Akerfalk is a microbrand from Sweden that heavily emphasizes Scandinavian minimalism in its designs. Priced at roughly $411 USD (£299), the Chronograph Panda features a Seiko VK-64 Meca Quartz movement, 24-hour subdial, and a 1-hour chronograph. Available in four colorways, the Panda is the only one to come with a mesh steel bracelet.

The Panda is made well, with no obvious blemishes on the dial, case, or caseback. The Panda colorway is safe and reserved; fans of the aesthetic will appreciate the simplicity of both the style and movement. However, if you want something more daring, you’ll want the Lake or Forrest colourways, which add a bold dose of colour to the dial.

Akerfalk has been in the space for several years now and offers free global shipping and a 2-year warranty. For those seeking a minimal piece with a mechanical chronograph, Akerfalk’s chrono is a good, albeit a touch pricey, option.

Scoring

• Design & Style: 4
• Performance: 4
• Build Quality: 4
• Value for Money: 3.75

Pros

• Good dial legibility day or night
• Strong lume
• Classic Panda aesthetic is done well

Cons

• $400 for a Mecha Quartz and K1 mineral crystal
• Mediocre water resistance

Full Review

Five years ago, we reviewed Akerfalk’s First Season, their inaugural entry into the world of minimalistic microbrand watches. Like the Chronograph we are reviewing today, the First Season was a Swedish take on contemporary minimalism.

In their design of the First Season, Akerfalk used a silver/gold color scheme for hands, along with a 24-hour dial configuration, establishing a clear brand aesthetic that they carried forward into their follow-up model, the Second Season. 

Unlike the First and Second models, the Chronograph’s dial is in the more common 12-hour configuration, with a small 24-hour subdial at the 3 o’clock position. But the hour and minute hands are still silver and gold, respectively, with a strip of lume embedded in their centre.

Available in four colourways – standard, Forrest, Lake, and Panda – Akerfalk’s Chronograph is a minimal take on sporty watches, with the Panda colorway the most sport of all of them.

Akerfalk provided me this watch at no-cost in December, 2023 for this review. I do not have a financial relationship with Akerfalk. To date, I have reviewed more than 200 watches; my personal collection sits at 44 timepieces (including several from when I went down the vintage Seiko and Timex rabbit holes).

Akerfalk Chronograph Panda Specifications

• MSRP: $411 USD / £299
• Where to Buy: Akerfalk.se
• Warranty: 2-year
• Movement: Seiko VK-64 Meca Quartz
• Diameter: 42 mm
• Crystal: Domed K1 mineral
• Water Resistance: 50 meters / 165 feet
• Colorways: 4 colorways
• Complications: 24-hour dial, 1-hour mechanical chronograph

Design

The Panda aesthetic can be hit or miss wherever it is used, and thankfully, it’s a hit here. Akerfalk has spent the better part of a decade making minimal work, and it looks good when deployed on this 42 mm chronograph.

Using a 42 mm case helps space the dial out, with a black outer ring contrasting against the light inner dial, printed hour markers, and black subdials.

Per the Panda profile, the use of colour is limited, and in this case, the chrono’s seconds hand, 24-hour subdial’s hand, and the chrono start/stop pusher are given the orange treatment, while the minute hand is a subtle gold.

The ample use of steel, black, and grey tones helps the orange stand out, but at a distance you’ll hardly notice since the orange tone is relatively light. This is especially true for the second hand, which can get lost against the light dial. This is a chronograph that leans more heavily towards form over function, but telling time is easy enough, and even easier if you give it more than a passing glance.

Low-light visibility is surprisingly good, with strong lume on the hour and minute hands as well as the 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock hour markers.

As good as the Panda colourway looks, though, my pick of the bunch is definitely the Lake variant, where the orange hands pop off the blue-green dial.

On the Wrist

A 42 mm case is about the largest I can get away with, and the slim profile of the lugs and appropriately-sized pushers keep the Chronograph from feeling oversized.

The deployant clasp has a relatively thin profile – thinner than the typical version found on leather straps, at least – and tucks under a long-sleeve shirt easily. Also, I am pleased to report that I have only had a couple of arm-hair-pinching moments since I’ve started wearing the watch (always a risk with a mesh bracelet…)

Case, Crown, Odds, & Ends

The polished case is a safe accompaniment to the dial, and aside from the orange start/stop pusher, there isn’t much about the case to note. It does look handsome with the included steel mesh bracelet (with deployant clasp), though I think that the black leather strap included on the Forrest and Lake colorways would probably sell the racey aesthetic better.

The crown – which is a screw-down crown, by the way – is knurled and easy enough to manipulate. The pushers also engage with a satisfying tactile click when pressed.

But I have to ask: why use a screw-down crown if the intended water resistance is only 50 m / 165 ft? It’s not a bad inclusion, but seems unnecessary given the rest of the watch does not prioritize water resistance.

The steel mesh bracelet with deployant clasp feels robust and not-quite heavy; it is easy to open and close, and feels secure when you’ve clasped it shut. The stainless steel clasp is as good as any other that you’d find at this price point.

I’ve opted to use one of Akerfalk’s images of the caseback in place of my own since polished casebacks like this scratch very easily. One piece of recurring feedback I have for watch brands is that the casebacks can be more interesting than a feature dump.

Akerfalk is going in the right direction with their forest engraving, but they could take it a step further and make the caseback something really interesting! Appreciating that the VK-64 meca quartz movement isn’t anything visually worth writing home about, leaning into the brand’s natural aesthetic in a more significant way would up the wow factor.

Movement & Functions

The Seiko VK-64 Meca Quartz is the mechanical movement made for watch enthusiasts that want their wristwatch to feel like a mechanical watch, but don’t actually want to deal with the downsides of having a mechanical movement.

In the VK-64, a battery and quartz crystal are used to power the actual timekeeping. With a battery life in the 3-5 year range, and with accuracy in the ~15 seconds per day range, you shouldn’t need to adjust the watch too often.

The mechanical portion of the movement exclusively powers the chronograph function, giving the seconds hand a familiar “ticking” motion that we’ve come to associate with mechanical timepieces.

The VK-64 is generally reliable and not a bad choice at this price point.

Conclusion

With a safely minimal design, reliable and low-maintenance movement, and sensible sizing, Akerfalk’s Chronograph is a fine watch for the money.

The Panda’s biggest downside is that it’s too safe, too minimal, and one of many that took Marie Kondo’s lessons to heart when designing their dials. Even with Akerfalk’s signature silver/gold hand combination, the Panda is unlikely to stick with you. But, if that’s what you want your wristwatch to be, the Lake and Forrest colorways offer the same minimal aesthetic, but in a much more striking colour combination.

You can get yours directly from Akerfalk here.

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Joshua, WIAA frontrunner and watch enthusiast extraordinaire, reviewed the First Season nearly 2.5 years ago, as did I just a couple of months prior to that. Both reviews were complimentary of the minimalist Swedish timepiece, and I’m happy to say that my second go with the brand has proven to be an appropriate follow up.

The Same, but Different

Aesthetically, the Second Season plays on the strengths of the First, but also differentiates itself in three meaningful ways:

1. First, the Second Season sizes down from 40mm to 36mm, making it a true unisex size. 40mm is far from large for today’s watch cases, but it’s fair to say that many women and people with smaller wrists find a 40mm case a bit big. After I dropped weight from 280lbs to 190lbs, my “preferred” 42mm case size became 38mm, with my “preferred range” anywhere from 36mm to 42mm on the high end (though I very much prefer 40 and under).
2. Second, Akerfalk has made some slight design changes to the dial that differentiates it while also throwing a tasteful nod to the original. Gone are the dots that adorned every hour marker (alongside the Arabic numerals), and in their place is an alternating Arabic/dot dial. The model designation just about 6 o’clock has also been updated, replacing a classical script font with a more contemporary sans-serif choice.
3. Like the dial, the lug size shrinks 10% to 18mm from 20mm. Again, this smaller size makes the watch more accessible without appreciably reducing its pool of buyers. It also keeps the proportions aligned and preserves its aesthetic identity.

These three changes are quite small and unlikely to be your “game changer”, but given the downsizing of the case, these small reductions go far preserving the feeling of minimalism of the first. Despite a 10% reduction in overall size, the Second Season feels just as spacious and open as the First.

Importantly, both the First and Second season are for sale alongside each other. The Second Season is not a replacement for the first; it is a complementary piece that offers wearers more options when picking their wrist companion of choice.

The Second Season Preserves its Charm

What made Akerfalk’s inaugural watch notable was that it was one of the few 24H dial watches available from a microbrand in 2019 that used a Swiss movement. Here we are staring down 2022 and still, 24H dial micros are uncommon.

Perhaps 24H dials are viewed as a novelty by some, but I personally don’t see them that way. I like the pacing a 24H dial brings to timekeeping, and I like being able to use my watch as a true allegory for progression throughout the day.

But, most importantly for this Akerfalk, I like how the dial and watch are put together. The watch is an excellent example of where less adds up to more. A few touches I appreciate:

• The domed K1 mineral crystal – Of course I’d prefer sapphire from a longevity point of view, but the aesthetic appeal of the domained mineral crystal is high and hard not to love.
• The dual-tone hands – Silver for hours, gold for minutes. I’m not sure if that’s a play on where you ought to prioritize your time, but I like to think of it as a subtle encouragement to value the present moment more than the ones to come.
• The caseback, which is nearly identical to the first season outside of revised finishing. The Second Season’s caseback is a satin/silk finish vs. polished one as seen on the original. The forest scene and descriptive copy remain more or less unchanged.
• The continued use of quick-release spring bars, which makes swapping the 18mm straps a trivial affair. Every casual or dress watch made today should come with a quick-release spring bar, if only because they preserve the integrity of your lugs (tell me you haven’t scratched a lug while changing a strap).
• The Horween leather remains as plush, pliable, and comfortable as ever. A definite step above the typical strap you’d find on a sub-$300 watch.

But It’s Not Perfect

While the Second Season is a great follow up to the first, there are a few things I’d change if I could:

• The water resistance rating + screw-down crown – Akerfalk claims 5 ATM / 50 M / 165 ft of water resistance rating, which is fine, but it’s odd that the WR rating is only 5 ATM given the use of a screw-down crown. I don’t mind screw-down crowns, but I prefer them to be used on applications that warrant it. You don’t need a screw-down to hit 5 ATM.
• The lack of any lume – Recognizing that it’s not uncommon for a dress watch to eschew lume in the name of style, that does not appear to be the need here. The printed hour markers could easily have been filled with lume, alongside a thin inlay for the hands, and you’d have a functional after-dark watch. As it sits, the Akerfalk makes it tough to tell time for ~12 of the 24 hours it reports opn.
• The mineral crystal is among the most reflective I’ve ever encountered – And while it has never prevented me from telling time, it has definitely made that goal more difficult to achieve (especially outside or in a brightly-lit space).

Consider that the above list is after spending nearly six months around my wrist – pretty minimal feedback, I’d say!

Final Thoughts on the Akerfalk Second Season

My style clearly aligns on the “less is more” motif, and in that way, Akerfalk’s entire range speaks to me. I like the clean, uncluttered lines and the focus on minimalism and simplicity. From an aesthetic standpoint, the Second Season is not a “stunner” in the traditional sense, but it is a fine looking watch and one that I think will complement just about every wrist.

Considering my criticisms lie with minor things and the crystal, it’s very fair of you to assume that, if you like how the Second Season looks, you’ll also like how it wears. The weight, size, and style all combined to create a timepiece that is at home on your wrist.

Given the cost of things in today’s world, the Akerfalk Second Season feels like an acceptable buy at its MSRP of $275 USD.

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The Akerfalk First Season takes inspiration from the classic vintage era of the 60s; personally, I find it very striking and quite possibly the nicest 24-hour watch I’ve come across. Let’s check it out.

The video review

The specs

• Dimensions: 40mm diameter x 10.4mm height x 47mm lug to lug
• Weight: 53g
• Water resistance rating: 5ATM / 50m
• Movement: Ronda 515.24H
• Lug width: 20mm
• Warranty: 2 years
• Price: £189
• Available from: https://akerfalk.se/collections/watches/products/first-season-silver-white-black-leather

The case

The Akerfalk does not utilise just a standard barrel which is good to see. Instead, it’s curvaceous, slender and certainly vintage inspired – primarily due to the highly domed crystal and thin, spindly lugs.

I find the size is perfect for my 7.25” wrist, and the slender height allows it to be easy to wear under a cuff. The case is polished in its entirety, and due to the fluid nature of how it’s formed, it reflects the light in a variety of ways.

The Akerfalk First Season is fitted with a K1 hardened mineral crystal. This may put some off as it’s not sapphire, but I’ve never had an issue with hardened mineral before. The primary selling point behind the K1 crystal is that it’s more scratch resistant than mineral, and more shatter resistant than sapphire, so in many manufacturers eyes, the best of both worlds. Whatever the case, the crystal is massively double domed: it provides beautiful clarity to the light dial and the distorted edges create a wonderful view. It’s certainly a key feature for the 60s vintage theme.

The crown is splendid – I love the shape, and to my surprise it’s screw-in. The shape is like an upside-down cupcake paper cup which is refreshingly different. It’s also rather dainty which suits the size of the case well and is fully polished, with effective grip and is accurately manufactured.

The caseback is simple but interesting; a sort of round porthole in the centre with a forest silhouette at the top. Various specifics surround the outer edge, all in a thin, delicately engraved typeface. It’s also fully polished to complete the entirety of the case – but just be careful of any scratches as you pop it down.

The dial

For me, the most striking aspects of the dial are: firstly, the beautiful subtle champagne colour, and secondly, the usage of both steel and gold for the hands. It’s incredibly classy and certainly has that 60’s vibe.

The colour of the dial is delightful, at certain angles it has an aged feel. The simple, crisp and delicate printwork works really well on top: with a combined minute track and hour indication around the outside, as well as the logo in the top half, and the model name and country of origin in the bottom half.

It appears to be domed around the edges, following the highly domed crystal. I love the depth this technique provides; it’s also a real eye-catcher.

The hands are a thin index shape, both are polished, but the hour hand is steel whilst the minute hand is a gold colour. They both work so well with the watch; tying the case and dial together perfectly. I feel they are the stand-out feature that I immediately loved.

The straps

You get the choice of three different straps: leather, nato, and Milanese mesh.

I’ll be honest, I wasn’t expecting an amazing quality leather strap. I thought it was going to be a bit on the thin side, and nothing special. Well, how wrong I was! The strap is impressively thick yet supple, with a pleasantly soft top grain. The soft black hue works in contrast to offset the lighter dial.

The strap comes fitted with a standard tang buckle, fully polished to match the case. The logo is laser etched on one side of the top bar – personally, I’d have preferred it to be engraved.

The nato strap that comes with the watch isn’t anything too exciting, but the green works pretty well with the dial. Interestingly, the tang buckle is exactly the same apart from the logo is engraved rather than laser etched.

There’s also the option of a Milanese mesh bracelet. The mesh is tight and neat, and it’s rather thick, showcasing the quality. The logo is engraved on the buckle, which is easy enough to adjust. I was pleasantly surprised to find quick-release pins on this bracelet too, which means you can switch out the straps and change the look within a minute.

The movement

The movement used is the Ronda 515.24H – which is basically the 24-hour version of their standard trusty quartz movement (the 515). Using this movement means that the hour hand has been connected to the 24-hour pinion rather than the normal hour pinion. It also means that the hour hand can now be set quite independently from the minute hand (crown’s second step) as well as normally (crown fully pulled out). It has 1 jewel and 45-month battery life.

Final comments

I believe Akerfalk have created a beautiful timepiece that is the perfect option for those who are after a vintage-inspired watch that’s a bit different. The dial is an excellent example of effective, simple design. There’s not a lot to it, but it’s so clean, crisp and striking. I love the hands, the flowing case, and the highly domed crystal. Yes, it’s not sapphire, but in this instance, I believe the K1 hardened mineral will suffice. It’s a great all-rounder, and the 24-hour aspect of it sets it apart from the crowd.

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