This year’s event featured an impressive lineup of brands, including Beaucroft Watch Co, Benjamin James Watches, Boken, Bold Timepieces, Bvor Watches, Christopher Ward, Duckworth Prestex, Edward Christopher, Escudo Watches, Farer, Fears, Golby Watches, Great British Watch Company, Helicon Watches, Isotope, Marloe, MHD, Monro, Pinion, Pompeak, Schofield, Sidereus Watches, Studio Underd0g, Timor Watch, Van Brauge, Vertex, Watches of Lancashire, R. Day Watches, and Zero West. The diverse selection offered something for every enthusiast, from traditional timepieces to cutting-edge designs.

The Midlands location was chosen for its accessibility, providing a convenient alternative to the often congested London watch events. Visitors appreciated the ease of travel and the relaxed environment of Solihull. This decision paid off, as many attendees noted the comfortable setting and ample parking, making the experience enjoyable and stress-free.

Quotes from visitors highlight the event’s success:

Looking forward to next year!

A really great event, and a great opportunity to get closer to the brands, watches, and people that make this hobby so much fun.

This was my first watch exhibition. What a great relaxed environment. Loved it and will be back next year!

An excellent way to see the best of British watchmaking in the metal.

WatchIt! 2024 was my first watch event. I had a great time talking to all the brands and handling watches in the metal that you cannot see on the high street. I cannot wait for the next one!

The event far exceeded my expectations. Admittedly I went along because it was local and I wanted to see a particular piece from one of the exhibitors but came away having discovered some great brands I’d never heard of previously.

My second year at the WatchIt Watch Fair and in spite of the distance from Leeds to Brum it’s definitely worth it. To get hands-on with the watches from the brands and chat with, in most cases, the guys who created them is wonderful. I will be going to the next one for sure.

Exhibiting brands were equally enthusiastic about the fair:

Another great event! We’ll be back next year for sure.

Thank you to Josh & team for accommodating our first time at WatchIt! We’ll be back!

Well-organized, good selection of brands and managed to attract a good number of quality watch enthusiasts, buyers, and collectors.

The 12&60 events are simple and easy, meaning no overly complicated communications and setup. Simple as show up, do the work, go home. The event format we have been asking for years. Different locations, easy parking, and good value so that multiple events can be scheduled for the year. Well done Josh.

A great show for the true watch enthusiast!

The WatchIt! Watch Fair provided a unique opportunity for watch lovers to interact with the creators behind their favourite brands, see the latest models in person, and experience the craftsmanship firsthand. The event’s relaxed and welcoming atmosphere allowed for meaningful conversations and a deeper appreciation of the art of watchmaking.

The fair also strategically placed itself well in the horological calendar, giving enthusiasts plenty of time between other major watch events. This timing, coupled with the fantastic selection of brands, ensured a well-rounded experience for all attendees.

As the watch fair concluded, the anticipation for next year’s event began to build. The success of the 2024 iteration has set a high standard, and with positive feedback from both visitors and exhibitors, the “WatchIt! Watch Fair” promises to continue being a highlight in the British watchmaking calendar.

The post WatchIt! Watch Fair 2024 Recap appeared first on 12&60.

Date: Saturday 22nd June 2024
Times: doors open at 11am, end around 5pm
Location: Village Hotel Solihull, B90 4JG

If you want to join us, please visit the WatchIt! Watch Fair page for free tickets.

Whilst I have you, why not make it an entire weekend of British Watchmaking, and do something on Sunday too?

The Museum of Timekeeping is hosting their annual summer show Friday 21 – Sunday 23 June at their home in the English village of Upton.

The event will be a grand celebration of horology and will feature a unique exhibition of watches, clocks a n d horological art by British makers.

This curated exhibition will showcase work by some forty contemporary makers including George Daniels, Charles Frodsham &Co., David Walter, John Harwood, Sinclair Harding, James Harris, Studio UnderdOg, Malcolm Wild and Schofield Watch Company. The event will also have art from David Penney, One Hour Watch and Vecthor Animation.

You can learn more about the The Museum of Timekeeping here, and you can buy your tickets to the The Museum of Timekeeping Summer Show here.

The post The WatchIt! Watch Fair is next Saturday! appeared first on 12&60.

A Lighthouse of Inspiration

For 15 years, Schofield has been guided by the stoic presence of lighthouses, and The Light is a testament to this enduring inspiration. Breaking away from the shackles of uniformity, this watch is a fresh take on Schofield’s design ethos. The Light comes in two intriguing colors – The Light One and The Dark One, each limited to a mere 150 pieces, adding an exclusive touch to this functional timepiece.

Why “The Light”?

Don’t let the name fool you; The Light is no lightweight. It’s called so not because it’s cheap, but because it’s the most budget-friendly watch Schofield has ever created. The use of Seiko’s automatic, mechanical movement keeps the brilliance alive without burning a hole in your pocket. However, the Light isn’t just about affordability; it draws from the symbolism of lighthouses and coastal beacons, reflected in its design details.

The Light’s Distinctive Features

The case of The Light is where tradition meets innovation. The heavy box sapphire crystal, a brushed bezel, and the asymmetrical dial print redefine the aesthetics of field watches. The crown at 4 o’clock is a departure from Schofield’s norm, featuring ‘wheel arches’ as protectors. The case back is a canvas, showcasing an intricate artwork of the lighthouse, the horizon, and stars, visible through tiny apertures. The Dark One version adds a touch of mystery with its PVD-coated gunmetal grey case.

Legibility Redefined

Classic Schofield legibility takes center stage with The Light’s dial. Open, uncluttered, and designed for ease of reading, the raised number track and perfectly lacquered hands ensure a clear view. The GMT hand completes one rotation every 24 hours, adding a delightful quirk to the reading experience.

Straps That Speak Volumes

The Light One and Dark One come with two straps – the coveted India Rubber for water resistance and smarts, and a new grey leather lined with a pop of bright red calf. Branded Sugar Free, these 22mm straps fit normal Schofield buckles. The buckle for The Light is the intricate Obscura buckle, adding a touch of sophistication.

Schofield’s Passionate Journey

Schofield Watch Company’s roots lie in a personal endeavor that grew into a commercial venture. Giles Ellis, the man behind the brand, is obsessed with detail, ensuring every aspect, from accessories to packaging, exudes passion and vision. The Light is the latest chapter in this passionate journey.

Technical Harmony

Behind The Light’s elegance lies robust technical details. Powered by a Seiko NH34A movement with 24hr GMT, boasting a 44-hour power reserve and 200m water resistance, it’s a blend of form and function that Schofield is renowned for.

Experience The Light at the “WatchIt! Watch Fair”

Want to witness The Light’s brilliance in person? Schofield invites you to their booth at the upcoming WatchIt! Watch Fair in June. For those eager to secure a limited-edition piece or dive deeper into the Light’s story, schofieldwatchcompany.com is the place to be.

The Light is more than just a watch; it’s a beacon of innovation, affordability, and Schofield’s unwavering commitment to craftsmanship. So, are you ready to illuminate your wrist?

The post Discover the Light: Schofield’s New Field Watch Illuminates Tradition with a Twist appeared first on 12&60.

With a rush of excitement coursing through me, I dialled up my buddy to spill the beans about my next big move – buying a Hublot! However, his response left me utterly flabbergasted.

“Oh, Hublot?” He remarked casually, “It’s just a flashy showpiece.”

“What do you mean ‘flashy showpiece?’ ” I retorted, feeling defensive of my favorite brand. “Hublot boasts expertise, innovation, craftsmanship, heritage, unparalleled opulence, and unequivocal panache.”

“I know, that’s not the point,” My friend responded, unmoved by my arguments.

Continuing the conversation, he posed a compelling question: “Who’d you pick? Kim Kardashian with her flashy lifestyle or J.K. Rowling, a literary luminary with unparalleled imagination?”

Deflated by my friend’s dismissive response, I hung up the phone.

Is it true? Is Hublot just a facade, a hollow symbol of status devoid of substance?

Today, we delve into the age-old debate of Hublot vs Breitling. Why? Because it’s time to separate the substance from the spectacle, to unravel the mysteries behind the marketing hype and delve into the heart of what truly makes a timepiece remarkable.

The Origins of Hublot and Breitling

In the year 1980, when Carlo Crocco founded Hublot, the world was experiencing a wave of change and innovation. Luxury brands such as Patek Philippe, Rolex, Gucci, Louis Vuitton, and Chanel were gaining prominence, offering consumers a range of upscale apparel, accessories, and leather goods. However, there was also a growing interest in avant-garde designs and innovative materials, paving the way for newcomers like Hublot to make their mark.

Crocco sought to disrupt the traditional watchmaking industry by introducing a bold and avant-garde approach to timepiece design. Inspired by his own Italian heritage and a desire to challenge the status quo, Crocco introduced the world to the Hublot brand. Over the years, Hublot has changed hands several times in terms of ownership. In 2008, luxury conglomerate LVMH acquired the brand, providing it with the resources and support to further expand its reach and influence in the global market.

While Hublot emerged onto the horological scene in 1980, Breitling’s roots stretch back over a century before Carlo Crocco’s time. Founded in 1884 by Leon Breitling, the brand predates the birth of Crocco himself, showcasing a lineage steeped in centuries-old tradition and craftsmanship. This centuries-old tradition is ingrained in the very fabric of the Breitling brand, making it a formidable competitor in the realm of horology. While Hublot is owned by the French luxury conglomerate LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton SE, Breitling is privately owned by the Swiss investment company CVC Capital Partners.

The Battle of Aesthetics: Design and Finishing Touches of Hublot and Breitling Watches

From its inception, Hublot has dared to defy expectations. It is therefore unsurprising that Its design ethos is a bold departure from the conventional norms of watchmaking. Hublot finds inspiration in the fierce and expressive works of modern artists. From abstract paintings to avant-garde sculptures, each piece serves as a catalyst for Hublot’s imagination, sparking new ideas.

For example, the vibrant colors and dynamic shapes of a modern art installation may influence the design of a Hublot watch dial, while the sleek lines and bold textures of a designer garment may influence the design of its watch case. Just as a Lamborghini commands attention with its sleek lines and dynamic curves, Hublot watches captivate the eye with their unmistakable aura of power, prestige and sophistication.

This is not the case for Breitling at all. Unlike Hublot, Breitling’s design ethos is rooted in a rich tradition and functionality, rather than daring experimentation and avant-garde aesthetics. Instead of drawing inspiration from contemporary art, fashion, and architecture, Breitling looks to its own heritage and the aviation industry for inspiration. As such its watches are evocative of the sleek and streamlined forms of aircraft and cockpit instrumentation.

The smooth curves of the case and lugs are reminiscent of the fuselage of a plane and every detail from the brushed steel of the case to the polished accents of the bezel and crown is meticulously polished to a mirror-like sheen, creating a sense of luxury and refinement that is second to none. Subtle design details such as engraved bezels and textured dials add depth and dimension to the overall look, while maintaining a sense of understated sophistication. So we find two distinct approaches to aesthetics and craftsmanship here.

Beneath the Dial: Movements of Hublot and Breitling

Hublot boasts a mix of in-house and outsourced movements, with a notable emphasis on avant-garde design and groundbreaking technology. While the Swiss brand does utilize some third-party movements, such as those from renowned manufacturer ETA, It has also made significant strides in developing its own in-house calibers.

After several years of research, Hublot released its first in-house movement, the Unico, in 2010. Every element of its manufacture movement is hand-finished to perfection. Since the introduction of the first caliber, several groundbreaking movements like the HUB9011 caliber (also known as the MP-11) with seven series-coupled barrels providing an extended power reserve of approximately 336 hours, or 14 days have followed.

On the flip side, Breitling’s approach to movements differs from Hublot’s in several key aspects. The brand’s first in-house movement, the B01 caliber, was introduced in 2009, a year before Hublot released its Unico caliber. Breitling’s focus has traditionally been on functionality and reliability so the brand’s movements are not as “avant-garde” or revolutionary as those of Hublot, they are nonetheless highly respected for their quality and performance.

Breitling has a long-standing tradition of producing chronometer-certified watches, with many of its movements undergoing COSC certification. The finishing techniques employed by Breitling watchmakers include polishing, brushing, engraving, and perlage, among others, to ensure that each component is meticulously finished to the highest standards.

Materials Used in Hublot and Breitling Watches

Hublot’s innovative approach to watchmaking is epitomized by its “Art of Fusion” ethos, which is centered around the daring use of unconventional materials. Hublot has experimented with innovative materials such as ceramic, carbon fiber, titanium, and sapphire in the making of its watches. Its proprietary alloy, “Magic Gold,” developed in collaboration with the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology in Lausanne (EPFL), is touted as the world’s first scratch-resistant 18K gold alloy.

Unlike Hublot, which is known for its cutting-edge and experimental approach to materials, Breitling tends to stick to more traditional and time-tested materials like stainless steel, top-grade metals such as the 316L antimagnetic stainless steel alloy, grade 2 titanium, and gold. So while Breitling emphasizes reliability and durability with its choice of materials, Hublot embraces innovation and creativity by blending traditional luxury materials with cutting-edge substances.

Hublot or Breitling: Which Holds Value Best?

Determining which watch brand holds its value better is a tough call. When it comes to resale value, neither Hublot nor Breitling fares exceptionally well in comparison to each other or to other luxury watch brands.

Hublot, with its bold designs and aggressive marketing, may catch the eye of fashion-forward buyers and celebrities, but that doesn’t always translate to strong resale value. Similarly, Breitling’s focus on functionality and aviation heritage appeals to a niche audience, but it doesn’t necessarily guarantee robust resale prices either.

However, Breitling’s vintage watches seem to have a bit of an edge over Hublot’s offerings. Vintage Breitling timepieces, especially iconic models like the Navitimer or Chronomat, have this historical significance that collectors just go crazy for.

On the other hand, when it comes to limited editions, both Hublot and Breitling have their fair share of releases, though Breitling’s limited editions often seem to have a bit more staying power in terms of resale value. Maybe it’s because Breitling tends to keep their limited editions more understated and focused on technical innovation rather than just flashy aesthetics, but that’s not to say Hublot doesn’t have its own limited editions that hold value, especially those tied to significant events or collaborations.

Conclusion

In conclusion, it’s you, the reader, who gets to decide which brand comes out on top in the Hublot vs Breitling debate. Hublot’s watches can evoke some pretty strong reactions. You either love them with a passion or can’t stand them with a vehement dislike. But hey, if Hublot’s bold designs speak to your sense of style, then who are we to judge? Beauty, after all, is in the eye of the beholder.

On the other hand, Breitling’s watches, with their classic designs and aviation heritage, have a more understated appeal that may resonate with a different set of tastes. There’s a certain timeless elegance to Breitling’s timepieces that transcends trends and fads. So, whether you’re a die-hard Hublot fan or a staunch Breitling supporter, there’s no need to condemn those who have a different opinion. Both Hublot and Breitling have already achieved victory by enriching the world of horology with their distinctive contributions.

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Crafting Timepieces with a Story

Every component of a Monarte watch has a unique story and purpose behind its creation. The brand aspires to merge the realms of art and horology, celebrating the exceptional work of Swiss watchmakers in a traditional manner. The dials of Monarte watches are a canvas of unique patterns, meticulously hand-operated to create a masterpiece. However, the artistry doesn’t stop there; each dial conceals a hidden meaning and writing.

For instance, the Monarte Squid Green features a hand-operated guilloche dial with a water drop wave-pattern. Encircling the dial is a discreet Latin inscription, “Tempus arsque coniuctae,” translating to “Time and art combined.” This attention to detail and hidden symbolism adds a layer of depth to each Monarte timepiece.

Exploring the Depths with the Monarte Squid

On March 12th, 2024, Monarte Watches is set to unveil its newest creation, the Monarte Squid. Inspired by the mysterious and legendary sea creature, the Squid pays homage to the giant serpent-like sea-creatures, with tales dating back to ancient times and the notorious Kraken.

Monarte envisions squids as magnificent and complex creatures that have existed in the deepest parts of the oceans for centuries, embodying the unknown and unexplored aspects of the ocean. The Squid timepiece combines the rugged, desolate nature of the deep sea with pure class and orderliness, encapsulating the essence of Monarte.

The Monarte Squid: Two Distinct Versions

The Monarte Squid comes in two versions: the Regular Edition and the Limited Edition.

Monarte Squid (Regular Edition)

• Production not limited
• Closed caseback with hand-drawn Squid
• In-house regulated Top Grade ETA-2824
• Customized rotor with Monarte logo
• 300m Diver’s ISO 6245
• Sapphire Crystal Triple AR Coating
• Bracelet with Double-sided Screws
• Diver’s clasp with extension
• Guilloche dial with hidden writings
• €1490 Retail
• Super Early Bird Price: 1199€
• Early Bird Price: 1249€
• Preorder Special: 1299€

Monarte Squid (Limited Edition 1/50)

• Limited Production /50 per color
• Exhibition caseback with Sapphire crystal
• In-house regulated Top Grade ETA-2824
• Gold-plated custom rotor with logo and Cote de Geneve
• 300m Diver’s ISO 6245
• Sapphire Sandwich Triple AR Coating
• Bracelet with Double-sided Screws
• Diver’s clasp with extension
• Guilloche dial with hidden writings
• €1990 Retail
• Super Early Bird Price: 1599€
• Early Bird Price: 1649€
• Preorder Special: 1699€

Monarte’s Artistic Watchmaking Process

Monarte Watches takes pride in its meticulous watchmaking process:

• In-House Regulations
• Tested In 6 Positions
• 72-Hour Quality Control
• Master Watchmaker Inspection
• 6 Months Process
• Impressive 5 Year Warranty

Unlocking Extraordinary Value with Pre-Orders

Monarte Watches offers an exclusive opportunity for watch enthusiasts to pre-order the Squid and unlock exceptional value. The journey begins with a $100 deposit, serving as a key to exclusive pricing.

Regular Edition Pre-Order Benefits:

Place your deposit now and secure the Super Early Bird price of just 1199€, a significant saving from the future retail price of 1499€. Your 100€ deposit will be deducted from this pre-order price, bringing your final payment to 1099€.

Limited Edition Pre-Order Benefits:

For those seeking something even more exclusive, the Limited Edition can be yours for a Super Early Bird price of 1599€, well below the eventual retail price of 1999€. Again, your 100€ deposit will be subtracted from this amount, leaving a balance of 1499€.

Monarte Watches invites watch enthusiasts and collectors to embark on this journey, securing a piece of pure artistry with the Squid timepiece, where complexity meets elegant simplicity. Don’t miss the opportunity to be part of the Monarte legacy as they redefine the intersection of art and horology.

The post Introducing Monarte Watches and the Squid: A Fusion of Art and Precision appeared first on 12&60.

A Smooth Satin Sandblasted Finish

In a departure from the original OPS model (reference 001/02/01), the new OPS (reference 001/01/01) boasts an uncoated stainless steel exterior, meticulously satin blasted for the first time. This unique surface finish imparts a well-balanced character to the watch. Depending on the lighting, it oscillates between a rugged tool with exceptional technology and build quality and an ethereal masterpiece, thanks to the interplay of light on its matte metal surfaces and sapphire box crystal.

Discreet TRTS Marking

Maintaining the discreet charm of the original OPS design, Sherpa Watches and The Real Time Show opted for a subtle collaboration marking. The TRTS initials are subtly engraved into the chestplate of the traditional diver’s helmet adorning the case back. Paying homage to EPSA, the vintage dive helmet serves as the company logo and symbolizes Sherpa’s commitment to reviving vintage models and technologies for a modern audience.

Partnering with The Real Time Show

The Real Time Show, a bi-weekly podcast offering an insider’s perspective on the watch industry, is hosted by Alon Ben Joseph and Rob Nudds. Known as the “insider’s insider” podcast, TRTS invites industry leaders to share their insights. The collaboration between Sherpa Watches and TRTS was conceived when hosts Alon and Rob, individually captivated by Martin Klocke’s watches, suggested combining the black OPS dial with a blasted steel case. This collaboration marks the first anniversary of The Real Time Show and sets a new standard for enduring partnerships in an industry often plagued by short-term collaborations.

Launch and Sales Concept

The Sherpa × TRTS OPS model is available for order now on the official website www.sherpawatches.com or by sending an email inquiry to info@sherpawatches.com. Embracing a business model designed to counter the prevailing FOMO culture in watch collecting, this collaboration is a core collection piece, destined to remain in the catalogue indefinitely.

High-Quality Compressor Watch

Maintaining the specifications of its predecessors, the Sherpa × TRTS OPS continues the legacy of the Ultradive and OPS models. Sherpa Watches founder and CEO, Martin Klocke, delved into decades-old Swiss archives to infuse modern design with vintage charm. The watch features the renowned waterproof case with bayonet compressor back closure (EPSA-STOP) and twin compressor crowns (MONOFLEX), originally designed by Ervin Piquerez SA (EPSA). Sherpa’s commitment to excellence is reflected in the ISO 6425 certification to 200m, ensuring accuracy, water resistance, and durability.

Good Vibes: Mantramatic Movement

At the heart of all Sherpa models lies a distinctive feature — the Mantramatic movement. Laser engraved with the Tibetan Buddhist mantra OM MANI PEME HUNG on two wheels, the movement exudes vibes of love, wisdom, and compassion. Following Himalayan Buddhist tradition, the gears rotate constantly, emitting positive energy from the wrist into the world, subtly impacting the wearer.

Giving Back

Sherpa Watches, true to its name, embraces a philosophy of giving back. A percentage of each watch sale will be donated to support projects in the Sherpa region of Nepal. The initial focus is on “Sagarmatha next” in the Khumbu region and the “Nepal Himalaya Sherpa Foundation” in Kathmandu, aligning with Sherpa’s commitment to making a positive impact in the communities that inspire its name.

Available with Various Rubber Strap Colors

Customers can personalize their Sherpa × TRTS OPS with a choice of rubber strap colors. The brand’s tropic straps are available in black, olive green, off-white, and orange, each accompanied by a custom-made clasp adorned with the Sherpa wordmark.

In conclusion, the Sherpa × TRTS OPS collaboration stands as a testament to enduring partnerships in the watch industry, challenging the transient nature of collaborations and fostering a deeper connection with collectors. With its timeless design, cutting-edge technology, and commitment to social responsibility, Sherpa Watches continues to redefine the landscape of horology, inviting enthusiasts to embark on a journey through time with style and purpose. Order your Sherpa × TRTS OPS now and become part of a legacy that transcends trends and stands the test of time.

The post Sherpa Watches Unveils Exclusive OPS Model in Collaboration with The Real Time Show appeared first on 12&60.

Anomaly-02: A 40% Off Spectacle

Building on the success of the truly sensational Anomaly-01 we reviewed, the spotlight is now on the Anomaly-02. This latest iteration is available at an enticing 40% off, showcasing Code41’s commitment to pushing the boundaries of watchmaking design and craftsmanship.

Christmas Chronicles Unveiled

Discover the enchanting discounts within Code41’s Christmas Chronicles. The NB24 chronograph comes with a 10% price reduction, while the Anomaly-T4 and Day41 models are adorned with a generous 15% off. Each watch is a testament to Code41’s dedication to providing a unique and immersive experience for watch enthusiasts.

Revolutionary Watchmaking

Founded in 2016 by Claudio D’Amore, Code41 is not just a brand but a revolutionary concept in watchmaking. Breaking away from tradition, Code41 engages its community actively in the creation of high-quality mechanical watches, fostering inclusivity, transparency, innovation, and excellence.

Transparent Horology 2.0

Code41 is proud to offer a transparent approach to watchmaking. Access the Total Transparency on Origin (TTO) label on the website to explore the origin of each watch component. This commitment to transparency has earned Code41 the trust of its community.

Community-Powered Decision Making

Code41 involves its community in decision-making processes, with over 500,000 members participating in referendums. This unique synergy empowers enthusiasts to co-create their dream watches, fostering a connection between the brand and its community.

Explore the Christmas offers live on Code41’s website and seize the opportunity to not just buy a watch but to be part of a horological revolution. Gift yourself or a loved one a timepiece that embodies the spirit of collaboration, innovation, and transparency that defines Code41. Act fast, as these extraordinary offers are available only until December 15th, ensuring this Christmas is marked by timeless elegance and unparalleled craftsmanship.

The post Unwrap Extraordinary Deals: Code41’s Special Christmas Offers appeared first on 12&60.

To commemorate this historic moment, Zero West Watches have created a very limited release of just 50 H2 timepieces with the dial design based upon the slip-turn indicator of the iconic Mk1 Hawker Hurricane and the date code of the battle’s Hardest Day – 18/08/40. Mounted in the watch back are discs of the rare and original metal, recast from the Rolls-Royce Merlin engine of P3708.

A turning point in WW2, this timepiece captures the epic story of the Battle of Britain, from its initiation by Germany’s Luftwaffe on the 10th July 1940 to its conclusion on the 31st October 1940. It was a battle fought by the few in dogfights over British shores in planes designed by Britain’s best aeronautical engineers. Sergeant Alexander Girdwood was one such pilot. Flying Hawker Hurricane P-3708 he engaged the enemy alongside legendary fighter ace Robert Stanford Tuck.

As part of 257 Squadron, Girdwood limped away from his burning plane during the Battle’s Hardest Day on the 18th August 1940. He fought again but P-3708 remained buried where it crashed on Foulness Island until its excavation in 1990. Girdwood would not see the end of the Battle of Britain but his bravery is not forgotten.

This ultimate sacrifice by him and many other pilots will forever be honoured by Churchill’s poignant words, ‘Never in the field of human conflict was so much owed by so many to so few.’

The Ticking of Time

The H2 is housed in a precision billet machined bead blasted case with black PVD Zero West DSL lugs. This 41mm timepiece has a distinct black dial with iconic L&R markings, period indexes with clearly defined avionics style hands. The classic dial is framed by a simple mirror polished bezel ring and the hands and dial are coated with SuperLuminova X1 pigment. The dial also references the date of Sergeant Pilot Alexander Girdwood’s dogfight above the Essex coastline on 18th August 1940, The Hardest Day, and the lat-long coordinates of Foulness Island where Hurricane P3708 was recovered. 

The back of the watch showcases a disc of the original metal recast and machined from the original Rolls-Royce Merlin engine of P3708. This precious casting is protected by a reverse printed sapphire crystal that records the plane and Churchill’s famous words.

This rare watch also features a brass finished locking crown a replica of the joystick gun-platform fire button, a feature once so familiar to those brave young RAF pilots during the Battle of Britain.

Limited to only 50 builds this timepiece is powered by a ‘Top Premium Grade’ SW200-1 automatic movement ensuring it never misses a beat and is fitted with a custom ZW aerospace grade rubber strap and buckle and like the case all designed in-house.

For further information check out: https://zerowest.watch/product/h2-hurricane
£3,700

More on this independent watchmaker

Zero West create British engineered-British designed timepieces from their bespoke studio and workshop at The Boathouse, Emsworth, Chichester. Old friends and ZW co-founders, Graham Collins and Andrew Brabyn have an obsessive passion for ‘time and place’ and their limited edition watches embrace important moments of distinctly British engineering on land, sea and air. Zero West have successfully paid homage to many great British moments in engineering history, through timepieces like their DB-1 Lancaster (the Dam Busters raid in WW2) and the FS-1 Flying Scotsman celebrating 100 years of Britain’s most famous steam locomotive. The brand are vertically integrated and distinctly different. Where else can you walk in to a studio, talk with the designers, see the watches being built in the workshop and look over a salvaged WW2 Spitfire Merlin engine?

https://zerowest.watch/

If you would like more information or would like to visit the design studio,

please don’t hesitate to call Andrew Brabyn on 01243 376 676.

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Tool Watches for Explorers With a Social Conscience

BŌKEN, (the Japanese word for ‘Adventure’), is headed up by owner and founder, Daniel Banks, who wanted to create a brand where style meets adventure. BŌKEN watches are said to be a vibrant expression of untamed spirit, crafted with precision for the modern-day explorer. It’s inaugural watch, the Nomad, is Swiss-made but designed in Great Britain. True to their philosophy, BŌKEN also align themselves with Just One Ocean and will donate a portion of its annual profits to them. Just One Ocean is a charity established to protect and conserve the oceans for future generations. They achieve this through raising awareness, undertaking research, and supporting the development of scientific knowledge.

Pick a Colour, Any Colour!

To my eyes, BŌKEN appears to have taken at least some inspiration from Doxa, and Breitling’s Superocean when designing the Nomad. This isn’t a negative as I like both, and the Nomad certainly isn’t a homage watch as it brings plenty of its own design elements and character to the table. My review watch is the Ember Blaze variant with vivid orange dial and black bezel, but a total of five dial and bezel combinations are offered, so there’s bound to be one that appeals to you. Aside from Ember Blaze, you can choose from Midnight Sapphire (blue), Solar Flare (yellow), Arctic Frost (white with white bezel), or Moonlight Onyx (white with black bezel).

The Case and Wearing Experience

The Nomad’s case diameter is 42mm and the thickness is 13.4mm. This is very much a modern tool watch designed to be used as such so it wears true to size, if not slightly bigger. It’s befitting that the Nomad uses a tonneau case shape that is simple and purposeful with no polished sections or bevelling. The relatively short wide lugs, aggressive looking bezel and grippy, well-sized crown combine very well and give the impression that this is a watch where functionality doesn’t play second fiddle to looks.

The case has circular brushing to its dial-side and rear, and linear longitudinal brushing to the sides. Case finishing looks to be exemplary, and in my opinion, BŌKEN has made the right choice by opting to craft the case and bracelet from grade 2 titanium. This not only helps keep the weight down and offers increased strength, but the darker greyish tone really looks cool, especially against the orange dial. For a titanium watch, it’s still fairly hefty, coming in at 129g on the bracelet when sized for my 7.25” wrist (as a comparable, my Tudor Black Bay 41 ETA in full stainless steel is 164g). If you’ve previously ruled out a titanium watch because you don’t like how light they feel, this watch might strike the right balance for you, as the perception of weight it gives on the wrist is somewhere between titanium and steel.

Water resistance is an impressive 300 meters, thanks to the screw-down caseback and screw-down crown, which is deeply knurled to provide ample grip, and etched with the brand’s logo. I’m a big fan of the unfussy case shape, but whilst the mid-case does have a nice gentle curve to it, I think comfort could be improved further if the curve was slightly more pronounced, or the overall thickness reduced with more of a taper at the lugs. I’d gladly sacrifice a decrease in water resistance to 200m if it helped. Rather than an etched crown logo I’d like to see deep engraving or maybe embossing. But let’s face it for most people, me included, ‘etched vs engraved’ detailing will be very low down the list of criteria when choosing a watch!

I particularly love the deep bezel design, which features wide toothing and provides extreme levels of grip, even with gloves on. The bezel insert is made from black ceramic and looks to be well executed with deeply etched numerals and markings. The glossy surface looks great against the matt grey of the titanium. The bezel on my prototype has a nice action, lines up perfectly and has no back-play.

The Straps

The quality of the three-link style titanium bracelet is excellent. Lug width is 22mm which tapers to 20mm, and links are secured using push-pins. The brushing on the links is very fine, consistent, and silky smooth. However, the outer sections of the clasp let it down. The deployant fold-over section, twin-trigger release mechanism and security latch need to be thicker, less sharp and preferably milled. I also wish BŌKEN had opted for female end-links to help keep the lug-to-lug measurement down. As it stands, with the non-articulating male end-links, I measure the total span across the wrist to be 55mm. Of course, the end links do have a slight curve to them, so the reality is that it wears somewhere in between the quoted 48.5mm lug-to-lug and 55mm. Half links are provided, and the clasp has three micro-adjustment holes, so you should have no problem achieving the perfect fit.

In addition to the titanium bracelet, the Nomad comes supplied with a high quality quick-release rubber strap which tapers from 22mm to 20mm and has a weave pattern to the topside, and ridges to the underside. The highlight of the rubber strap though must be the strikingly angular, branded, titanium buckle. Pairing the watch with the rubber strap helps constrain the span across the wrist to a true 48.5mm and keeps the weight down to 92g. Whilst I’m usually a bracelet guy, I have to say this watch looks right at home on the rubber strap and I think if I owned a Nomad, it would spend most of its time on this!

The Dial

If there’s one type of watch that orange is made for it’s a diver! The vibrancy just screams ‘holiday watch’, perfect for a day at the beach, a dive, or an adventure. It also serves a purpose as orange is widely considered to be the most legible colour under water.

The dial on the Nomad has a smooth matt finish, against which the blocky matt-black hands with needle tips contrast nicely. The minute track is printed in black onto the white, sloped rehaut. Bolder hash marks are used for every five minutes/hour and additional Arabic numerals are used at ten-minute intervals, beginning with 05.

On the Ember Blaze Nomad, the hands are all filled with Swiss Super Lumi-Nova C5 which glows brightly in low light and has a green/yellow colour (the four other colourways all have Super Lumi-Nova C1, which is a white compound). I found the lume on the hands to be excellent and I could tell the time throughout the entire night. However, the indices don’t glow as brightly as the hands, so they would certainly benefit from more layers of Super Lumi-Nova.

The block-style, applied stainless steel hour markers also feature C5 Super Lumi-Nova centre strips. The outer sections of the indices are cut at a shallow angle. In certain light they look to perfectly match the matt black handset, and in other lighting conditions, they reflect the light. I can’t say whether this was an intentional design decision, but either way, it really works.

A simple black-on-white date window sits at 3 o’clock. Black printed dial text comprises ‘BŌKEN 1988’ at 12 o’clock (1988 is a nod to when founder, Daniel was born), and ‘Titanium, 300m / 1000ft / automatic’ at 6 o’clock.

The dial is protected by a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal which has an internal anti-reflecting coating applied to the inside for enhanced legibility.

The movement

A Sellita SW200 Swiss automatic movement powers the watch and is visible through the sapphire exhibition window in the caseback. This workhorse movement is a mainstay for watch brands at this price level. It has a 38-hour power reserve and beats at 28,800 vph or 4Hz, giving a nice smooth sweep to the seconds hands. BŌKEN has added a custom rotor, bearing the logo and tagline ‘adventure awaits’. They’ve even gone so far as to regulate the movement to bring an improved accuracy rate of +/-12 seconds per day, which is very worthwhile improvement. Like the crown, it’d be nice to see engraving, embossing (or maybe skeletonization) used for the branding details on the rotor, but in the scheme of things, I appreciate this is nit-picking!

Final thoughts

The Nomad is a watch that ticks a lot of boxes. Not only is it good looking, but it’s tough, extremely legible and uses premium materials. A titanium watch, designed in England, made in Switzerland, with a Swiss movement, 300m water resistance and a ceramic bezel. You couldn’t really ask for much more in a dive watch.

It’s a great first outing from this fledgling brand, that could be made even better with a few improvements. My two biggest gripes concern elements of the bracelet, namely the stamped clasp and the male end links. My other negative is purely a subjective one, that of size. I would love to see the thickness reduced ever so slightly for the MKII. There was a slight misalignment of the 6’oclock applied index on my prototype watch, but when I mentioned this to Daniel, he was appalled. Even though I explained that it’s very minor, he said that any amount of imperfection is not good enough. This is clearly a man who cares about his products, and I have every confidence that Daniel will ensure that production models will be perfect!

The Nomad is a full-sized, modern dive watch with a true tool watch vibe and performance to match. With plenty of colour options to choose from, the BŌKEN Nomad is a very cool and more exclusive alternative to mainstream offerings from brands such as Seiko and Christopher Ward, and a cheaper alternative to brands such as Tag Heuer, Doxa, Sinn. Plus, with two quick-release straps provided as standard, you can achieve a different look in a matter of seconds! If you like the look of the Nomad, I’d suggest you get in quick at the Kickstarter price of £995. The Kickstarter campaign starts at 7.30pm, 15 October and finishes 12 November. Thereafter the price will increase to £1395.

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Cuxhaven and Bremerhaven aren’t just watches; they’re a toast to maritime history and the age-old art of watchmaking. The bigger versions (42.5 mm in diameter) used to be part of Laco’s collection until last year when they made way for something exciting. But guess what? The demand for these beauties never sank, and watch enthusiasts worldwide have been counting down the days for their big return.

Hold on to your ship’s wheel, because there’s more. Laco is introducing two watches with a smaller case diameter of 39mm. So now you can have all that vintage charm, in a more compact package. As for the dials – Bremerhaven rocks a bold black, while Cuxhaven goes for a glossy white. Both sizes dazzle with hands, numerals, and indices coated in Superluminova C3 for those late-night adventures. The Bremerhaven’s hour and minute hands are painted black, while the Cuxhaven’s hands are thermally blued, adding that extra oomph.

They also feature a small seconds window at 6 o’clock and a railroad-style minute track, all inspired by the classics. These watches don’t just look pretty; they’re precise too. The bigger models (42.5 mm) house a rare hand-wound ETA Unitas 6498.1 movement, while the smaller versions pack a Swiss-made Sellita SW261 movement. All of them sport tough sapphire crystal and a see-through back, so you can admire the exquisite craftsmanship inside. The Cuxhaven flaunts a beige calfskin leather strap that gets better with time, while the Bremerhaven comes with a sleek black leather strap that’s as timeless as the night sky.

Laco says; “With these new Cuxhaven and Bremerhaven timepieces, watch lovers can flaunt the fascinating history of maritime culture on their wrist. Each of these special watches is marked by Laco’s renowned quality and incomparable attention to detail”.

In a nutshell, these watches are the perfect blend of functionality and timeless elegance. Want to snag one for yourself? You can get your hands on them at Laco and authorized Laco retailers. The smaller, 39mm versions will set you back €1,290 (available from November), and the larger, 42.5mm ones can be yours for €1,690 (available from October).

So, if you’re ready to set sail on a nautical adventure without leaving your wrist behind, Laco’s got your back. It’s anchors aweigh with style!

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The ATOWAK SPACESHIP will launch on ATOWAK’s official website on Oct 24th, 11 AM EDT. The MSRP of ATOWAK SPACESHIP is $1,899, you can save up to 24% on launch day by signing up here now!

The ATOWAK SPACESHIP boasts a unique spaceship-inspired design that captures the essence of interstellar exploration. With precision-polished sleek lines and contours, the watch mimics the streamlined shape of a space vessel, symbolizing the boundless spirit of curiosity and discovery.

The patented wandering hour wheel design draws inspiration from the massive rotating gravity wheel at the rear of a spaceship, enabling you to embark on a time-traveling journey without losing sight of the mechanics. The integration of the second hand with the hour wheel adds a sense of slow roaming, connecting you to the vast universe with each passing second.

Crafted with meticulous attention to detail, the wandering hour wheel features exquisite craftsmanship. The large hour indicator discs, made from aviation-grade aluminum, have been meticulously polished to create a superior texture. Innovative indicators below each numeral assist users in achieving precise timekeeping, further enhancing the watch’s functionality.

In a break from tradition, the SPACESHIP utilizes an unconventional giant sapphire crystal design that provides an exceptionally wide field of vision. The crystal’s streamlined upper portion seamlessly fits with the overall case, while the flat bottom area offers a clear view of the time. This unique crystal, demanding several times the cost of regular crystal, reflects ATOWAK’s commitment to perfection in creating the perfect spaceship.

The case of the SPACESHIP comprises three pieces of 316L stainless steel, each meticulously crafted to showcase ATOWAK’s relentless pursuit of impeccable quality. The see-through case back features a subtle curvature, ensuring a snug fit on the wrist. Every component is precisely carved using CNC, maintaining accuracy within 0.03mm. The polished edges complement the matte finish, mirroring the brilliance of distant stars in the vast cosmos.

Inspired by spaceship command decks, the SPACESHIP’s floating crown features a creative and innovative design. Driven by a precise gear system comprising three gears, this floating crown system embodies ATOWAK’s commitment to technological exploration and advancement.

The hour discs and minute track of the SPACESHIP are filled with Swiss Super-LumiNova, providing clear time observation in dim environments. Symbolizing the spirit of exploring the unknown, this luminous feature guides us forward, whether in the dark night or the vast cosmos.

Designed for maximum comfort and functionality, the SPACESHIP’s strap features a quick-release system reminiscent of spaceship quick ejection systems. With a simple twist, the strap can be replaced without the need for tools. The FKM rubber strap is highly resistant to oil, acid corrosion, oxidation, and atmospheric aging, making it an essential feature for any adventurous journey.

ATOWAK invites you to join its interstellar journey that celebrates the spirit of exploration and the wonders of the universe. The ATOWAK SPACESHIP will launch on ATOWAK’s official website on October 24th, 11 AM EDT with a limited 300 pieces. The pre-launch is now available for sign-up here!

About ATOWAK:

ATOWAK has focused on expertly merging original ideas and fascinating methods of time display, and the company is obsessed with fine machinery, in which hundreds of delicate parts are interwoven and enmeshed together. ATOWAK seeks out countless ways to create unique structures and overcomes any obstacle to realizing each and every marvelous complication. ATOWAK teams devote themselves to making your time more unique.

For more information, please visit ATOWAK’s official website: atowak.com 

Watch Details:

• Watch Name: SPACESHIP
• Movement: Modified Miyota 9039
• Case Size: 53mm*42.5mm*16mm
• Case Material: 316L Stainless Steel
• Strap Width: 22mm/20mm
• Strap Length: 125mm/85mm
• Strap Material: FKM Rubber

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Drawing on the successful partnership with the German Armed Forces during the development of the Atacama.2, Laco has elevated its commitment to producing instruments of utmost reliability. Professionals across various fields, including law enforcement, fire departments, and the military, have attested to the dependability of the Atacama.2. Now, the Atacama Quarz UTC steps onto the scene, ready to deliver safety, resilience, and precision in even the most demanding scenarios.

The dial of the Atacama Quarz UTC comes to life with its luminescent elements. The Superluminova-coated hands, numerals, and indices ensure impeccable readability, whether under the blazing sun or the cover of night. The two-tone hands, with Superluminova C3 on the hour and second hands and striking orange on the minute hand, ensure optimal legibility from every angle, catering to the dynamic nature of its users’ lives.

One of the standout features of the Atacama Quarz UTC is its second time zone display. This enhancement is particularly useful for those individuals who need to juggle responsibilities across different parts of the world. The orange skeletonized arrowhead hand, accompanied by a corresponding 24-hour scale, serves as a constant reminder of time zones, making it an indispensable tool for globetrotters and professionals alike.

Diving into the details of the watch, the stainless-steel case of the Atacama Quarz UTC exhibits pressure resistance up to 20 ATM and is adorned with a black PVD coating, minimizing any unwanted reflections that might compromise visibility. The unidirectional rotating countdown bezel and the cleverly positioned crown at twelve o’clock embody Laco’s commitment to functional design. The crown, a critical component for water resistance, incorporates an orange ring as an indicator of its secure position, ensuring both safety and peace of mind.

Nestled within the robust case is the Swiss quartz movement Ronda 515.24H, a paragon of accuracy and efficiency. With minimal deviation per month and a GMT function for quick time zone adjustments, this movement guarantees impeccable precision. Adding to its utility, a white date window graces the dial at the six o’clock position, further enhancing legibility and functionality.

Despite the impressive technical features, Laco has managed to streamline the design. Thanks to the incorporation of the slim quartz movement, the case height measures a mere 10.5 millimeters. This innovation, coupled with a 46-millimeter diameter that offers a contact area of only 34 millimeters, ensures that the Atacama Quarz UTC fits comfortably even on narrower wrists. The durable yet comfortable rubber strap, secured by a PVD-coated stainless-steel buckle, remains unchanged. Additionally, the flexible lugs that connect the case to the strap adapt seamlessly to the wearer’s wrist, allowing for a snug fit.

Watch enthusiasts and aficionados can anticipate the Atacama Quarz UTC’s availability for presale through Laco’s official channels and authorised retailers starting from the end of August. The price point of €530 makes this timepiece an accessible yet exceptional choice. Delivery is scheduled to commence from mid-October, ushering in a new era of functional, precise, and purposeful horology.

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The allure of owning a Rolex watch is undeniable, but securing a brand new one has become increasingly challenging. The scarcity of new Rolex timepieces, coupled with high demand and long waiting lists, has led many watch enthusiasts and collectors to explore alternative avenues—enter the preowned Rolex market. Purchasing a preowned Rolex offers a viable solution to own an authentic Rolex without enduring the frustration of waiting for a new one. However, buying a preowned Rolex necessitates careful consideration and a discerning eye to ensure that you get the most out of your investment. In this article, we’re going to go through some top tips on how to navigate the world of preowned Rolexes.

1. Research and Educate Yourself:

Before delving into the preowned Rolex market, invest time in researching different models, variations, and prices. For example, if you’re interested in a classic diver’s watch, like the Rolex Submariner, study its various references, bezel options, and dial variations. Familiarise yourself with the specs, features, and history of the specific Rolex model you are interested in. Understanding the market value and the different factors that affect a watch’s price will empower you to make a more informed decision. Websites like Chrono24, with their historical data, can be an invaluable resource for research and comparing prices.

2. Buy from Reputable Sellers:

One of the most critical aspects of buying a preowned Rolex is to purchase from a reputable and trustworthy source. Seek out authorized Rolex dealers or well-established watch dealers with a solid track record. For instance, if you’re eyeing a vintage Rolex Datejust, look for dealers with expertise in vintage timepieces and a reputation for authenticity. Chrono24, being a trusted platform, connects buyers with certified dealers and private sellers, providing a secure environment for purchasing preowned Rolex watches online.

3. Check for Authenticity:

Counterfeit Rolex watches flood the market, making authentication a crucial step in the purchasing process. Examine the watch’s details, including the dial, bezel, case, bracelet, and movement, for any signs of inconsistency or poor craftsmanship. Request the watch’s serial and reference numbers and have them authenticated by Rolex or an authorized service center. Chrono24’s Verified Dealer feature ensures that sellers have undergone thorough screening to provide authentic and genuine products.

4. Inspect Condition and Maintenance:

A preowned Rolex’s condition is a significant factor in its value and longevity. Look for signs of wear and tear, scratches, and dents on the case and bracelet. While some wear is expected, excessive damage may indicate poor maintenance. Ask for the watch’s service history and ensure that it has been regularly serviced by Rolex or a certified watchmaker. Chrono24 allows sellers to provide detailed images and descriptions, allowing you to assess a watch’s condition more effectively.

5. Bargain with Caution:

While negotiating for a better price is standard in the preowned market, be cautious when encountering deals that seem too good to be true. Unrealistically low prices might signal a counterfeit or a watch in poor condition. If the price is considerably lower than the average market value, ask questions and do thorough research before proceeding. Chrono24’s Price Trend feature can help you gauge a watch’s market value and identify any unusual price fluctuations. If it’s too good to be true, it probably is!

6. Focus on Popular Models:

Popular Rolex models tend to hold their value better over time, making them a safer investment. Timepieces like the Submariner, Datejust, and GMT-Master II are considered classics and are more likely to retain or increase in value. Lesser-known models may be more affordable upfront but may not offer the same long-term investment potential. On Chrono24, you can find a vast selection of popular Rolex models from various sellers worldwide, increasing your chances of finding the perfect preowned timepiece.

7. Verify Documentation:

A genuine preowned Rolex should come with its original box, papers, and warranty card. These documents provide essential information about the watch’s history, authenticity, and service history. Always request these documents and verify their authenticity. Chrono24’s reputable dealers typically include comprehensive documentation, offering you peace of mind in your purchase.

8. Size and Style Matters:

Consider your wrist size and personal style when choosing a preowned Rolex. Rolex offers a variety of case sizes and bracelet options, so try on different models to find one that fits comfortably and complements your style. Whether you opt for the elegance of a vintage Rolex Datejust or the sportiness of a Submariner, finding the right size and style that suits you is crucial for a satisfactory ownership experience.

9. Pay Attention to the Movement:

Rolex is known for its precision movements, and different models come with various movements. Research the specific movement of the watch you’re interested in and verify that it matches the stated specifications. For example, if you’re looking at a preowned Rolex Explorer II, ensure that the watch’s movement, whether it’s the older or the newer GMTs, meets your preferences.

10. Trust Your Instincts:

Lastly, trust your gut feeling. If something feels off about the deal or the watch itself, take a step back and reevaluate your decision. Don’t rush into a purchase that doesn’t feel right. Remember, a preowned Rolex is an investment, and finding the perfect one for you might require patience and careful consideration.

11. Bonus tip: Decide on the Worth:

Ultimately, it’s up to you to decide if the higher price of a preowned Rolex, compared to a new one, is worth it. Consider factors like availability, demand, condition, and the watch’s history. While purchasing a preowned Rolex can offer immediate gratification, it also represents an opportunity to own a piece of horological history that has already stood the test of time.

In conclusion, purchasing a preowned Rolex can be a rewarding experience for watch enthusiasts and collectors alike. By applying these top tips, such as researching models like the Submariner, Datejust, GMT-Master II, and Oyster Perpetual, buying from reputable sellers like those found on Chrono24, verifying authenticity, and inspecting the condition, you can confidently find a beautiful and authentic Rolex timepiece that suits your style and budget. And remember, a preowned Rolex can become a cherished piece of horological history to be enjoyed for generations to come.

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