
  • black: +10 sec/day
  • blue: -9.9 sec/day
  • green: -4.9 sec/day
• Lug width: 20mm
• Warranty: 2 years
• Price: £179
• Available from:
  • Black: https://tidd.ly/3gQOplH
  • Blue: https://tidd.ly/3xP0Rbh
  • Green: https://tidd.ly/3j5PcRi

The video review

The case is on the simple side; a fairly standard barrel shape with polished sides and a brushed top and bottom. The crown guards are also a simple curvaceous protrusion and protect the screw-in crown well, featuring the “DC” logo impressively engraved on the end.

The caseback is plain, with a polished base, the logo at the top and specs around the outer edge. I would have preferred brushed as it’s already scratched due to the back of the bracelet when I put the watch down. 

Deep hour markers leave a shadow and reflection on the glossy dial which drastically exemplifies their depth and quality. I also like how the underside of the hands provide a delicate reflection. Glossy dials as a whole supply a much classier, elegant and luxurious appearance; so it’s welcome here, on a watch costing a mere £179. 

The lack of date window produced an uncluttered, bold and easy to read dial. I prefer no-date dials for this reason, plus I never bother setting them correctly. 

It’s great that the dial has some uniqueness about it – predominantly due to the bold arrow hands. I’m so pleased that there isn’t a Mercedes hand in sight. 

The logo is quite possibly the only thing that may cause some division. I can live with it, but for others, it might seem a bit too overbearing. I must admit, it’s not the most appealing design – seems a bit too “tool-like” and not elegant enough for a watch. 

You have three different colours at your disposal, which is a decent selection depending on what you prefer. Each has a well-matched ceramic bezel insert along with the dial itself. The blue and green are pleasant alternatives to the regular black, but there’s just something so classic, so timeless, and so elegant about the jet black option. 

The bezel inserts provide a lovely glossy finish, and all markings are engraved accurately. Sadly only the pip at 12 is lumed, I was hoping that all markings would be lumed but for this much money, you can’t have everything. I’ve noticed a couple of the bezel inserts aren’t perfectly lined up, perhaps a quarter of a click out, but Seiko have issues worse than Depth Charge so I’m not too concerned. 

The lume is fairly decent for the price too – not strong enough to blow your mind, but it’s certainly noticeable which for me is perfectly suitable. 

Moving on to the bracelet, measuring 20mm wide at the lugs tapering down to 18mm at the buckle. It’s excellent for the price of this watch. Extremely comfortable, well-oiled, and moulds to the wrist so well. 

I’m not too happy about the polished centre link, it makes the watch a bit “blingy”, and is sure to pick up scratches immediately and easily. A fully brushed bracelet would have made the watch a better daily wearer. 

The double-locking buckle has the Depth Charge logo neatly engraved on the top, and what’s more impressive is the addition of a divers extension as well as three micro-adjust points. 

The movement selected is tried and tested. What else could it be? None other than the rustic, reliable, infallible Seiko NH35. Found in the vast majority of affordable automatic watches, it is cheap, easy to regulate, and just gets the job done. Still, I’m pretty happy to find it within this diver for £179. Whilst I’m not expecting COSC accuracy, the fact that all three of these watches come in (just) under +/- 10 seconds a day is what I would expect. 

It’s finally good to mention the decent 200m water resistance rating. 

Final comments

You can’t fault the build quality and specs. In fact, it’s tremendous value for money. In reality, I can only nit-pick visual aspects; such as the logo and polished central link. 

£179 is a steal. WatchShop also has the occasional extra 25% off (which they do at the time of publishing this review) so these watches can be had for a crazy £135. Now that is pretty insane. Yes, you can technically get something from AliExpress for cheaper, but it’ll take ages to arrive and you will most likely get hit with import taxes. Why not just get a more unique watch locally, straight from the UK? 

The post Depth Charge Diver Watch Review appeared first on 12&60.

Here we have the Aikon Venturer, a more rugged, aggressive and slightly more casual take on the Aikon. This one, in particular, is a limited edition – which comes with a slightly different second strap (additional to the steel bracelet) and orange accents for an extra €100.

Let’s check it out to see how it holds up.

The specs

• Dimensions: 43mm diameter x 12mm height x 49mm lug to lug
• Weight: on strap – 130g, on bracelet – 178g
• Water resistance rating: 30ATM / 300m
• Movement: ML115
• Accuracy: +9.7 sec/day
• Lug width: 13mm inside lugs, 25mm outer edge
• Warranty: 2 years
• Price: 2,290€ / ~£2050
• Available from: https://www.mauricelacroix.com/eu_en/watches/watches-aikon/aikon-venturer-43mm-ai6058-ss002-431-1

The video review

The case

Let’s be honest, spending around £2000, you expect the case to be top-notch. And indeed, it is.

Satin-finished with polished edges, it has a luxurious air to it that certainly backs up the price tag. How does it wear? Surprisingly well and easy for a 43mm diameter watch. The lugs and integrated strap and bracelet take an aggressive down-turn, allowing it to hug the wrist. The height of 12mm is to the tip of the crown arms, so the height of the bulk of the watch is surprisingly slender.

The bezel’s distinctive six “arms” are much more aggressive, sporty and functional than the normal Aikon; providing excellent grip and visual indicator of the 10-minute intervals. The general grip around the edge of the bezel is also very grippy, so it’s simple to use. The bezel action is what you’d expect: buttery smooth, lines up accurately and just the right firmness.

Additionally, the bezel insert is glossy ceramic, which catches the eye alongside all the other reflective elements. The bezel markings are engraved into the ceramic and are lume filled.

A “Vagues du Jura” motif surrounds the engraved “M” logo in the centre of the case back, which is secured in place by 7 screws.

Moving on to the screw-in crown; it is on the wide side of things (I probably would have preferred it to not protrude past the crown guards quite as much), but it is easy to use and grip. The “M” logo is embossed on the end, against a frosted backdrop. The crown guards are rather utilitarian in design, which I like.

The dial

Available in black or blue, the sun-brushed dial certainly is versatile and assembled to exquisite levels.

The delicious sunburst backdrop is just the beginning; as the entire dial is so well balanced and crafted.

The applied “M” logo is perfectly made and applied, whilst all print work is delicate and precise.

The baton hour and minute hands are relatively plain, and in this instance, less is more. Simple, bold hands that get the job done; whilst still maintaining a smidgen of elegance. The seconds hand is a straight stick, with a lumed disc and orange painted tip.

The hour markers are a pleasantly unusual yet simple design: orange discs, batons and a triangle with a lumed central channel with rounded edges to fit within their containers. I love the orange splash, which occurs on this limited edition only.

Some may grumble at the date wheel not being colour matched to the dial, however that never really bothers me; when it’s white it’s much more of a feature and easy to locate and read. The window has a neat applied, polished border to it which allows it to stand out even more.

The lume used throughout the Aikon Venturer is Super-LumiNova. I’d say it’s average; sure you can see it but it doesn’t glow super bright or last a crazy long time.

The strap and bracelet

The bad news for some is the fact that both the strap and bracelet are integrated (so no third-party straps). The good news, though, is that the strap and bracelet are simply incredible – and you’d be foolish to want to change them. The build quality, comfort, attention to detail truly are impressive.

This limited edition comes with both the strap and bracelet featured in this review. They both feature quick-release pins (with a teeny-tiny Maurice Lacroix logo engraved on the end of the toggles) and are relatively straightforward to switch. I find the strap a lot easier to fit than the bracelet, which requires a bit of wiggling to catch.

The bracelet is a delight to look at, with so many facets and angles reflecting the light in so many wondrous ways. It’s got an aura of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak to it – and indeed, this is a worthy affordable alternative.

The bracelet is constructed of a myriad of interlocking links, which mould to the wrist well and provide very comfortable wear. The precision of manufacturing is plain to see, with perfect finishing to boot.

The bracelet features a concealed butterfly clasp, which could prove difficult for some to get a perfect fit (as there are no half links). The Maurice Lacroix logo is deeply and accurately engraved on the top side of the clasp.

The leather-backed canvas style strap is another winner in my eyes. I’m usually 100% a bracelet guy, but this strap is so good I’m enjoying the Aikon Venturer on both. As you’d expect, it integrates seamlessly into the case, and the small “M” logo embedded in the top of the end facing you is a little piece of heaven. The blue naturally matches the dial, whilst the orange stitching is an eye-catching nod to the hour markers.

The butterfly clasp is solid and detailed, with a variety of angles and facets that catch the eye. It’s reassuringly sturdy and feels reliable in the hand.

The movement

The movement powering the Aikon is labelled as the “ML 115”. Whilst it may sound like an in-house movement, in reality, it’s just a Sellita SW200-1 with a custom rotor. It’s a bit confusing when brands do this, almost a little bit “cloak and dagger” as it requires a bit of digging to find out more about it.

The Sellita SW200-1 is a great movement, and there’s no harm in specifying that. For me, I don’t feel a custom rotor justifies renaming a movement for marketing purposes. The good news is that as it has the incabloc anti-shock, it means that it’s the premium grade.

Accuracy is a mediocre +9.7 sec/day. For a watch costing this much, I would have preferred a more regulated movement; however, I usually say mechanicals under +/- 10 secs/day which aren’t COSC are acceptable.

Specs include a high beat rate of 28.8k bph (8 ticks a second), 38-hour power reserve, 26 jewels, hacking seconds, hand and automatic winding.

Final comments

This limited edition is slightly more expensive than the regular Aikon Venturer (€100). Is it worth it? It’s all down to if you’d prefer this strap over the rubber strap, and also if you dig the orange accents. To me, at the RRP the extra price isn’t going to make a huge difference and I love the orange and strap.

Is it a good value watch in general though? I’ve been extremely impressed by the watch from top to bottom. I’m genuinely struggling to find any negatives to note here.

I love the design (been a fan of the Aikon for a while) and in the metal, it’s impressed me greatly. Sure, at the RRP, it can be classed as a luxury watch – so I’d hope it would. But you certainly get the impression you’re getting your money’s worth here.

The post Maurice Lacroix Aikon Venturer Watch Review appeared first on 12&60.

I have also already reviewed this model, the Essence – albeit a pre-production sample, and it was also the COSC version with a different dial. Check out that review here.

Now, the Essence is fully available, so I was desperate to get my hands on the final production version of the standard non-COSC model. Let’s check it out.

The specs

• Dimensions: 43mm diameter x 10mm height x 49mm lug to lug
• Weight: 102g
• Water resistance rating: 10ATM / 100m
• Movement: ETA 2824-2
• Accuracy: +1.8 sec/day
• Lug width: 22mm
• Warranty: 3 years
• Price: £710 / $785
• Available from: Use this link to get a free strap – https://bit.ly/324wMnI

The video review

The case

The diameter of 43mm is quite possibly on the larger side for some, however, due to the slender height of 10mm and reasonable lug-to-lug length I don’t find it wears that large.

The svelte height is a surprise due to the patented case suspension system built within the case, a remarkable feat of engineering that is subtly hidden away – yet is obvious once you know how it works. Some may feel it’s just a marketing ploy and it doesn’t actually do anything – however, Formex insists it is an excellent shock absorber, for both the protection of the mechanical movement and also for comfort.

The suspension system is fully integrated inside the case, but the four struts are visible in the corners of the case. The secretion is cleverly done, the split between the inner and outer sections is at the base of the bezel – you’d never know. The crown also moves up and down, but you can’t see the void as it’s kept behind the crown itself.

On the caseback, the split is most obvious, a shapely line following the perimeter of the case.

As you’d expect, the Essence utilises sapphire crystals on the front and back. The anti-reflective coating they use is quite simply, the best I’ve ever come across on an affordable watch. It’s so gloriously clear, it makes such an incredible amount of difference to how the watch appears, it portrays it as a much more luxury timepiece. It takes the watch to the next level and provides an even more luxurious appearance.

The caseback itself is rather shallow, it’s simple but has an industrial feel to it due to the 8 screws and various specifics deeply engraved around the outer edge, such as the model number and year of manufacture.

The crown features super thick grip, along with angled sides for a decent purchase. The size is just right in terms of ratio to the case, and it features a polished finished outer edge with an inset hexagon.

The finishing is flawless throughout, with a vertical brushed finish on the front of the bezel, flanked by a polished bevel which is cut out by the suspension struts. The case is more or less fully brushed, bar a polished bevelled edge around the outer edging. The fit and finish are excellent.

The dial

Funnily enough, the main complaint I read on comments on video reviews etc is Formex’s name itself – people saying it sounds like a chemical kitchen cleaner, construction company, or even worse – a condom brand. Personally, I’m not fussed at all. People would have probably said the same about Rolex if it was a new brand wasn’t the most widely recognised watch manufacturer in the world. The print work on the dial is all delicate and accurate.

The dial on the non-COSC version rocks an eye-catching sunray finish to it. The COSC version features horizontal lines; however, I think I prefer this version due to its simplicity.

The hands are rather utilitarian in design, whilst still maintaining a slender semi-elegant look. They could be described as a modern take on the alpha or leaf type hand,

The machined indices are styled similarly – and are remarkable when viewed up close. Raised batons, with angled corners and bevelled polished edges containing a lumed channel in the centre. They are all the same, bar a double at 12 and a shorter one at 6 for the date window.

The lume on the hands and hour markers is BGW9 Super-LumiNova. Whilst it’s not out of this world, it’s as you’d expect and performs reasonably.

The date window is located at 6, which I always like to see as it keeps the dial symmetrical. Perhaps the wheel could have been blue to match the dial, but the white definitely helps legibility. Either side of the window is a slope towards the wheel, so it’s not just a simple square cut out of the dial – it’s always good to see attention to detail like that.

The strap

The strap is made of deliciously soft Italian leather, with a supremely comfortable rustic charm to it. The top grain is apparent and provides plenty of character. I’m a big fan of the matching blue to go with the dial.

The strap features curved quick release spring bars, which result in a very snug fit to the case – which is a positive visually in my books.

The folding clasp is another work of art, one that may not get much attention as it is well hidden. It’s made of carbon fibre composite and boasts a patented micro-adjust mechanism which is very easy to use: you simply depress the button and slide it to adjust.

The only thing that I feel is a slight negative is that the strap “feels” the wrong way round – when looking at the watch, the long tail is sticking out the bottom rather than the top. It is all visual, I have no criticism regarding construction or build quality.

The movement

The movement is hard to beat: the ubiquitous ETA 2824-2. Solid, dependable, and highly regarded by many as the best automatic movement going; this movement is the benchmark all others are set against. Formex uses the elaboré grade, which comes out of the factory slightly better regulated.

Specs include 25 jewels, 38 hours power reserve, a high-beat rate of 28.8k bph (8 ticks per second), and hand and automatic winding capabilities.

There’s a small amount of customisation in the form of the Formex logo printed on the standard rotor.

Final comments

I’m not going to lie, I’m an all-put Formex fanboy. Each of the watches I’ve reviewed of theirs has exceeded expectations and portray sensational value for money. Whilst £710 isn’t “cheap”, it’s still a beautiful feat of engineering for the price.

The fit and finish are spotless, the design and construction are flawless; you truly are getting a luxury watch without the price tag.

I adore the anti-reflective crystal – it makes the watch stand out. And the suspension case may be portrayed as a marketing gimmick, but it certainly impresses.

The only real “issue” I have, albeit very minor, is the tail of the strap pointing the opposite way to normal. It doesn’t affect the comfort of the watch in any way; it’s more of a visual niggle.

However, I can certainly look past that and say that the Formex Essence is one of my favourite new releases this year, hands down.

The post Formex Essence Watch Review – Post Kickstarter appeared first on 12&60.

The Trident Mk3 600, however, is much cheaper and therefore more accessible by many, and in turn, is a more suitable watch for review.

When you compare the Mk3 with all Tridents that preceded it, there’s very little that remains: in effect, the Trident counter-weight on the seconds hand and the stylised deep-stamped caseback are the only things. Where are the onion and sword hands and the wavey dial that became synonymous with the Trident? Everything is completely reworked, and the design has been modernised to match the new branding.

They’ve practically started with a blank slate in terms of construction; everything is notably better quality. Let’s check it out to see if it’s worth £795.

The specs

• Dimensions: 40mm diameter x 12.95mm height x 47.46mm lug to lug
• Weight: 159g
• Water resistance rating: 60ATM / 600m
• Movement: Sellita SW200-1
• Accuracy: +7.3 sec/day
• Lug width: 20mm
• Warranty: 5 years
• Price: £795
• Available from: https://www.christopherward.co.uk/c60-trident-pro-600-mk3-7

The video review

The case

The Trident Mk3 is available in 3 different case sizes. For me and my slightly over 7” wrist, the 40mm is spot on. It’s so comfortable, perfectly proportioned, and looks at home on the wrist. Not overbearing, but subtle, classy; just right.

It utilises Christopher Ward’s new “light catcher” case, which can only be described as a work of art and as curvaceous as a racing car; think Aston Martin DB9. Every angle produces eye-catching lines and a variety of reflections thanks to the contours and alternating finishes.

Christopher Ward has claimed that the bezel mechanism on the new Trident v3 is one of the best you can get. It’s quite a bold claim and one that I can’t verify as I’ve not used the bezel on every watch in existence. What I can say that it is indeed very good, with no backwards play, great accuracy, and a loud click. Perhaps it could be a bit smoother, but that’s down to personal preference. There is, however, a minute amount of wiggle when pressing down on top of the bezel at 12 and 6.

The bezel insert is constructed of deep, reflective zirconia ceramic, working very well with the glossy dial. The markings are engraved accurately within and filled with lume; the design of the triangle at 12 rather than a pip looks great.

With a water resistance of 60ATM / 600m, this is a serious dive watch; offering double the rating of a Rolex Submariner and matching the Omega Planet Ocean, it’s clear that Christopher Ward is focusing on making this watch as good value for money as possible.

The crown is protected by subtle and elegant crown guards, offering a measure of protection. The screw-in crown itself is a great size and shape: it doesn’t look out of place in the overall aesthetic of the watch, and it’s easy to use. The grip is very thick offering great purchase whilst using it; the thread whilst screwing/unscrewing it is also reassuringly tight and sturdy. The twin flags motif is deeply embossed on top of a frosted backdrop, showing excellent accuracy and close attention to detail.

The caseback is an impressive deep-stamped feast for the eyes and fingers, providing plenty of depth and texture. The central region is a trident surrounded by the company and model name; which are all polished set against the frosted finish as per the crown. Surrounding this are some lightly engraved details, and around the outside edge are deeply engraved channels mimicking a diving regulator.

Sitting on top of the case is a slightly raised sapphire crystal with a chamfered edge. The anti-reflective coating is effective, providing a clear view of the glossy dial.

The dial

The Christopher Ward Trident Mk3 features a glossy, lacquered dial to replace the classic wavey texture. I feel this works better with the latest branding; it makes it much more modern in appearance and also the glossiness has a more luxurious air to it. Similar to the Planet Ocean Liquid Metal, the thick yet accurate white printwork sits on top of the reflective surface, providing excellent legibility.

Lume has always been a bit of a disappointment on Christopher Ward watches; thankfully they’ve considered this issue, and have upgraded the lume to X1 GL C1 Super-Luminova, which has also been liberally applied. I can confirm – the lume is incredibly bright; charging extremely fast, glowing brightly, and lasting a long time.

The hands are the next thing that is completely remodelled; all that remains is the trident counterweight on the seconds hand. No longer is there the classic sword minute hand and onion hour hand, but rather a very direct arrow hour hand and pointed baton minute hand. They’re filled with lume, as well as having a pleasant array of finishes: a central bushed channel, flanked by polished edges either side.

The hour markers are similar in design to the primary hands; with a lumed central channel, brushed edges and a polished incline at the base.

The date window is cut out of the dial, with a white painted border surrounding it. The date wheel is also black to match.

The bracelet

There are two killer features on the new bracelet: firstly, quick-release tabs; and secondly, a quick, easy and well-concealed micro-adjustment system.

The end links contain the quick-release tabs – just a quick squeeze allows you to take the bracelet off with ease; now strap changes are a matter of minutes rather than painfully trying to remove the bracelet. Plus, no tool markings from the inevitable slipping. I think because of this, the end links aren’t as tight as usual; there has to be a tiny amount of play for the quick release bracelet to be easy to use.

The links have received a favourable redesign too; with a wider centre link which provides a more modern look. They’re completely brushed to hold off any scratches for as long as possible.

The buckle is simple but chunky, with a button either side to realise. It’s also fully brushed, so it’s less likely to pick up scratches (although mine has got a few already). There’s an indent either side to continue the line break of the outer links, and the twin flags motif is deeply engraved near the top.

The micro-adjustment system is great: I’ve found myself using it several times during the heat of the summer when my wrist expands and contracts in size. Just a quick slide of the button and you can readjust the positioning of the bottom link to give you a good few millimetres adjustment. I’ve found it works perfectly to get the right fit.

The movement

The movement powering the Christopher Ward Trident Mk3 600 is the Sellita SW200-1. Hidden away behind the closed caseback, it’s a clone of the effervescent ETA 2824-2, but with an extra jewel. Now that ETA is starting to stop providing the 2824-2 and other movements to manufacturers who aren’t within the Swatch group, Sellita is one of the best alternatives to go for.

It has all the same specs: 28.8k bph (8 ticks a second), ~40-hour power reserve, hacking second hand, auto and hand winding capabilities. This one is coming at a reasonable +7.3 sec/day.

Final comments

When you consider the fact that everything is rebuilt to a much higher quality, the extra £100 from the Trident v2 doesn’t seem that much.

The attention to detail is sensational. I have heard about some QC issues and also timings; however there’s nothing wrong with mine so hopefully, they’ll get ironed out as time goes on. After all, the model has only been out for a matter of months; and I understand that Christopher Ward simply didn’t expect the sheer success and popularity of the Mk3 that it has received – so they’re playing catch up to demand.

The Christopher Ward Trident Mk3 looks fantastic; feels excellent quality in the hands, and is truly a premium dive watch. I adore it and can’t think of a more luxurious watch for the price.

The post Christopher Ward Trident Mk3 600 Watch Review appeared first on 12&60.

Alex, the brands’ owner, is a refreshingly honest guy to talk to and is the main point of contact for the company. They make rather limited quantities of each model, which sell out pretty fast when they do become available.

It’s been a little while since I reviewed a watch by PerpetuaL, so I was very excited to get my hands on the brand new SC-03 (SC stands for Simple Classic). Just considering the specs alone tell you this is going to be good: enamel dial, thermally blued hands (not painted or chemical which is the norm), sapphire crystal and an ST1701 mechanical movement; all for $180 seems pretty insane.

Let’s check it out.

The specs

• Dimensions: 40mm diameter x 12mm height x 48mm lug to lug
• Weight: 84g
• Water resistance rating: 3ATM / 30m
• Movement: Seagull ST1701
• Accuracy: +2.0 sec/day
• Lug width: 20mm
• Warranty: 2 years
• Price: $180 / ~£140
• Available from: http://www.perpetual-watch.com/SC.html

The video review

The case

The case of the SC-03 is fully polished to a high degree. It looks fantastic, especially with the rounded shape of the case providing an array of reflections – just be careful of the inevitable scratches that come along with a polished case.

I’ll admit, the 40mm diameter is larger than I was expecting (I was probably thinking more like 38mm in size), but in all honesty, it doesn’t wear that large due to the flowering case. When you look at the watch from the bottom lug, you can see it’s bulbous and larger at the top; so even though it’s already a comfortable size at 40mm, it feels smaller on the wrist due to a smaller surface area being in contact with your wrist.

The wide polished bezel may not be for everyone; I know I would have preferred a slightly thinner, more elegant bezel visually (if I was being picky). However, despite this, I do like the ridge which breaks it up and provides different angles of reflections.

The push-pull onion crown provides great grip and is easy to use. It’s the ideal size and features the PerpetuaL logo neatly and deeply engraved on the end.

The lugs are thin and rather traditional in design, especially with the large screw heads either side. Alex explains that he does nothing for decorative purposes; and the screws are real, keeping the strap pin in place. Another thing that I wasn’t expecting or see very often for $180.

The caseback features an exhibition window, which showcases the movement well. Various details and specifics are lightly engraved around it. Interestingly, you can also see how the movement is kept in position, aka the “movement holder”. On cheaper watches, these tend to be plastic and can be a bit unsightly. However, as another example of the quality of the watches by PerpetuaL, only metal holders are used.

The dial

The dial material on the SC-03 is enamel. Similar to ceramic, it possesses a beautiful dull, reflective nature to it making the entire watch look luxurious. The colour isn’t a stark, sterile white – but rather a gentle, warm and inviting one; which oozes class and elegance.

The fact that the SC-03 features heat-treated steel hands is quite remarkable for a watch costing $180. If you ever see blue hands on a cheaper watch, they’re most definitely either painted or chemically blued – which you’d expect to be honest, as it’s the cheaper way. First, the hands need to be constructed of steel, and then they’re heated to 325 degrees Fahrenheit. Heated hands provide a deeper, richer blue which a much more luxurious. As the entire piece of steel is blue through-and-through, rather than just the surface, it appears so much more ingrained within the metal.

The shape of the hands are also more traditional: the hour hand is a spade shape, whilst the minute hand nips in at the middle, to make it look as if it’s been twisted. Very elegant, and the perfect length too.

The subdial at 6 is for the running seconds hand, which is ever so slightly indented into the dial. The seconds track is similarly designed to the main track and is neatly designed and sized.

The printwork is all crisp and fine, the black creating a striking contrast against the white enamel. The style of it is all rather conventional (aka in the style or fashion of a vintage piece, think 20s – 40s era). The font chosen for the numerals are particularly vintage-inspired and stand out; an Art Deco style serif. The double-track around the edge has two rings to it: it’s busy in a classic way which is interesting to the eye and looks the part.

The strap

It’s always the same with PerpetuaL Watches – the leather straps are lovely quality for the money. Usually, I’d find the straps on a watch under $200 / £150 to be nothing too special, but here we have lovely soft, thick leather that’s very comfortable to wear. It’s high enough quality for you not to have to replace it until it wears out.

The finish is a dull, matte black, which I prefer to a patent finish and think it works particularly well here. A patent strap would end up making the entire watch far too blingy when alongside a fully polished case and a reflective dial. The contrasting white stitching is thick, sturdy, and compliments the dial.

The butterfly clasp is fully polished and is pretty much the same as you see everywhere. However, I’m particularly impressed by the detailing on the top bar. Yes it’s polished, so it’ll pick up some scratches easily and quickly, but the logo and name are deeply engraved and accurately done so.

The movement

The Seagull ST1701 movement powers the PerpetuaL Watch SC-03. Whilst Seagull movements are not quite as highly regarded as Miyotas, I’ve always found them to be perfectly suitable.

The key feature of this movement is the running seconds subdial at 6, and other specs include hand and automatic winding capabilities, a beat rate of 21.6k bph (6 ticks per second). It does not have a hacking second, and if you’re concerned that it doesn’t run at the smoother 28.8k bph rate, then don’t be; the small hand makes it appear a lot smoother.

It’s nice to see that there is a measure of customisation to the movement, with a small sticker added to the rotor. It’s not much, and the movement isn’t the best looking in the world, but at least it’s something.

Another thing to note is that every watch that is sent out is regulated. This movement certainly has been; as it’s coming in at a rather insane +2.0 seconds a day.

Final comments

Specs-wise, there’s nothing you can knock here. The PerpetuaL Watch SC-03 is a fantastic example of impressive watchmaking at an affordable budget. There’s a reason why they’re always the first I recommend for an affordable watch, and this watch has reaffirmed my thoughts towards the brand.

When you consider what you get: enamel dial, thermally blued hands, sapphire crystal, ST1701 mechanical movement – all for a simply ridiculous $180.

Visually, it may not be for everyone. From a personal perspective, it’s taken some getting used to the wide bezel, plus the general theme is quite vintage which may not be to everyone’s taste. However you feel towards how the watch looks, it doesn’t stop the fact that it’s a staggering watch for the money.

The post PerpetuaL Watch SC-03 Watch Review appeared first on 12&60.

Let’s check it out (this is the first review), and see how it fares.

The video review

The specs

• Dimensions: 41mm diameter x 13.9mm height x 47.8mm lug to lug
• Weight: 128g
• Water resistance rating: 20ATM / 200m
• Movement: Seiko NH35 (this one) or Sellita SW200-1
• Accuracy: +5.9 sec/day
• Lug width: 22mm
• Warranty: 2 years
• Price: pledges start at £199
• Buy / pledge here: https://kck.st/2SjwGne

The case

One if the most impressive selling points of the Hamtun H2 Kraken starting at £199 is that the case and bracelet are constructed with what Ross describes as scratch-resistant “tough” titanium. This means it has an extra, transparent coating on it, much like DLC on steel. Click here to read more on that. This means that the hardness rating goes up to around 1000HV, from 225HV (steel) or 350HV (usual titanium) – and results in a new looking watch for longer.

I love the matte finish to it – it diffuses the light so well.

It’s a perfect size at 41mm diameter – fits on my 7.25″ wrist very well, and looks like it belongs.

Sitting on top of the case is a flat sapphire crystal, with multiple layers of anti-reflective coating on the underside. Let me tell you, it’s one of the best AR coatings I’ve seen on a watch of this value – the crystal is so incredibly clear, with a beautiful flash of blue at certain angles.

The crown at 4 is comfortable as it does not jab your wrist, and personally, I like the jaunty angle as it keeps things a bit different visually. The screw thread is solid and easy to use, thanks to the thick toothing. There is the Hamtun logo embossed on the end in a neat fashion.

The bezel has a comfortable curved outer edge to it, which is gentle to the touch but still easy to grip. Within the bezel is a matte ceramic insert, with Super-LumiNova filled markings – which is all very neatly executed; whilst the finish matches the case perfectly.

Drilled through lugs are always a plus as it makes life easy changing straps if you need to. 22mm is a standard size so you’ll be able to fit quite the selection of straps.

The caseback will be changed, so I can’t really pass any comment on it. Here’s the new design:

The dial

The stark, arctic white is crisp against the grey of the titanium, providing excellent visibility. The white is incredibly eye-catching – I’m not usually the largest fan of white, but this dial is truly captivating.

The raised rehaut and the double inset date window provide decent depth to the dial, the latter being positioned at 4 (a turn off for some). It merged well into the dial design as a whole and actually lines up perfectly with the crown, creating a very strong line visually.

I am impressed with the design of the hour markers; their rounded edges are very modern and they are all excellently made. On top of that, they have great depth and the polished border.

The printing on the dial is crisp and clear – the blue colour used for the “Kraken” text and on the second hand provides a splendid splash of colour too.

The Swiss made Super-LumiNova BGW9 is impressively strong, some of the best I’ve seen on an affordable watch that’s not a Seiko. It charges quickly, glows bright, and lasts a good while.

The hands are a unique shape which is most welcome; bold and very easy to read. The thick borders work so well with the white dial base – as does the white coloured lume.

The bracelet

Being titanium, the bracelet is light, soft to the touch, and comfortable to wear.

The links are 3.8mm thick and are secured in place by screw pins. They’re a simple design; I certainly feel it’s an improvement from the H1.

The buckle is 20mm wide, with the Hamtun logo lightly engraved on top. Perhaps it would be nicer if this was embossed or engraved deeper, plus I think I would have preferred the folding inner workings to be slightly thicker / better constructed. But I’m really nitpicking here – and anyhow, it may even end up being upgraded anyway if the stretch goal is reached.

Here’s the design of the potential new buckle:

The movement

The Hamtun H2 Kraken has two movement options: either a Seiko NH35 or you pay an extra £100 for a Swiss Made Sellita SW200-1. The Sellita grade used is the superior elaboré – so whilst you can’t see it, you know it’s good looking behind the caseback.

Either option is excellent; the Seiko NH35 is so widely used it seems to be in every microbrand watch going (with good reason), the Sellita is a reliable alternative to the ETA 2824-2 (highly regarded as the best Swiss automatic going).

Final comments

I think Ross has done a brilliant job in creating a modern, solidly-built, high specced diver for a very affordable price. Taking the first pledges into consideration – this is a whole lot of watch for £199. In fact, I’d go for it and say I’m struggling to find a better alternative at that price.

I love the stark white dial, the hour markers are very cool, and the hands are different yet bold. What’s really impressed me, however, is firstly the “tough” titanium – which is very impressive considering the cost – and also the stunning anti-reflective coating on the sapphire crystal.

All these things make a great proposition. I’m really happy to see another British brand making great watches, and I’m convinced the H2 Kraken will be a success long into the future.

The post Hamtun H2 Kraken Watch Review appeared first on 12&60.

Demanding almost double the price, there are some serious upgrades: the Seiko NH35A has been replaced with an ETA 2824-2, the leather strap its hand-made by Simona Di Stefano, the lume has had a mega upgrade (it was great already), and there’s been a general revamp of the design and case.

So, with the previous model such a success, does the latest model warrant the price hike? Let’s take a closer look to see.

First, it’s worth mentioning the new, upgraded travel pouch the Vanguard comes packaged in. It’s a lovely canvas affair, with space for two watches as well as straps and tools. I actually use it every day to transport my watches to and from work – it’s a really handy thing to have. Check out the unboxing video to see it in all its glory.

Video review

The specs

• Dimensions: 44mm diameter x 13.5mm height x 54mm lug to lug
• Weight: 135g
• Water resistance rating: 20ATM / 200m
• Movement: ETA 2824-2
• Accuracy: -1.8 sec/day
• Lug width: 24mm
• Warranty: 1 year
• Price: $900 / £710
• Available from: https://www.gruppogammawatches.com/timepieces.html#!/Vanguard-Aged-Steel-AV-16/p/105941552/category=25527850

The case

The aged finish is truly a work of art: rugged, rustic, yet purposeful. What’s more, it’s all ready to take a beating so this is the kind of watch that will look the same years down the line.

The 44mm diameter wears fairly large; and whilst the height of 13.5mm sounds tall, it’s surprisingly slender on the wrist.

Flanking the screw-down lock crown are bolt-on crown guards, which are really heavy duty and provide a tough, built-to-last appearance to the case. The crown surprisingly lines up rather nicely, which I rarely see, and has Gamma and IIII embossed on the end to signify the 4th generation of Vanguard.

The bronze case side guard is a really cool, unique addition. Whilst realistically it is not particularly functional, it’s an extra layer of protection against bangs, it looks great, and the fact that it’s replaceable opens up an opportunity for customisation in the future.

The stainless steel caseback is secured by screws, with a detailed cross-hatch pattern and the Gruppo Gamma skull logo in the centre which looks excellent. Various details are very deeply engraved around the outer edge.

The 120-click unidirectional rotatable bezel has only a pip marker with Swiss Super-LumiNova® C3 at 12. The three points of fastening at 2, 6 and 10 are also handy for grip and are neat pieces of detail with a screw within.

Sitting on top of the case is a low profile double-domed sapphire crystal, which keeps sharp visibility at the tightest angle. It has an anti-reflective coating on the underside which is really effective at keeping reflections at bay.

The dial

The two-tone black dial has a subtle yet effective sunburst colour – a light grey in the centre, to a darker outer edge. It’s tastefully done, draws the eye to the centre of the dial, and keeps things interesting.

The thickly printed hour markers are made of Swiss Super-LumiNova® C3. These are numerals at 12, 3, 6 and 9, whilst the remaining are batons.

The chapter ring is manufactured in a lighter gunmetal finish, which frames the dial so well and complements the entire look. The markings, including the digits, are all engraved with great precision – it’s something so small but excellently executed, well thought-through, and designed / manufactured.

The silver colour hour and minute hands are light enough to be legible against the dial. In terms of shape, they’re a fairly standard baton with a pointed tip – nice and simple and not overly extravagant. The straight red seconds hand provides a splash of colour into the dial and features a lume-filled baton near the tip.

The Swiss Super-LumiNova® C3 lume used across the Vanguard is sensational; I was impressed with the lume on the original – but this is at another level: think similar quality to Seiko LumiBrite. It’s thick, evenly applied, and glows and charged quickly and easily.

The strap

The leather strap is handmade in Italy by Simona Di Stefano Straps.

Regarding the strap, Naoki says:
The straps on all Vanguard models are handmade in Florence by Di Stefano Straps. Probably better known as Simona Straps, the company is run by Simona, who descended from the owner of what used to be Italy’s largest tannery that supplied to Gucci etc in the ’80s – and who herself was the first manager of Panerai’s boutique in Florence. Simona Straps are a prolific maker of premium aftermarket straps for luxury timepieces notably Panerai.

The deep navy blue colour complements the dial and aged steel case perfectly and is a satisfying alternative to grey or black.

The width of the strap of 24mm at the lugs reducing down to 22mm at the buckle is bulky and sturdy – it certainly feels well strapped on to your wrist. You have the ability to select length in the shop in case you have an extra large wrist which is handy.

The leather is sublimely thick, and it smells like a fine pair of shoes. light stitching draws the eye. It has an attractive rustic feel to it, very soft on the wrist. The keeper loops are just as rugged, but I do find that the outer loop tends to slip up regularly rather than keep the long length in place.

The buckle is the same gun metal finish as the case, with Gruppo Gamma engraved in the centre of the top bar. It’s angular and aggressive, which looks great and feels meaty.

The movement

Powering the Gruppo Gamma Vanguard is the unequivocal ETA 2824-2, the go-to Swiss Made automatic movement that is renowned for reliability, ease of maintaining and

Specs include bi-directional winding, 28,800 bph (a smooth 8 ticks per second), power reserve 38 hrs, and construction in Switzerland of course.

They claim accuracy between -30 to +30 seconds a day, and this movement, in particular, is coming in at -1.8 sec/day – which is very well regulated – by Naoki’s own hands. It’s worth noting that I originally get a high reading, but only because I didn’t wind it fully before the test.

Final comments

The Gruppo Gamma Vanguard Mk IV AV-16 just oozes quality, from the tip of the buckle through to the top of the case. I love the aged steel finish – it’s something I’ve not come across before, and it’ll be quite possibly the hardest-wearing watch in my collection; it’ll never look “worn” as it already is. They’ve done a sensational job of creating a “Panerai” killer: a watch that takes vital hues from the popular brand and makes it their own. Really, the only thing is that the larger size of 44mm might be a turn off for some (I’d say avoid it if your wrist is less than 7”). Other than that, yes it’s $900 / £710, but the latest Vanguard is quite some watch.

The post Gruppo Gamma Vanguard Mk IV AV-16 (aged steel) Watch Review appeared first on 12&60.

Dan Henry is the man behind http://www.timeline.watch/, a place specialising in info on rare and popular vintage timepieces. He’s taken his expertise in this field and has created his own line of vintage-inspired watches. The 1964 is his very latest release.

My gut feeling was right; the whole package is impressive: you get a leather strap, bracelet, and genuine leather watch roll – all for under £200. For the unboxing process and to see what you get, watch the video review below.

Video Review

The specs

• Dimensions: 38mm diameter x 12.9mm height x 44.7mm lug to lug
• Weight: 52g on leather
• Water resistance rating: 5ATM / 50m
• Movement: Seiko VK63
• Lug width: 19mm
• Warranty: 1 year
• Price: $250 / ~£195
• Available from: https://danhenrywatches.com/products/1964-gran-turismo-chronograph

The case

Yes, 38mm is on the small side by modern standards but is in line with the vintage theme of the watch, and I personally think it’s a lovely size. Not too harsh or brash, but classy and elegant on the wrist.

The polished top of bezel and lugs are met with a brushed side (not all the way down the side though), again adjoined by the outer edge of the caseback, which is polished.

The screw-in caseback has an impressively deep and detailed 3D embossed Aston Martin DB5 in the centre; against a blasted backdrop. You’re not going to see it too often, but it’s impressive that you get the level of detail on a watch costing this much.

The high box-shaped crystal is impressive to look at. It’s sapphire coated mineral; so whilst this isn’t quite as good as a full-on sapphire, it’s going to be scratch-resistant enough, and can be overlooked for the price you’re paying. It’s double domed, so there’s a dome on the underside to counter-act the rather huge dome on top; the dome creates a really unique viewing experience. Not only that, the anti-reflective coating is truly stunning – not only is it really effective in providing excellent clarity, it also provides a beautiful flash of blue when the light hits it just right. Just be careful you don’t wallop it due to the height.

The pinion-style pushers for the chronograph are fully polished and are easy to use. They also provide a really solid clunk whilst using them, mainly thanks to the movement. The crown is also fully polished and has the DH from the logo deeply engraved on the end. It’s easy to use and manipulate.

The dial

Dan Henry has done a great job on the design of the 1964; I’ve yet to find someone who hasn’t been impressed by this watch. The dial is simple, striking, and so elegant.

There’s a beautiful sunburst backdrop that sets the scene; working really well with the subdials which have a bevelled edge and concentric circular pattern within.

The chronograph minute subdial is at 9, with the running seconds at 6 and 24-hour indicator at 3.

Not only is the crystal heavily domed, but the dial itself is also, and the minute and big seconds hands have curved tips to flow through the curve. Not really noticeable at a glance, but they look great close up.

The hour markers are all very well machined – pitched with a lumed block at the base and a pointed tip. They have a polished finish like the hands, providing a flash of reflection.

The hands are on the simple side, with a flat, polished finish and a pointed tip. They have a lumed channel within the end and do a decent job of balancing legibility whilst being eye-catching.

The date window located between 4 and 5 is neatly cut out of the dial, whilst the date wheel itself is a regular white one. If that’s the kind of thing that bothers you, then thankfully Dan Henry has provided a non-date version of this watch.

The lume used on the dial is LumiNova, and I’ve got be honest, it’s not really that great at all; it doesn’t glow particularly bright, nor does it charge quickly. I don’t particularly think string lume is absolutely required on a dress watch, so in my eyes, I’m not too bothered, but who doesn’t want strong lume whatever the case?

On the outer edge of the dial, where it slopes downwards, is the tachymeter very tastefully designed and printed.

The strap

It’s quite bold for Dan Henry to stick to his guns with the strap width too, being just 19mm wide it looks a bit on the thin side for a modern watch. But, this isn’t trying to be a modern watch.

The leather strap is constructed of soft, supple, high-quality leather. The light tan colour definitely also supports the vintage theme.

The tang buckle is fully polished, with the DH from the logo lightly etched on one side.

The bracelet

From a style perspective, I personally am not so keen on the beads-of-rice bracelet. However, I can certainly appreciate the quality of construction. Five rows of highly-polished bead links are interconnected, flanked by a wider end link with a brushed top and polished sides.

The buckle is a little different too which I like; brushed on top with the logo engraved at the base with a polished button which opens it up. It’s a standard deployant buckle underneath the hood; which feels a little flimsy when open.

Due to the nature of the bracelet, it’s extremely malleable and thus very comfortable.

The movement

The movement powering the Dan Henry 1964 is the Japanese made Seiko VK63. It has a very good reputation as being a hybrid “mecha-quartz” movement: it’s battery powered, with the main time function being quartz, and the chronograph function is driven by a mechanical module (also battery powered, so no winding). The beat rate of the chrono is 18k bph (5 ticks per second), and it has a 3-year battery life.

Final comments

Well, what can I say? I’m not over-exaggerating, but I’m genuinely pretty speechless. The Dan Henry 1964 is stunning to look at, with an irresistible build quality that far surpasses any expectations.

It clearly appears as if it should be worth much more than its humble price tag suggests. This much quality, plus the leather watch roll and two straps for under £200 ($250)? It’s been a very long time since I’ve been this impressed, and all I can say is if you dig it, get one before they sell out.

The post Dan Henry 1964 Gran Turismo Silver Watch Review appeared first on 12&60.

I’ve been keeping my eyes on Brellum ever since they smashed into the scene – offering visually beautiful watches that appear to be the same quality as luxury brands worth double the price. I’m pleased to finally get my hands on one.

Only 300 Brellum Duobox watches are produced each year, which is indicative of the exclusivity of this watch – however it still remains “affordable” for what it is, despite having a price tag of just shy of £1900. Let’s take a closer look to see if it truly is as good as it seems.

The specs

• Dimensions: 43mm diameter x 16.2mm height x 51.5mm lug to lug
• Weight: 120g
• Water resistance rating: 5ATM / 50m
• Movement: Brellum BR-750-1, base Valjoux 7750, COSC certified
• Accuracy: -1.5 s/d
• Lug width: 22mm
• Warranty: 2 years
• Price: CHF 2490 / ~£1890 / ~$2500
• Available from: https://www.brellum.swiss/en/shop/duobox/pandial/black/#DB.CH.332

The case

Why is this family of watches named Duobox? It’s because of the highly boxed sapphire crystals sitting on the top and within the caseback. They’re a sight to behold, supplying a dramatic view at tight angles. The anti-reflective coating is very good indeed, a flash of blue zaps across the crystal when the light catches it right. Perhaps it’s not quite Image level, but it’s still great.

The case measure 43mm in diameter, but it actually wears 42mm as the bezel sits wider than the case. This is a really neat touch, as it also doesn’t look as large as a 43mm usually would – this tucking in of the main case really tightens it all up.

Thee’s a variety of finishes; it is primarily brushed due to the sides of the case and the bezel section. A polished bottom ridge of the bezel is a nice touch, working well alongside the polished shoulders of the lugs.

The caseback has a polished ring around the edge and features splendidly deep stamped detailing. It showcases the movement effectively thanks to the aforementioned boxed crystal.

Thin bezel insert is most likely printed aluminium, with a tachymeter. It’s not too overpowering; framing the dial and boxed crystal well.

You control the chronograph by the polished pump-grip style pushers. The non screw-in crown has very interesting and delicate detailing engraved on the end, accurately and comprehensively completed.

A really great and not often mentioned point is the face that the inner sides of the lugs have two sets of holes – one set is what I assume is for standard straight straps, and one closer to the case for the curved strap provided so it fits snug around the curvature of the case.

The dial

The Pandial boasts a domed dial with plentiful of features and details. It’s known as a panda style – due to the contrasting subdials and dial base. The dial base itself has a gentle and subtle texture to it which is not noticeable until close up.

I always love a decent, heavy-duty applied logo, and that’s just what we’ve got with this Brellum. The logo icon is a Wyvern, a dragon like beast with wings, a bird’s body and a snake’s head. The printwork below the logo might be a bit too large, but I can see that it balances the subdial at 9 at this size.

The other applied hour markers are wonderfully detailed: with a lumed block at the angled base, and a slit at the top to mimic the distinctive style of the hands. They also have a lumed triangle stationed at the top.

The lume in general isn’t outstanding which is a shame, as there’s plenty of lumed elements; one particularly nice unexpected touch is the numerals within the minute track.

The dial has a telemeter around the outer edge, which can be used to measure distance using the difference between the speed of light and sound (say for instance, how far away a thunderstorm is). This outer scale actually has a very light concentric circular pattern within it, which is an unexpected level of detail.

The hands are a very distinctive yet bold and legible shape, almost like two edges of a sword split with a lumed central channel for part of the length.

The subdials are pleasantly detailed – with a concentric circular patterned base. The bottom subdial has the date window concealed within, in a similar colour making ensuring it remains subtle. The subdial at 9 for the running seconds is different in design, with a black centre and silver surrounding ring.

The strap

The strap is hand-made of Brown Zora calf leather. It’s soft and comfortable on the wrist, with a rustic and rugged top grain. The creamy detailed stitching complements the brown well. The strap is fitted with quick release pins, meaning they’re super quick and easy to change.

It’s curved at the top, meaning it fits around the case, creating a closer profile. I really like it – there’s much less gap than usual, also thanks to the extra set of closer holes in the lugs.

The deployant buckle has a large top bar, with the logo deeply and accurately engraved. It’s polished, and as you can tell it’s not great for scratches.

The movement

The movement is classed as the Brellum BR-750-1, which is basically an ETA Valjoux 7750 – quite possible the most well-known automatic chronograph available to date. It has 25 jewels, runs at 28,800 bph (8 ticks per second), with a 46 hour power reserve.

With a plentiful Côtes de Genève and blue screws. the movement is truly a beautiful masterpiece, especially at this price. Not only that, it’s also COSC certified. Using my Lepsi Watch Scope, it’s coming in at an impressive -1.5 sec/day.

The custom rotor is also very striking in appearance – with gold painted engraving and a Wyvern in the centre.

You get a fair amount of that classic “Valjoux wobble” – which is when the rotor is free spinning and ends up making the entire watch wiggle and move on your wrist. I personally don’t mind it, and it adds plenty of character to the movement.

Final comments

As I mentioned in my introductory notes, I only usually review watches over £1000 that truly offer excellent value for money.

Say you’re after a chronometer / COSC certified automatic chronograph. The majority of options will be almost double the price of the Brellum Pandial, especially from the bigger brands. However, what you’re getting here is a timepiece at a fraction of a price and near enough the same quality.

The overall level of finishing is superb. The movement is a joy to behold, and the detailing on the dial is literally as good as any of the bigger brands, such as Omega. The anti-reflective coating on the crystal probably needs to be even better to match the likes of Omega, but that’s all.

The design is striking and terrific – it’s a real eye-catcher, and I’m yet to find someone who doesn’t like it. Of course, £1890 is a lot of money. It’s not necessarily “affordable” as such, as it’s more than a lot of us can afford to blow on a watch. But, I can honestly say, it still offers tremendous value for money. You are getting a watch that is impressively made, with just as impressive specs, for less than you’d expect.

The post Brellum Pandial Black Watch Review appeared first on 12&60.

I’ve reviewed Helm’s Vanuatu (both the first release and the V2, the upgraded version), and can honestly say that it’s one of the finest affordable divers available; punching well above it’s weight for $275.

The Khuraburi is only $25 more, so it still looks to be a pretty epic watch for $300 / ~£215. Let’s take a closer look to see if this is the case.

The specs

• Dimensions: 42mm diameter x 16mm height x 49mm lug to lug
• Weight: 200g (with links removed)
• Water resistance rating: 30ATM / 300m
• Movement: Seiko NH38
• Accuracy: +4.2 s/d
• Lug width: 22mm
• Warranty: 1 year
• Price: $300 / ~£215
• Available from: http://helmwatches.com/khuraburi2.html

The case

With the crown at 10, the crown wears a little unusual – I like it as I wear watches on my left wrist and it keeps the crown clear from the back of my hand. Whilst the diameter of 42mm isn’t anything outrageous, the 16mm height is definitely on the tall side – so beware. The drilled-through lugs make changing straps much easier.

It’s entirely brushed which is hard-wearing and ensures longevity. The shape of the case is nice and rotund, with rounded sides breaking out of the barrel shape norm.

Sitting on top of the case is a double domed sapphire crystal – this watch is from the second Khuraburi production batch, with some slight modifications, one being that the crystal has been cut slightly differently to reduce the bevel that created some distortion around the edge of the dial. It’s rather reflective still: the anti-reflective coating not doing the best job.

The sapphire bezel insert is a pleasant, unexpected feature. The naturally reflective appearance is eye-catching and merges well with the crystal. The bezel action itself is a little on the stiff side for my liking; not the smoothest. It is very easy to use thanks to the decent toothed grip.

The caseback is updated in the second production batch too; the central H logo is deep–stamped rather than etched, and it really is impressively done for this price. The rest of the detailing is all accurate and deep.

The crown has a smooth thread and is really easy to use thanks to the huge grip. It has the Helm logo accurately and deeply engraved on the end.

The dial

The dial is exceptionally bold and legible – just look at those chunky hands and hour markers. The blue base of the dial is a pleasant change to the normal black you see so often; it’s not a super bright blue either – quite classy.

Pretty much the only issue I have with the entire watch is the printwork of the logo in the top half. It’s not standard printed like the details in the bottom half, but rather a thick shiny paint, and it doesn’t look right to me – the colour clashes with the colour of the dial base and looks a little bit tacky.

The hour markers are all applied, heavy wide arrows which provides a nice amount of depth to the dial. The subtle minute track is also on a higher level to the base of the dial, which support this feeling of depth.

The hands are a similar shape; very wide swords with a skeletonised base. The seconds hand is a straight stick with a lighter blue tip and a lume filled arrow.

The lume strength is great throughout the watch – matching well from the hour markers, to the hands, through to the bezel insert.

The bracelet / strap

The bracelet measures at 22mm wide at the lugs, tapering down to 20mm at the buckle. It’s super engineered and the thick, angular links are chunky and a sight to behold. The angular tops provide a variety of reflections in the light. They’re fully brushed with screw links – so the bracelet is easy to adjust, but make sure you tighten them regularly to stop them gradually coming undone.

The buckle is just as chunky – it’s single locking with the top flap, which has the Helm logo engraved on. It also houses 6 micro adjustment points so you’re definitely going to be able to get a perfect fit.

All Khuraburi’s come with a free NATO strap, which is a nice touch. It’s pretty standard quality so nothing exciting to mention. I also received one of the optional blue canvas straps, which is lovely and thick (albeit a tad stiff to begin with). Watch the video review to take a look at them.

The movement

The movement powering the Helm Khuraburi is the Seiko NH38. It’s the brother of the more popular NH35 – having pretty much exactly the same specs, apart from the omission of a day / date complication.

Specs include hacking and manual wind, 21.6k bph, 24 jewels, and ~40 hours power reserve. This movement is very well-regulated too, coming in at an amazing +4.2 sec/day – well within COSC specs.

Final comments

I thought the Vanuatu was a great watch. The Khuraburi, however, is so much better at a mere $25 more. I feel the design is a little friendlier; it’s sure to appeal to more people – but entire watch as a whole feels like an incredibly substantial timepiece for $300. The bracelet is delightful, the case is a nice shape and well finished (albeit a tad tall), it has great lume, and the sapphire bezel insert catches the eye.

The only negative is the way the logo appears to the eye, but you could class that as personal preference. I really can’t think of any reason why you shouldn’t buy one of these – it’s that impressive.

The post Helm Khuraburi Watch Review (02AL3) appeared first on 12&60.

Formex really impressed me with the AS1100, a motorsport themed automatic chronograph which was incredibly crafted for a seriously reasonable price.

They’ve now burst onto the scene with their latest range – the Element – boasting that it’s one of the best value Swiss Made automatic chronographs available. Their exact wording is that it’s “the most affordable high-end watch in the world” – quite the statement. It’s under £1,000, so whilst it’s not the cheapest Swiss auto chrono out there (for example the Tissot PRC200 can be had for around ~£700), when you consider the sheer nature of this watch you can immediately tell you’re getting something out of the ordinary.

Let’s take a closer look to see if their statements are true.

The specs

• Dimensions: 46mm diameter x 16mm height x 54mm lug to lug
• Weight: 160g
• Water resistance rating: 10ATM / 100m
• Movement: ETA Valjoux 7750
• Accuracy: -1.3 sec/day
• Lug width: 24.5mm
• Warranty: 3 years
• Price: £995
• Available from: https://www.formexwatch.com/en/product/1200-1-8011-322/

The case

The case is constructed of 38 individual components, and is a real feat of engineering for this price point. It offers a variety of brushed, mirror-polished and sandblasted finishes. Let’s just start from the top and make our way down. It’s pretty huge at 46mm in diameter and 16mm high, so this may be a turn off for some immediately.

The bezel has a vertical brushed top and polished chamfered edge, with another smaller brushed ring around the base. There are 4 cut outs in each corner for the screw heads of the suspension system to poke through.

Within the bezel is a flat sapphire crystal, and just like the AS1100 it has a delightful anti-reflective coating. A decent AR really makes the difference between a good and a great watch; and the beautiful clarity here is stunning.

This brings us onto the case proper. Angular, aggressive, whilst soft to the eye. An exposed sandblasted central barrel sits within a brushed edged border.

Moving onto the case suspension system, one of the issues I found on the AS1100 was the wobbly pushers to allow the suspension to operate. It’s great to see that improvements have been made on the Element to allow the suspension to operate freely, but now the pushers remain steady and fixed in place – much better quality in construction.

The pushers are fully polished and moulded to follow the flow of the case.

The push / pull crown is large to match the case, with thick grip and a hexagonal cut out at the end with a sandblasted inner.

The caseback has a simple form, with a heavily smoked exhibition window in the centre. This is a real shame as I want to see the movement but the window is just too dark. A frosted ring surrounds it with the logo / model name / specs raised and brushed within. the model and serial numbers are lightly laser etched on the top two corners.

The dial

The dial is a slightly more simple affair than the case; but refreshingly so. I decided to go for the white version rather than the black brushed alternative – not only is it cheaper, but I also think it’s classier. With a glossy top it looks like ceramic, but it’s actually a regular brass dial with a satin paint and lacquer finish. The reflective nature of the paint is a sophisticated touch.

The 7750 movement dictates the layout of the dial: running seconds at 9, chronograph minutes at 12, chronograph hours at 6, and the day / date indicator at 3.

The main minute and hour hands are a pleasant and interesting shape, a slightly rounded sword with a brushed top, and polished edges. They have a skeletonised section at the base and a lumed tip. The seconds hand is a thin pointed tip with a brushed top and the counterweight is a similar shape to the hour markers.

All subdial hands are the same, and are a miniature version of the main hands. The running seconds hand is on the same layer as the rest of the dial, with a small print mark at each corner and 60 and 30.

The two subdials at 12 and 6 are at a slightly lower level, introducing a very subtle appearance of depth. They have a very light concentric circular pattern within which brings a small small amount of texture. Surrounding them is a metal chapter ring intricately manufactured with painted markings.

The day and date indicator has the Formex logo printed above and Element below, and has a horizontal brushed finish and polished edges.

The applied hour markers are all batons with a lumed channel down the centre – with a double at 12. It has a brushed side borders and slight tuck in at the corners. This shape is reused a lot throughout the dial which is a nice touch – in the hands, hour markers and the day / date indictor surround.

The lume is average, which is a shame – it would be epic if the lume was awesome too. But alas, we can’t have everything.

The rehaut has printed minute track. unfortunately it’s fractionally misaligned – it’s hard to notice; and is the only negative I’ve been able to spot on the Formex Element apart from the smoked caseback.

The strap

You get brown and black options for the leather strap, with crocodile and plain oiled textures. They come with quick release pins (I think all straps should) so switching between them is a doddle: check the video review, I switch the straps in about 30 seconds. It’s a weird lug width – just over 24mm (approx 24.5mm), so really you’re unlikely to find a perfect fitting after-market strap. However, the quality of them indicates you won’t need to.

Both straps I have are lovely and soft; the brown crocodile stamped option has a lovely colour and lighter stitching that compliments the oaky colour well.

The black strap has a gentle, matte texture to it, with a sporty contrasting white stitch. Both have that strong, distinctive leather smell which proves to me the quality of materials.

The folding butterfly clasp is another marvel of engineering. It features a patented fine-adjustment which allows you to extend or reduce the size by approximately 6mm. it’s super easy to use – just literally a push of a button and you glide it into position. This is genuinely a great addition – I find as the day progresses my wrist can swell or contract depending whether I’m feeling hot or cold so this helps keep a comfortable wear. The clasp is made of carbon fibre, with a soft consistency which feels pleasant on the wrist.

The buckle’s top bar is a trapezoid shape, with the logo deeply engraved. it has a brushed top, polished shoulders and a central sandblasted channel. Two rounded and polished pushers release the buckle.

The movement

The movement powering the Formex Element is the venerable ETA Valjoux 7750. It’s ubiquitous in terms of automatic chronographs – as legendary as the ETA 2824 is for standard automatics. Initially released in 1973; the fact that it’s still getting used today shows how influential and highly regarded this movement is: a serious workhorse. Just don’t change it during the hours of 22:00 – 04:00 as this can damage the date gearing.

It’s a tall beast at 7.9mm – that’s why all watches that house it tend to also have a fair amount of height. Other specs include a high beat rate of 28.8k bph, 25 jewels, and 44 hours power reserve.

My Lepsi Watch Scope is tracking this 7750 at an incredibly accurate -1.3 sec/day. That’s well within COSC specs and shows some impressive regulating.

Final comments

The Formex Element has shifted my perspective of many watches I own and review.

It’s that good.

When I see a microbrand that’s Chinese Made and housing a Miyota movement – for half this price, it’s hard not to think that if you double your money you can get a Swiss Made automatic chronograph of this calibre. Of course, £1,000 is a lot – no doubt about it – but it’s just such an incredible masterpiece it’s taken my breath away.

Negatives? Hmm. The exhibition caseback is way too dark – I want to see the 7750. The rehaut is misaligned by literally a fraction of a mm too which is a shame.

For me, their statements ring true. The Formex Element looks and behaves like a high-end timepiece, feels like one too, but realistically is at least half the price you’d expect to pay. Simply put, it’s blown me away. I love it.

The post Formex Element Watch Review appeared first on 12&60.