Due to the low production volumes I’ve not managed to get my sticky mitts on this one in person. However, I can say that Sebastian appears to have put together a compelling package for CHF 3150 (under £2900 at time of writing). Keep reading to find out why I think the Pilot GMT LE.2 could be an exciting alternative to equivalent watches from mainstream brands.

About Brellum

Brellum was founded in 2016 by Sébastien Muller, a fourth-generation watchmaker who gained valuable experience working for other top brands, before switching his attention to making watches under his own name. In less than a decade, this independent Swiss brand has gained a loyal following amongst watch enthusiasts prepared to look beyond the high street. The brand sets itself apart from many other by offering small-production quantities and limited-edition watches, with high levels of finishing, design prowess and timekeeping precision.

Inspired by avionics instruments, ready for modern travellers

The Brellum Pilot GMT LE.2 has a diameter of 41.8mm and a case thickness of 11.7mm. However, if you include the top and bottom sapphires crystals it’s a more substantial 15.9mm thick. It’s certainly a full-sized watch, but considering it incorporates GMT and chronograph functions, that’s to be expected. The dimensions also allude to the fact that this is a watch where function is every bit as important as design, and this makes for quite refreshing change in a time when vintage sizing is prolific.

Whilst the watch is inspired by avionics instruments, it drops the austere white on black colour combo found in cockpits, in favour of a blue opaline dial. The blue dial brings a nice pop of colour whilst retaining the high level of legibility associated with avionics. The balance is just right here, as the dial could have easily become too busy if Sébastien had introduced too much colour. As it is, the dial is about as attractive as a GMT chronograph gets in my books.

At the outer edge of the dial, you’ll find the minute track and 24-hour register for the GMT function, printed in white. The main hour markers are a mix of satinated applied Arabic numerals with generously applied Super-LumiNova, and printed blocks of pure Super-LumiNova for the 12, 3, 6 and 9 hour markers. This should give a strong glow to ensure excellent legibility in low light.

The large chronograph registers sit on their own layer beneath the main dial. You’ll find the 30-minute counter at the 12 o’clock position, the chronograph seconds at nine, and the 12-hour register at the six o’clock position, which also houses the date window, printed black on white. Dial markings for the chronograph functions are printed.

The distinctive, brushed hour hand and minute hand manage to be both sporty and elegant, and again feature Super-LumiNova. The same shape is also used for the chronograph hands. The red-tipped seconds hand has a lovely diamond-shaped counterbalance, and the GMT hand culminates in a skeletonised red arrow. For those that aren’t familiar with a GMT, the additional hour hand can be independently set, and makes it easy to track a second time zone. The handset choice throughout is well considered and the same colour red is used for the ‘GMT’ dial text within the 30-minute sub-dial.

Case finishing looks to be very good and comprises brushed and polished finishes to the stainless streel, with bevels that widen towards the outer lugs. Completing the dial-side package, we have an embossed signed crown, and gorgeous box sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on the inside. Water resistance is 100m.

To the rear you’ll find a stainless steel caseback secured by screws and deeply embossed with some of the watch’s specifications around the circumference. The large exhibition window is crafted from sapphire crystal and given anti-reflective treatment to the inside. The choice to display the Brellum BR-754 GMT automatic movement (based on the Valjoux 7754) was a good one as it’s attractive and has been decorated to a very high standard, with blued screws, perlage and Geneva stripes. A stunning customised 4N gold coated rotor proudly displays the individual number of your watch (e.g. ‘Limited edition 01/23’) and features a silhouette of a fighter plane. Like all of Brellum’s watches, the movement is officially COSC certified too, so the watch has chronometer levels of accuracy, within +4/-6 seconds per day. The movement has a power reserve of 46-hours and beats at 28,800.

The Pilot GMT LE.2 Chronometer comes with a brushed and polished stainless steel bracelet with deployment buckle, and a custom-made blue Nubuck Pilot strap with contrast stitching. Strap changing tools are also included.

Final Thoughts

To my eyes, this watch is a thing of beauty, and whilst I find myself leaning towards more modestly sized watches nowadays, I’m very happy to make exceptions for watches that have additional complications. The Brellum Pilot GMT LE.2 is certainly a fully featured watch, with no less than three complications – a GMT function for tracking a second time zone, and chronograph function for precise timing, and a date window – so the fact that it’s a larger watch is entirely appropriate. In fact, combined with the impeccable dial design, its larger size is partially what makes this watch so successful as the legibility looks to be exceptional. Form and function have been given equal billing here. The Pilot GMT LE.2 Chronometer not only looks good, but it has clearly been designed to be used as a tool. The whole package is very well balanced, with no area left as an afterthought.

Despite this, some prospective buyers might still be put off by the thickness. As I’ve not got hands-on with this watch, I can’t say for sure how it wears on the wrist, but I’d imagine is wears somewhere in-between its ‘case only’ dimensions (11.7mm) and ‘with crystals’ dimensions (15.9mm). For others, the biggest barrier will be not being able to see the watch in the flesh. However, if you get past this and you’re the sort of person who likes to stand out from the crowd and you’re prepared to look outside of the established mainstream brands, surely the Brellum has to be on your shortlist. In fact, if you’re scouring the market for GMT watches with chronograph functions it won’t take you long to realise that pickings are scant. So when you then consider that this watch is Swiss made, chronometer certified with a fully decorated movement, produced in very limited numbers, and beautifully designed and engineered, you could argue that it’s a bit of a bargain for sub-£3k.

With just 23 pieces of this limited edition available, if you like the look of what’s on offer, you’d better get your skates on!

The post Discover the new Brellum Pilot GMT LE.2 Chronometer, where function and form unite appeared first on 12&60.

Before we talk about the watch, let’s talk a little about Brellum as a company. The independent brand is run by fourth-generation watchmaker Sebastien Muller, a man who founded the company having spent a quarter of a century working in the industry. 

It’s this wealth of experience that makes Brellum what it is today. The brand prides itself on attention to detail, and as such never produces over 299 watches a year. Each timepiece is individually tested to ensure accuracy, water resistance, and power reserve. Such thoroughness is reassuring, and it’s one of the key benefits of small brands like Brellum. 

Furthermore, each movement is a COSC-certified chronometer, which is another feather in the brand’s cap. Few companies bother to offer certified chronometers, let alone send off every single watch for testing. 

As you can see, Brellum obviously has a focus on quality, so let’s take a look at their latest release…

Specifications

• Case size: 43mm
• Thickness: 11.7mm (excluding crystal), 15.9mm (with crystal)
• Case material: 316L Stainless steel
• Crystal: Box sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
• Water resistance: 100m
• Luminescence: Super-LumiNova applied to hands and indices
• Calibre: BRELLUM BR-750-2 Automatic COSC-certified chronometer (ETA 7750 base)
• Power reserve: 46 Hours
• Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, Day/Date window, 12 hours chronograph, stop second, tachymeter
• Strap: Integrated Nebur Tec strap and stainless steel bracelet
• Price: $2,950 / £2,490 / €3,000 / CHF 2,750
• Availability: Limited to 33 units, available from Brellum’s website

The Design

For the Pandial LE.1 Brellum chose a striking blue and white colour scheme that’s pleasantly reminiscent of Omega’s Snoopy Speedmaster. Apart from looking very summery, the contrast on this Pandial looks to be exceptional. With chronographs it’s always important to be able to easily distinguish the subdials, and the bold blue of the ones on the LE.1 make them stand out brilliantly against the white dial. 

In fact, the Pandial LE.1 does a good job of packing a lot of features without looking crowded. The watch offers a variety of extra functions, including a tachymeter scale, day/date display, and of course a 12-hour chronograph. 

For the LE.1, the water resistance has been improved from 50m to 100m. It’s a small change, but one that’s much appreciated. Though the LE.1 isn’t a dive watch, it’s always good not to have to worry about getting your watch wet.

The steel case measures a sizeable 43mm, but it’s only 11.7mm thick excluding the crystal. This means that the Pandial LE.1 should have a strong wrist presence without appearing oversized. The box sapphire crystal brings the total height to 15.9mm, which should add a nice vintage touch to this very clean design. The crystal also has an anti-reflective coating to help reduce glare and improve legibility. 

In addition to the Pandial’s standard 5-link steel bracelet, the LE.1 comes with the model’s first integrated Nebur Tec strap. This fabric strap offers a more casual option  that’s perfect for summer, and comes equipped with a deployment buckle. 

The Movement

Like the other Pandials, the LE.1 uses a Brellum BR-750-2 movement, which is essentially a modified ETA 7750. The 7750 has long been one of the go-to automatic chronograph movements, and it’s well-known for its reliability. It features 25 jewels, a 46-hour power reserve, and beats at 28,800 bph.

The 7750 is a solid movement, but in true Brellum style, they’ve gone the extra mile to have each movement chronometer-certified by the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC).  

To round things off, the movement is beautifully decorated with perlage, Geneva stripes, blued screws, and a gold-coated custom rotor. Such a high level of movement finishing isn’t necessary, but it’s another thing that demonstrates Brellum’s attention to detail and commitment to producing beautiful, high-quality timepieces. 

Final Thoughts

In many ways, it’s a shame that the new Pandial LE.1 is limited to just 33 units, because it looks like an exceptional chronograph that ticks a lot of boxes. But I suppose that’s part of the charm of an independent brand such as Brellum. You’re not buying a mass-produced product that’s churned out in the thousands, you’re getting a limited, high-quality product that’s been individually tested.

As for the watch itself, the Pandial LE.1 is certainly an impressive addition to the Brellum range. With its clean design, solid specifications, and chronometer movement, I think it offers everything you could want in a quality mechanical Swiss chronograph. 

The Pandial LE.1 is priced at £2,490, which is an exceptional price for a watch of this quality, and that figure also includes free worldwide shipping. 

You can purchase the watch directly from the Brellum website here. 

The post Introducing The New Brellum Pandial LE.1 Limited Edition appeared first on 12&60.

I’ve been keeping my eyes on Brellum ever since they smashed into the scene – offering visually beautiful watches that appear to be the same quality as luxury brands worth double the price. I’m pleased to finally get my hands on one.

Only 300 Brellum Duobox watches are produced each year, which is indicative of the exclusivity of this watch – however it still remains “affordable” for what it is, despite having a price tag of just shy of £1900. Let’s take a closer look to see if it truly is as good as it seems.

The specs

• Dimensions: 43mm diameter x 16.2mm height x 51.5mm lug to lug
• Weight: 120g
• Water resistance rating: 5ATM / 50m
• Movement: Brellum BR-750-1, base Valjoux 7750, COSC certified
• Accuracy: -1.5 s/d
• Lug width: 22mm
• Warranty: 2 years
• Price: CHF 2490 / ~£1890 / ~$2500
• Available from: https://www.brellum.swiss/en/shop/duobox/pandial/black/#DB.CH.332

The case

Why is this family of watches named Duobox? It’s because of the highly boxed sapphire crystals sitting on the top and within the caseback. They’re a sight to behold, supplying a dramatic view at tight angles. The anti-reflective coating is very good indeed, a flash of blue zaps across the crystal when the light catches it right. Perhaps it’s not quite Image level, but it’s still great.

The case measure 43mm in diameter, but it actually wears 42mm as the bezel sits wider than the case. This is a really neat touch, as it also doesn’t look as large as a 43mm usually would – this tucking in of the main case really tightens it all up.

Thee’s a variety of finishes; it is primarily brushed due to the sides of the case and the bezel section. A polished bottom ridge of the bezel is a nice touch, working well alongside the polished shoulders of the lugs.

The caseback has a polished ring around the edge and features splendidly deep stamped detailing. It showcases the movement effectively thanks to the aforementioned boxed crystal.

Thin bezel insert is most likely printed aluminium, with a tachymeter. It’s not too overpowering; framing the dial and boxed crystal well.

You control the chronograph by the polished pump-grip style pushers. The non screw-in crown has very interesting and delicate detailing engraved on the end, accurately and comprehensively completed.

A really great and not often mentioned point is the face that the inner sides of the lugs have two sets of holes – one set is what I assume is for standard straight straps, and one closer to the case for the curved strap provided so it fits snug around the curvature of the case.

The dial

The Pandial boasts a domed dial with plentiful of features and details. It’s known as a panda style – due to the contrasting subdials and dial base. The dial base itself has a gentle and subtle texture to it which is not noticeable until close up.

I always love a decent, heavy-duty applied logo, and that’s just what we’ve got with this Brellum. The logo icon is a Wyvern, a dragon like beast with wings, a bird’s body and a snake’s head. The printwork below the logo might be a bit too large, but I can see that it balances the subdial at 9 at this size.

The other applied hour markers are wonderfully detailed: with a lumed block at the angled base, and a slit at the top to mimic the distinctive style of the hands. They also have a lumed triangle stationed at the top.

The lume in general isn’t outstanding which is a shame, as there’s plenty of lumed elements; one particularly nice unexpected touch is the numerals within the minute track.

The dial has a telemeter around the outer edge, which can be used to measure distance using the difference between the speed of light and sound (say for instance, how far away a thunderstorm is). This outer scale actually has a very light concentric circular pattern within it, which is an unexpected level of detail.

The hands are a very distinctive yet bold and legible shape, almost like two edges of a sword split with a lumed central channel for part of the length.

The subdials are pleasantly detailed – with a concentric circular patterned base. The bottom subdial has the date window concealed within, in a similar colour making ensuring it remains subtle. The subdial at 9 for the running seconds is different in design, with a black centre and silver surrounding ring.

The strap

The strap is hand-made of Brown Zora calf leather. It’s soft and comfortable on the wrist, with a rustic and rugged top grain. The creamy detailed stitching complements the brown well. The strap is fitted with quick release pins, meaning they’re super quick and easy to change.

It’s curved at the top, meaning it fits around the case, creating a closer profile. I really like it – there’s much less gap than usual, also thanks to the extra set of closer holes in the lugs.

The deployant buckle has a large top bar, with the logo deeply and accurately engraved. It’s polished, and as you can tell it’s not great for scratches.

The movement

The movement is classed as the Brellum BR-750-1, which is basically an ETA Valjoux 7750 – quite possible the most well-known automatic chronograph available to date. It has 25 jewels, runs at 28,800 bph (8 ticks per second), with a 46 hour power reserve.

With a plentiful Côtes de Genève and blue screws. the movement is truly a beautiful masterpiece, especially at this price. Not only that, it’s also COSC certified. Using my Lepsi Watch Scope, it’s coming in at an impressive -1.5 sec/day.

The custom rotor is also very striking in appearance – with gold painted engraving and a Wyvern in the centre.

You get a fair amount of that classic “Valjoux wobble” – which is when the rotor is free spinning and ends up making the entire watch wiggle and move on your wrist. I personally don’t mind it, and it adds plenty of character to the movement.

Final comments

As I mentioned in my introductory notes, I only usually review watches over £1000 that truly offer excellent value for money.

Say you’re after a chronometer / COSC certified automatic chronograph. The majority of options will be almost double the price of the Brellum Pandial, especially from the bigger brands. However, what you’re getting here is a timepiece at a fraction of a price and near enough the same quality.

The overall level of finishing is superb. The movement is a joy to behold, and the detailing on the dial is literally as good as any of the bigger brands, such as Omega. The anti-reflective coating on the crystal probably needs to be even better to match the likes of Omega, but that’s all.

The design is striking and terrific – it’s a real eye-catcher, and I’m yet to find someone who doesn’t like it. Of course, £1890 is a lot of money. It’s not necessarily “affordable” as such, as it’s more than a lot of us can afford to blow on a watch. But, I can honestly say, it still offers tremendous value for money. You are getting a watch that is impressively made, with just as impressive specs, for less than you’d expect.

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