Design and Aesthetics

First off, the Glacier Blue dial is an absolute showstopper. It’s defined, classy, and has that intriguing quality that keeps you glancing at your wrist throughout the day. The trend of offering various dial colours is something I’m all for, and Christopher Ward has nailed it with this one. While there are other colour options, the Glacier Blue stands out for its unique charm.

The watch’s case is a neat 36mm in diameter, just under 10mm in height, and has a lug-to-lug length of 40.8mm. These dimensions ensure a comfy fit, especially for those who prefer something a bit more discreet. I was initially leaning towards the 40mm version, but my growing preference for smaller watches—thanks to the comfy fit of my Omega Planet Ocean 39.5mm—led me to choose the 36mm. I have no regrets. It feels incredibly comfortable on my 7-inch wrist, lightweight, and perfect for all-day wear.

Wearability and Comfort

One of the highlights of “The Twelve” is how easy it is to wear. The slim profile, under 10mm, means it slides easily under a cuff—perfect for those who often wear dress shirts. The screw-in crown, adorned with the twin-flags motif and flanked by subtle but effective crown guards, adds to the watch’s robust yet elegant profile.

The twelve-sided bezel with its scalloped look is another unique feature. It not only adds a bit of flair but also enhances the overall refined look of the timepiece.

The integrated bracelet, made from marine-grade stainless steel, is a masterpiece. It tapers nicely and is secured by a concealed butterfly clasp, which is both practical and stylish. The bracelet’s finishing is top-notch, with brushed surfaces complemented by polished edges. The underside is rounded and brushed, making it soft and comfortable on the wrist. This level of detail is what sets Christopher Ward apart.

Movement and Performance

Inside “The Twelve” is the Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement. This 26-jewel movement runs at a frequency of 4Hz, translating to a smooth eight ticks per second. It offers a 38-hour power reserve and an in-built anti-shock system, ensuring accuracy even when subjected to sudden movements. The exhibition caseback reveals the movement, with the rotor being the only mention of the brand’s name, adorned with the twin-flags pattern—a nice touch.

One design choice I particularly appreciate is the lack of a date window. It keeps the dial clean and simple, letting the beauty of the Glacier Blue and the delicate twin-flags pattern shine. The dial elements, including the logo, hour markers, and hands, are impeccably finished, showcasing the craftsmanship that Christopher Ward is known for.

Functionality and Features

The hands and indexes are filled with Super-LumiNova® Grade X1 BL C1, providing a decent glow in the dark. While not groundbreaking, it’s enough for most situations. The screw-in caseback, with a twelve-sided surround echoing the bezel shape, adds to the watch’s cohesive and thoughtful design.

A recent development in Christopher Ward’s design philosophy is the shift from their full logo to the applied twin-flags logo on the dial. This subtle change enhances the watch’s visual appeal and aligns with the minimalist branding trend. The logo’s quality and precision are a testament to the brand’s commitment to excellence.

Conclusion

To sum it up, the 36mm “The Twelve” by Christopher Ward in Glacier Blue is a refined and thoughtfully designed watch. Its perfect sizing and superb craftsmanship make it a standout in the brand’s lineup. From the intricate finishing of the integrated bracelet to the delicate pattern on the dial, every aspect of this watch speaks to meticulous attention to detail and a deep understanding of what makes a timepiece truly special.

For anyone looking for a blend of vintage charm and modern elegance, “The Twelve” is a compelling choice. It’s not just a watch; it’s a statement of style, sophistication, and quality. Whether you’re a seasoned collector or new to the world of watches, this timepiece is sure to impress.

I’ve done my best to capture the essence of “The Twelve” and underscores why it’s one of Christopher Ward’s most accomplished watches to date. If you’re considering adding a versatile, elegant, and exquisitely crafted timepiece to your collection, the 36mm “The Twelve” in Glacier Blue should be at the top of your list.

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At first glance, the C1 Moonphase’s dial, crafted from aventurine—a glass infused with reflective flakes of copper oxide—draws you into its mesmerizing celestial display. Each piece of aventurine being unique, every watch becomes an individual masterpiece. The starry night sky effect, a result of the reflective copper oxide, grants the dial an ethereal quality that is simply breathtaking. Capturing the shimmering stars at varying angles, the dial is the heart of this timepiece, outshining everything else.

The decision to strip the dial of unnecessary embellishments, including the logo, directs your attention to the elegant handset and the oversized, perpetually moving moon. Notably, the highly polished and meticulously crafted hands complement the watch’s overall aesthetic, creating a captivating visual allure that is hard to resist.

A standout feature of the C1 Moonphase is its Globolight moons, which rotate on an aventurine disc. These moons, coated with a four-color print of the actual moon, present a three-dimensional appearance with enhanced accuracy. Unlike its predecessor, the C1 Moonglow, the C1 Moonphase emits a pure white glow in the dark, owing to its ceramic and Super-LumiNova composition.

Behind this celestial spectacle lies the genius of Calibre JJ04, an in-house modular movement, seamlessly linking the moon’s phase to the hour hand. With a power reserve that can faithfully track the moon’s phase for an astonishing 128 years, the craftsmanship of the JJ04 movement is an ode to the magic of traditional mechanical watchmaking. Advancing the position of the moon is as simple as pulling the crown out to the first position and rotating it counterclockwise.

Christopher Ward’s attention to detail extends to the watch’s construction as well. The inclusion of a box-sapphire crystal, coated on both sides with an anti-reflective layer, ensures unparalleled clarity and visibility, elevating the wearer’s experience to new heights.

On the wrist, the smooth leather strap, equipped with a quick-release system, offers an understated yet refined touch. The suppleness of the leather and the seamless functionality of the Bader clasp contribute to an overall luxurious wearing experience. However, the buckle’s design may result in a slight top-hang on the wrist, a minor but noticeable detail.

Crafted with a 40.5mm case featuring a seamless blend of brushed and polished surfaces, the C1 Moonphase exudes a level of finishing comparable to renowned luxury brands. The well-proportioned crown with a simple yet effective grip and the deeply embossed twin flags motif add a touch of sophistication and elegance.

Considering the price, one might question whether the adoption of the Sellita SW288-1 could have reduced the cost compared to the custom JJ04 module. Nevertheless, when juxtaposed with its contemporaries like the Farer Moonphase, retailing at a comparable price, the value proposition of the C1 Moonphase becomes evident. In comparison to other moonphase watches, such as the Meistersinger Lunascope, priced at more than double, the C1 Moonphase provides exceptional value for money, showcasing Christopher Ward’s commitment to delivering a superior timepiece.

In terms of specifications, the C1 Moonphase impresses with a 40.5mm diameter, 13.3mm height, 47.9mm lug-to-lug, and a lightweight 67g build. The Sellita SW200-1 movement with the JJ04 module speaks volumes about the craftsmanship and functionality of this masterpiece. With a power reserve of 38 hours, 26 jewels, and a tolerance of -20/+20 seconds per day, the C1 Moonphase ensures reliability and precision for the discerning wearer.

Retailing at £2,120/$2,475/€2,655 on a bracelet and £1,995/$2,325/€2,495 on a leather strap, the Christopher Ward C1 Moonphase undoubtedly represents a new pinnacle in the brand’s commitment to excellence and innovation. With its celestial charm, meticulous craftsmanship, and exceptional value for money, the C1 Moonphase stands as a testament to Christopher Ward’s unwavering dedication to the art of watchmaking. Whether you’re an ardent collector or a discerning enthusiast, the C1 Moonphase promises to be a timeless addition to any watch connoisseur’s collection.

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Most field watches were originally made for military use, so they all tend to share a common design style that’s both durable and highly legible. Most are time-only watches, and they often have Arabic numerals for the hour markers. So, to keep things simple, I’ve stuck to watches that fit into this general definition of what a field watch is.

Now, rather than just talk about a load of watches I’ve never seen before, I’ve based this list around watches I’ve actually worn. This means that the five watches I’ve chosen for this list are ones I genuinely think are good field watches to own, rather than generic clickbait choices, and not one of the brands I talk about have paid to be featured in this article.

The other thing I want to say is that this list is obviously far from exhaustive. There are plenty of other great field watches out there that I haven’t added to this list, and these are just my picks from the watches I’ve handled myself. So feel free to disagree with me or suggest your own choices, and I might include them in a follow-up article.

Anyway, that’s enough preamble, so in no particular order here are my 5 picks…

1. Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer Mechanical

My first choice is the Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer Mechanical. Now, the first thing you’re probably wondering is why I didn’t choose the more popular Khaki Field Mechanical. Well, having reviewed both watches, I actually prefer the Pilot Pioneer to the KFM. There are two reasons for this. The first is that the Pilot Pioneer has 100m of water resistance, which is twice that of the KFM, and which makes the Pilot Pioneer more suitable for use in the field.

The second reason is that I think the design has more charm than the KFM, whilst still being practical. The Pilot Pioneer is a virtually identical reissue of the Hamilton W10, which has supplied to the British Military in the 1970s. With its textured dial, boxed crystal and 36mm cushion case, the Pilot Pioneer looks every inch the vintage field watch. The only downside is the fact that the watch has a mineral crystal, which is noticeably less scratch resistant than a sapphire one. But, other than that, it’s a well-specced watch.

Ticking away inside the Pilot Pioneer Mechanical is Hamilton’s H-50 manually wound movement. It’s based on the ETA 2801-2, and it has 17 jewels, a 3Hz beat rate and an impressive 80-hour power reserve. The watch retails for £740, which is pretty steep for the specifications. But a watch is more than the specs, and the design and finishing make this a very compelling offering indeed.

You can read my full review of the Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer Mechanical here.

2. CWC G10

The next watch is from CWC, or the Cabot Watch Company, to use its full name, which was founded in 1972 by the former managing director of Hamilton UK, Ray Mellor. Since then the company has specialised in producing watches for all three branches of the Britsh Military, something it still does in a limited capacity to this day. As a result, the brand has many options to choose from when it comes to a reliable field watch.

The classic choice is the G10, which was last issued to British forces in 2008. It’s got a purely utilitarian design, with a 36.5mm case that’s got an anti-reflective satin finish. Like many issued watches, the G10 has fixed spring bars, which means it can only be fitted with one-piece straps. However, it also stops the watch from being lost due to a spring bar failure.

Powering the G10 is an ETA quartz movement that’s the perfect choice for the humble field watch. Other notable features include lumed hands and markers, a 50m depth rating, and an acrylic crystal. Though acrylic isn’t terribly scratch-resistant, it is hard to shatter, which is why it’s still used on the G10. All in all the CWC G10 isn’t the most flashy field watch, but it’s an excellent blend of functionality and heritage that makes it a great choice of tool watch. It also costs just £279, which makes it the cheapest watch on this list.

You can purchase the G10 from CWC’s website here.

3. Christopher Ward C65 Sandhurst

The third watch I’ve chosen is an old favourite of mine and that’s the Christopher Ward C65 Sandhurst. It’s based on the iconic Smiths W10 but updates the design with some of Christopher Ward’s signature elements.

The watch is the most expensive on this list, with a retail price of £1,050 on the steel bracelet, but it makes up for that with its exceptional build quality. The Sandhurst is also the dressiest of the watches on this list, and it’s perfectly suited to being a “go anywhere, do anything” watch.

Whilst it may look refined, the Sandhurst is equally suited to the rugged outdoors, with a sapphire crystal, 150m depth rating, and bright Super-LumiNova. It also has a chronometer-grade Sellita SW200 movement, so it’s guaranteed to be the most accurate of the mechanical watches on this list. To cap it all off, the Sandhurst is officially approved by the Ministry of Defence and bears the heraldic badge of the British Army on its case back. Though it might not have the heritage of some of my other picks, the Sandhurst makes up for that with its finishing and value for money.

You can read my full review of the Christopher Ward C65 Sandhurst here.

4. Timefactors Smiths PRS-29A

Following on from the Sandhurst, the next watch on the list is another that’s based on the Smiths W10. It’s the Smiths PRS-29A from Timefactors, and it’s a near-exact reissue of the original W10. It’s slightly bigger than the original, with a 36mm steel case that’s only 11.1mm thick and has drilled lugs rather than fixed spring bars.

However, the PRS-29A makes the cut not because of its looks, but because of its specifications. The watch is water resistant to 100m, can resist magnetic fields of up to 20,000 A/m (amperes per metre), and has a boxed sapphire crystal that has a healthy application of anti-reflective coating on its underside. The lume is also ridiculously bright and is among the best I’ve seen at this price point. The last thing to talk about is the movement, which is a Sellita SW210. This hand-wound calibre has 19 jewels, a 42-hour power reserve, and a 4Hz beat rate.

The Smiths PRS-29A costs just £405, which makes the watch outstanding value for money. The only fly in the ointment is the ordering system, as the store only opens on Sunday afternoons every couple of weeks, and demand is usually so high that the store closes within a few minutes. But, if you can get your hands on a PRS-29A, it’s well worth the effort.

You can purchase the Smiths PRS-29A from Timefactor’s website here.

5. Nite MX10

I’ve saved the best till last with my final pick. It’s the MX10 from Nite, and it offers everything you need in a modern field watch for a very reasonable price of £300.

The watch has a sapphire crystal with several layers of anti-reflective coating, along with 100m of water resistance. The movement is the Ronda 715, a 5-jewel Swiss quartz movement that has a 5-year battery life. The cherry on the cake though is that instead of the Super-LumiNova you usually see on field watches at this price point, the MX-10 uses tritium tubes. Tritium is a radioluminescent material that emits a steady constant glow, which makes it perfect for nighttime legibility.

As if the MX10 wasn’t impressive enough though, back in 2005 Nite supplied 400 of them to none other than the SAS. That’s right, of all the possible choices this elite regiment could have chosen, they chose the MX10 as their issued wristwatch. Which means that these understated field watches have probably seen use in some of the harshest combat environments of the past 20 years. And, if the MX10 is good enough for the SAS, then it’s probably good enough for you too.

You can purchase the MX10 from Nite’s website here.

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Back in 2019, Christopher Ward launched their own field watch called the Sandhurst, as part of its military collection. Approved by the British Ministry of Defence, the C65 Sandhurst is of course named after the famous Royal Military Academy in Berkshire. It’s a loose interpretation of the iconic Smith’s W10, the field watch issued to the British Army between 1967 and 1970. The Smiths W10 is perhaps the most well-known of the British field watches, so it was the natural choice for Christopher Ward to take inspiration from. The Sandhurst has proved to be one of Christopher Ward’s most popular models, and now the company has refreshed the original design and launched the updated Sandhurst Series 2.

I’ll cut to the chase right now and say that this update is most definitely an improvement over the original Sandhurst, which itself was an excellent watch. But Christopher Ward has listened to feedback regarding the Series 1 and made a few small changes that take the watch to the next level. The changes themselves are quite varied and subtle, so rather than list them out I’ll cover each point as it arises.

The C65 Sandhurst Has A Killer Case And Bracelet

We’ll start with perhaps my favourite aspect of Christopher Ward watches, and that’s the case. The brand dubs the design the Light-catcher™ because of the way the combination of chamfers and brushed and polished surfaces play with the light. It’s a design I’m so fond of because it demonstrates just how high above its weight Christopher Ward punches. The finishing is simply superb, and the design strikes a perfect balance between form and function.

In addition to its good looks, the Sandhurst is also rather comfortable to wear. Part of that is down to the case dimensions, because with a 38mm diameter, a lug length of 43.7mm, and a thickness of 11.9mm, I think the Sandhurst sits in something of a sweet spot. It’s not so small as to be dainty, but also not so big that the simple design looks out of proportion. (Yes, I’m looking at you, Tudor Ranger.)

However, the biggest reason that the Sandhurst wears so well is its upgraded bracelet. Whilst the case is exactly the same as was used for the Series 1, Christopher Ward has made a couple of tweaks to the oyster bracelet. Namely, the bracelet now includes half-links, and the links themselves are secured by screw pins. Paired with the ratcheting micro-adjustment system built into the clasp, it’s never been easier to get the perfect fit on your wrist. Though, if I had to be really picky, I’d say that the clasp is possibly a little long, as it’s practically the same length as the watch, and might be a bit too big for some people. However, on a positive note, the bracelet also uses quick-release spring bars, which make changing the straps on the Sandhurst ridiculously simple.

A Twist On A Classic Design

As I said at the beginning, the Sandhurst is based on the classic Smiths W10, which means that its dial follows the instantly recognizable field watch layout. There’s an arrow at the 12 o’clock position, with Arabic numerals at the other hour markers, and a railroad minute track surrounding them. The font of the Arabic numerals has also been changed, and it’s now much closer to the font used on the Smiths W10. It’s a small thing, but it shows some nice attention to detail on Christopher Ward’s part.

I’m sure you’ll also have noticed that the dial no longer has the full “Christopher Ward” text printed beneath twelve o’clock, and instead has their twin flags logo. It’s a welcome change, as the twin flags are much more compact and balanced than the full-text logo ever was.

As I’ll get onto later, Christopher Ward has upgraded the lume on the C65 Sandhurst, and a side effect of the heavier application is that the numerals are now slightly raised, which stops the dial from looking too flat and dull. You’ll either love or hate the use of “Old Radium” lume on the minute track and handset, and there’s no right or wrong opinion on it. But, personally, I like the use of two different shades of lume, as it adds another dimension to an otherwise straightforward design.

Another obvious change is to the handset, which is now arrow-shaped and completely flat with a toolish brushed finish. On the one hand, I prefer these to the old baton handset which had bevelled polished sides. Those polished surfaces had a tendency to turn black under certain lighting and thus make the hands look very thin. There’s no danger of that with the new handset, and they’re always easy to read. However, on the other hand, I’m not completely sold on the shape. Of course, it’s purely a subjective opinion, but I can’t help but feel like the sharp angles of the hour hand don’t quite match the blunter, less aggressive shape of the minute hand. But, my own design tastes aside, I think that the dial of the Sandhurst is a great take on the classic field watch aesthetic.

The C65 Sandhurst Has Specifications Befitting A Military Watch

As befits a watch bearing the heraldic badge of the British Army on its underside, the C65 Sandhurst has all the specifications you need in a field watch. It features a screw-down crown and is water-resistant to 150m, as well as a boxed sapphire crystal. The use of a boxed crystal is a nice touch, as it mimics the old acrylic crystal on the Smiths W10 whilst offering improved scratch resistance.

Now, one of the biggest improvements that Christopher Ward made to the Series 2 Sandhurst over the Series 1 is the lume. The watch uses some of the newest grades of Super-LumiNova and as a result, the watch is markedly more legible in the dark than the original model.

The last aspect of the specifications to discuss is the movement. Ticking away inside the Sandhurst is a COSC-certified Sellita SW200-1. As a certified chronometer, the movement is guaranteed to be accurate to between -4 and +6 seconds a day, and that high level of accuracy is perfect for a military-inspired watch. Besides that, the SW200 is one of the main Swiss movements in use today, and most of us are familiar with its specifications. But, for those who aren’t, the movement has 26 jewels, a 36-hour power reserve, and a beat rate of 28,800 bph.

Final Thoughts

All in all, I think that the Sandhurst perfectly represents why Christopher Ward has been so successful in the watch industry. For a watch that costs £1,050 or $1,080 on a bracelet, you certainly get an awful lot for your money. The fit and finish are exceptional and are certainly among the very best I’ve seen at this price point. As to the C65 Sandhurst’s specifications, the watch has pretty much everything you need in a “go anywhere, do anything” watch, with solid water resistance, decent lume, a sapphire crystal, and of course that chronometer-certified movement.

Which just leaves the design as the deciding factor for whether or not this watch is for you. Of course, we all have different tastes, but personally, I think that Christopher Ward has done a good job with the design of the Sandhurst. Sure, it doesn’t really break the mould when it comes to field watch design, but I think that there are enough small details on the watch to stop it from being boring. And, because of that, I think that the C65 Sandhurst is a very versatile watch that can be dressed up or down to suit you.

If you like the look of the C65 Sandhurst Series 2, you can buy one from Christopher Ward’s website here.

The post The Christopher Ward C65 Sandhurst Series 2 – A Fantastic Value Proposition appeared first on 12&60.

The C63 Sealander Elite is no exception to this. Released in the Spring of 2021, the Sealander Elite is the first Christopher Ward watch to feature a retractable crown. This incredibly unusual feature is found in very few watches, the most notable other being the Omega Aqua Terra Ultra Light. That watch retails for £43,550, so I was incredibly surprised to see that Christopher Ward could offer the same feature in a watch that cost £1,380. 

The benefits of a retractable crown are firstly, that it doesn’t dig into the back of the wearer’s hand, and secondly that there’s very little chance of the crown getting knocked and damaged. It’s a useful feature to have in a sports watch and, as we’ll get onto shortly, it’s one of several things Christopher Ward have done to try and make the C63 Sealander Elite the ultimate tool watch. 

A Watch That’s Built To Be Light

The key selling point of the C63 Sealander Elite is just how light it is. And oh boy, is it light. The watch head weighs only 45g, mainly because the case is made from grade 2 titanium. So, as you’d expect, the watch is as light as a feather on the wrist. In fact, I think you could easily forget that you’re wearing a watch at all. 

The case shape follows Christopher Ward’s trademarked Light-catcher design, the signature brushed and polished of which work perfectly together to make the Sealander look equally rugged and refined. 

The C63 Sealander Elite saves even more weight by having cut-outs in the dial that go all the way through the watch. It’s a neat idea that creates a unique effect when you hold the watch up to the light. However, unfortunately, when the watch is on your wrist you can’t actually see through them. This means that on the wrist, all the cut-outs do is clutter up the dial. 

Light As A Feather, But Tough As Nails

Despite the watch’s lightness, it’s by no means a featherweight when it comes to its specifications. The C63 Sealander Elite has all the features you need in a versatile sports watch. The crystal is a scratch-resistant sapphire with an anti-reflective coating. Meanwhile, the watch is more than capable of taking a dip in the pool with a solid 150m of water resistance. 

Inside the C63 Sealander Elite you’ll find a Sellita SW200 automatic movement. If you don’t already know, this is a common Swiss-made calibre that’s widely used by countless watch brands. It’s got 26-jewels and a 38-hour power reserve. In the Sealander Elite Christopher Ward have used the chronometer grade version of the SW200. This means the movement has been certified by the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC) to keep time to within -4/+6 seconds per day.

Whilst the SW200 is a fairly common movement to see in Swiss watches priced around £1,000, it’s rare to see the chronometer version at this price point. This gives the Sealander Elite something of an edge over the competition.

You can view the movement through a sapphire crystal display case back. It’s always nice to see a mechanical movement ticking away. Unfortunately, it also means that I can see that the C63 Sealander Elite uses a plastic movement holder. I imagine it was chosen to help keep the watch’s weight down, but to be honest I just don’t want to see plastic in my £1,380 watch. Regardless of whether it actually is worse than a metal movement holder, I can’t help but feel that it cheapens the perceived quality of the watch. 

How The C63 Sealander Elite Feels On The Wrist

When it comes to wearability, the C63 Elite should suit most wrist sizes. At 40mm wide the case is on the sweet spot for most people, though it possibly wears a little larger than you’d expect, thanks to a thin bezel and wide dial. It’s also just 10.7mm thick so the Sealander Elite is pretty unobtrusive on the wrist.

The retractable crown I mentioned earlier is spring-loaded and operates by simply pressing the crown. Once it pops out it works just like any other. It really is a neat feature, but my one problem with it is that the crown is a bit narrow. This means there’s not much to grip on to, which makes winding the watch a bit more awkward than it needs to be.

The C63 Sealander Elite is also very easy to read, thanks to its clean dial. The simple applied batons and arrow handset look very refined, and they stand out perfectly against the black dial. The crisp white X1 BL C1 Grade Super-LumiNova that fills them is also nice and bright, so you’ll have no problem reading the time in the dark. As a final flourish, the orange seconds hand and minute markers add a quirky pop of colour that stops the watch from looking too sombre.

There are a variety of strap options for the Sealander, but this sample is on the titanium oyster bracelet. Like all Christopher Ward bracelets, it has a quick-release system and a quick micro-adjustment clasp. Both of these are welcome features, as they make changing the bracelet and tweaking its size incredibly simple. The bracelet also features half links, which further helps you get the perfect fit. 

Final Thoughts

Whilst the C63 Sealander Elite isn’t the cheapest watch Christopher Ward offer, it’s still a great value proposition. It’s ridiculously light and extremely comfortable on the wrist, as well as being kitted out with all the features you’re likely to need in an everyday watch. The fact that the watch uses a chronometer-grade movement is something that I really appreciate. When a brand makes a visible effort to make their watches as accurate as possible it’s a testament to how serious they are about watchmaking. 

However, I won’t lie, as I’ve mentioned throughout this review there are a few things I’d change about the watch. The crown could be a bit more ergonomic, the cut-outs seem pointless, and I’d like to see a metal movement holder. 

But overall these are minor complaints about a watch that really stands out from the other sports watches at this price point. With its titanium case, chronometer movement, and retractable crown, the C63 Sealander Elite has shown that it’s a serious sports watch that can put similarly priced alternatives to shame. 

You can read more about the C63 Sealander Elite on Christopher Ward’s website here.

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Christopher Ward claim it’s comparable to the workmanship sufficient to satisfy luxury watch Maisons Czapek and MB&F. Why? How? Well, Armin Strom was consulted for the skeletonising, while the SH21 is finished at Chronode, including the detailing of the bridges and base plate, requiring at least six hours per watch.

I’ve been keeping a beady eye on how it’s received. So many people wrongly say “I’d rather have a Tudor BB58” or a second-hand Omega. Yes, those watches are available at that price point, and yes – they’re brilliant watches. But, it’s like comparing apples to pears. The watch this should be compared to is the Oris Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115, with an RRP of £5950. Is it worth nearly double the C60 Concept? We’ll find out (but spoiler alert: the answer is a hard no). It could even, at a stretch, be compared to the Zenith Defy Classic, with the outstanding skeletonised version starting at £6700. These are the watches it needs to be compared to – and once we do, we start to realise that the price tag is as reasonable as ever. 

Without further ado, let’s check it out. 

Christopher Ward C60 Concept Video Review

Christopher Ward C60 Concept Specs

• Dimensions: 42mm diameter x 15.85mm height x 49.3mm lug to lug
• Weight: 71g
• Water resistance rating: 30ATM / 300m
• Movement: in-house Calibre SH21
• Accuracy: +1.8 sec/day
• Lug width: 22mm
• Warranty: 60|60 60 days of free returns worldwide / 60-month movement guarantee
• Price: £3495
• Available from: https://www.christopherward.com/dive/c60-concept/C60-42A5D3-T0BG0-HBO.html

I’m going to get some boring bits out of the way first (as I know what you’re here for). First up: the case. It’s titanium, with a very respectable 300m water resistance rating – this is a proper tool dive watch that can and should be used. It’s also Christopher Ward’s wonderful “light catcher” design, with flowing arcs, bevels and an array of finishes. 

The 42mm diameter might put some off, the over 15mm height even more so; but, thanks to the ingenuity behind the case shape, it neither looks nor wears that large. As it’s titanium, it’s also extremely light – 71g on the wrist, for something this impressive, is ultra-comfortable. 

It’s loaded with Christopher Ward’s well-received Cordura® and rubber hybrid waterproof strap. The C60 Concept also has a titanium bracelet as an option, which would no doubt be pretty impressive. It has the logo neatly engraved on the buckle and quick-release pins for easy changing if you want to. It’s exceptionally supple and malleable for a rubber strap, and certainly aids the comfort of the entire watch. 

Sitting atop the case is a flat sapphire crystal with a very effective anti-reflective coating – perfect for gazing at what’s below. It’s flanked by a 120-click unidirectional zirconia ceramic bezel. I love the reflective glossy insert; providing colour, glitz and glamour; the design being ultra-modern and quite different too. The bezel action is precise and tight as you’d expect, the sound is reassuringly deep signifying quality bearings. 

Enough of all that – let’s just get on with it and talk about the hand-finished movement. The SH21 in itself is still a remarkable movement, albeit slightly industrial in its initial form. I love how Johannes Jahnke – who was the key designer for the movement lovingly refers to it as a “tractor”. Sturdy, strong, purposeful, and functional. This is completely detached from that original version though. Functional and strong yes, plain and boring? No. 

I’ve seen many, many skeleton movements in my time, but none compare to this. I mean, come on – this is finished by the same people who work on MB&F, HYT, Harry Winston, Czapek. These are proper Haute horology brands, costing tens of thousands of pounds. This SH21 is like getting a Fiat but made in the Ferrari factory.

It contains rhodium and grey ruthenium (both of which are rare metals in the platinum family), increasing the value of each movement. 

So who did what? Christopher Ward explains:

• Armin Strom, the leading specialist in skeletonising movements, manufactured the ‘ski-slope’ styled bridges that echo the Trident aesthetics.
• Chronode, whose work has adorned watches from brands such as Czapek, Cyrus and MB&F, hand-polished the chamfered edges of each movement for more than six hours – under a microscope – to dazzling effect.
• Xenoprint created the three-dimensional lumed triangle at 12 o’clock using their unique Globolight XP© process.

When you consider that each movement has elements from multiple manufacturers, it’s little wonder the price is what it is. To top it off, it’s COSC certified (which alone costs £100).

Let’s talk specs. It has a whopping 120-hour (5 days) power reserve thanks to the double-barrel. As it’s chronometer-certified, the tolerance should be -4/+6 seconds per day. This one is coming in at a very impressive +1.8 sec/day. The movement houses 31 jewels and has everything else you’d expect: a high beat rate of 28.8k bph, hacking seconds hand, hand and automatic winding. 

There’s still one thing left to mention: the lume. It’s fantastic, which is a refreshing upgrade from the standard Christopher Ward level. The key design feature is the sandblasted, brushed and polished blue ring with Super-LumiNova® filling and orange Globolight® Triangle. You don’t see a design like this too often, which is why it’s rather welcome. 

I’m surprised they opted against hour markers. It would certainly increase legibility in the dark, but that huge thick arrow at 12 is a delight and fairly easy and quick to use as a focus point. 

Super-LumiNova® white lume can also be found in the hands, dial and bezel – plus the lovely little touch of being in the twin flags logo at 3.

Christopher Ward C60 Concept Final Comments

Who will the C60 Concept appeal to? Solely Christopher Ward fanboys? Newbies to the brand? To be honest, Christopher Ward won’t care. Will it sell? Hell yes. Only 210 pieces will be produced, and enough will realise the impressive nature of this watch. 

They claim the hand-finishing is to standards found only in wristwatches above £10,000. My experience in that bracket is limited, so I can’t say for sure – but I feel it has some weight to it rather than it just being marketing spiel.

Yes, there are other watches for the same price. Funny that. But people should stop comparing this to watches that are not on a relative plane. The Oris ProPilot X is only £500 less than a Submariner – but we wouldn’t compare them, as that would be utterly pointless. 

The fact is, Christopher Ward has created a watch with specs and that is finished to a standard never seen before at this price point. Maybe Christopher Ward is starting to target the higher end market. Maybe they did all this just because they could. Whatever the case, it’s a tremendous watch that looks fantastic, with impeccable craftsmanship. 

The post Christopher Ward C60 Concept Watch Review appeared first on 12&60.

This new ‘go anywhere, do everything’ watch collection introduces a new label; named ‘EveryWatch’ – a watch for dress, work and play. The new C63 Sealander Collection is available from £595 for the C63 Sealander Automatic, from £795 for the C63 Sealander GMT and £1,150 for the C63 Sealander Elite.

The model I have for review is the standard automatic, and at first glance £595 is a fair price, although that does creep up to £700 if you want the bracelet.

Without further ado, let’s check it out!

The video review

The specs

• Dimensions: 39mm diameter x 11.25mm height x 45.8mm lug to lug
• Weight: 74g
• Water resistance rating: 15ATM / 150m
• Movement: Sellita SW200-1 with Elaboré ‘Colimaçoné’ finish
• Accuracy: +5.3 sec/day
• Lug width: 20mm
• Warranty: 60 days of free returns worldwide / 60-month movement guarantee
• Price: £595
• Available from: https://www.christopherward.com/sport-new/c63-sealander-automatic/C63-39ADA3-S00K0-TKR.html

First things first, let’s get the logo out of the way. There’s a lot to be said about those two simple words making up the now-departed co-founder. This is the third logo in the brand’s lifespan, and it was met with a fair amount of opposition, especially when the text is left-aligned and at 9, as many models have. However, centre-aligned text at 12 is sure to please many, as it provides a much more balanced and symmetrical design. If only they’d use the twin-flags logo more, as that would be awesome.

Secondly, the wearability of the watch. It’s a tremendous size for my 7” wrist; 39mm is perfect for me: small enough to look right and be comfortable, large enough to impress. The 11.25mm height is also fairly slender, so it’ll fit nice and snug under a cuff. The weight of 74g on this NATO also helps the comfort.

The Christopher Ward C63 employs the brand’s Light-catcher case, secure to 150m/15ATM. I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again – this is one of the best watch cases I’ve ever seen and handled on an affordable watch. It’s a joy to view at every single angle, providing an array of light reflections due to the various facets, bevels and finishing. Due to the slender design, it also looks a lot thinner and slender than the height suggests, making it feel even more wearable.

Thirdly, the design. Let’s face it, it’s pretty simple. But: simple doesn’t mean boring. Legible and well proportioned, it reminds me of the Rolex Explorer. Indeed, this could be one of the best non-homage affordable alternatives to that peerless classic.

You get the choice of black or white hand-finished, polished lacquer dials, with applied, faceted brushed and polished indexes. The glossy nature of the dual instantaneously provides a luxurious feel to the watch, and the way it plays with the light is lovely, just like my Trident.

The new Trident range hands are present, which have a polished edge and brushed central flank. This dramatically reflects the light, making it interesting to view. There’s the signature Trident counter-balance on the seconds hand, with a red tip on the other end to provide a splash of colour alongside the red “150m|500ft” in the bottom half.

The date at 6 is a superb alteration to the rest of the Trident range. I personally really like the symmetry it provides, and the black wheel matches the dial perfectly, so it’s very inconspicuous and subtle. There’s a gently bevelled edge around the border of the window, which is hardly recognisable.

The hands and hour markers are loaded with Super-LumiNova Grade® X1 BL C1, and in true Christopher Ward fashion, is nothing to write home about. Sure, it glows and you can see it in the dark – but just about, and it’s not particularly noticeable.

The omission of a standard rotating bezel, being replaced by a circular brushed and polished fixed steel bezel transforms this watch from a diver to a multi-purpose design.

The movement is a solid choice and is Christopher Ward’s go-to: the Sellita SW200-1, with a pleasing Elaboré ‘Colimaçoné’ finish. The twin flags engravings on the rotor is excellent. Specs include 38 hours power reserve, 26 jewels, 28,800 bph (8 ticks per second), hand and automatic winding and hacking seconds hand. This one is coming in at an accurate +5.3 sec/day.

It’s the first appearance of a #tide ocean material strap on a regular model. Looking like a particularly sophisticated NATO, these woven nylon straps are made of discarded plastic hauled from the Pacific, then shredded, treated for UV damage, and reconstituted as watch straps. Please note that this strap is a prototype so there are a few anomalies with it that won’t be present in the production models; it’s thicker than it will be and will therefore start to fray where the productions models wouldn’t. I love the way they provide the looks and comfort of a NATO, but none of that annoying bulk under the case, raising the watch head high up.

Final comments

Whilst I’ve only had the watch for a couple of days, one thing’s for sure: I can see this being popular. It fills a void in the Christopher Ward lineup, one that hasn’t been filled since the demise of the old C65 Classic. It certainly is the kind of watch that you can wear doing anything or to any event; all that would be required is a strap swap and you’re good to go. It’s has a deeply timeless simplicity to it, one that portrays elegance yet is unpretentious; one that can easily be dressed up or down. And the overall build quality? Flawless, as I’ve come to expect.

For some, perhaps it’s too plain. But for others, that clear dial, providing optimal legibility and a classic look, will be just the ticket.

The post Christopher Ward C63 Sealander Automatic Watch Review appeared first on 12&60.

But, as they started to get into other people’s hands and the positive reviews started bellowing out, I decided to take another look.

There are three key talking points with the Super Compressor. 

Firstly, the case. I know what you’re thinking: so what? There’s loads of super compressor watches out there. Some are dead cheap! However, they’re not real super compressors. They just mimic the internal rotating bezel with a crown at 2. 

It’s the first real Super Compressor in 50 years, according to Christopher Ward. It’s also the first genuine super compressor case with an exhibition caseback. So what is a super compressor I hear you ask? It’s a mechanism inside the case that increases the water-resistance the further down you dive. But hang on, this watch only has 150m water resistance. Is there any point? Well, in a word, no. But for many things in the horological world, most of the time these impressive elements are done just because they can. No one really needs a double tourbillon, but it doesn’t stop Breguet and Greubel Forsey from making them for an eye-watering amount. 

The second and third talking points are surrounding the dial: one positive, one negative. A double-edged sword, if you will. 

The positive? Just look at it. It’s gorgeous. And it’s so much nicer in the metal than the pictures suggest. The colours are dreamy and the finishing is delightful. This model is the “Ocean Blue”, and I do feel transported to a beach in Barbados or Seychelles. Not in dreary ol’ Warwickshire, the furthest place you could be to a beach in the U.K. 

However, not all is hunky-dory in the land of the Christopher Ward Super Compressor. Somehow, they’ve managed to misalign some text at the bottom of the dial (note the red lines on the photo below). Now before we get into that, it’s nowhere near as bad as I was expecting with the watch in my hand. It’s barely noticeable unless you’re staring right at it. A big boo-boo for sure, but it doesn’t stop me from enjoying the watch. 

The video review

Before we dig into the rest of the watch, let’s consider a quick spec check:

The specs

• Dimensions: 41mm diameter x 13mm height x 47mm lug to lug
• Weight: 94g
• Water resistance rating: 15ATM / 150m
• Movement: Sellita SW200-1
• Accuracy: +17.6 sec/day
• Lug width: 22mm
• Warranty: 5 years
• Price: £895
• Available from: https://www.christopherward.com/retro-dive/c65-super-compressor/C65-41ASC1-S0WB0-RK.html

The Christopher award Super Compressor utilises the brands tremendous “light catcher” case. Let me tell you, it’s magnificent for a watch under £1000. Multifaceted, sleek lines, with plentiful bevelling and contrasting finishing, it’s a sight to behold at every angle. It’s because of this slender appearance that it wears so much sweeter than the 41mm diameter and 13mm height (on my 7” wrist). 

Of course, due to the popularity of this style of watch (with the dual crowns and internal bezel), in the ’70s, this just naturally becomes a vintage-inspired piece. 

The top crown rotates the 120-click inner bezel. On cheaper watches, this always tends to be free-flowing clockwise and anti-clockwise. However, here, it only rotates anti-clockwise like your normal diving bezel and it also has a lovely subtle click at each half minute which was a pleasant unexpected touch. I love the orange ring flanking the crosshatch pattern on the end of the crown, providing a splash of colour that ties in with the hands, arrow at 12, and the compression spring at the rear of the case. 

The dial has that gorgeous sunray ocean blue, which works well with the orange accents. The colour scheme is another retro nod.

The handset, in particular the bold orange minute hand, is reminiscent of the Omega Ploprof, a diving icon from the 70s. The trident counterweight on the second’s hand is ever-present throughout the Trident range, delicately and impressively formed.

The applied hour markers are a three-dimensional delight, taller at the outer edge with a lume filled channel than the inner, it slopes down with bevelled edges and a spotless polished finish. 

Super-LumiNova® Grade X1 GL C1 has been used across the watch, and is reasonably well applied and is effective at viewing the watch in the dark. There was a day when Christopher Ward watches had terrible lume; those days have now long gone.

There are cute pips located at the ends of the hour markers. Interestingly, they are orange up to 4, then white for the rest of the hours. This will be to mimic the usual way a divers bezel has the first 15-20 mins highlighted in some way or another, which originates from the 50s and would be used as timing decompression stops as a diver resurfaced – to avoid the bends. 

The ‘glass box’ sapphire crystal with a ‘bubble’ edge maximises the vintage 1960s feel even more. It has excellent clarity but a distinctive mellow distortion at shallow angles.

This particular model comes loaded with Christopher Ward’s excellent hybrid strap. Comprised of rubber and Cordura nylon, it’s soft and supple out of the box and easy on the wrist. It also has quick-release pins so it’ll be quick and easy to switch over.

Finally, let’s mention the movement – the Sellita SW200-1 is pretty much a clone of the ETA 2824-2, but with a cheeky extra jewel. It boasts a pleasant twin-flag engraving over a ‘Colimaçoné’ finish on the rotor; I’m not sure what that means exactly – they could have made that word up. 26 jewels, a high beat rate of 28.8k bph (8 ticks per second), 38-hour power reserve, hand and automatic winding, and a hacking seconds hand.

This one is coming in at a rather wild +17.6 seconds a day which is a little disappointing. 

Final comments

That text alignment. Ooh boy. How did that get through QA? It’s a shocker for sure, but I’ve got to be honest, I’ve not even noticed it whilst wearing it. Only when you pay close attention can you see it. I understand the latest batch and models have had the issue fixed.

It just has a charm, a coolness about it that’s hard to put my finger on. I guess that means it’s well balanced, effortless and purposeful in design. Which is a hard balance to achieve.

The build quality is tremendous, it’s a delight to wear. The light catcher case is one of the best I’ve ever come across on a watch under £1000.

Can you look past the text alignment? If so, this is a serious watch that all fans of retro divers should consider.

The post Christopher Ward Super Compressor Watch Review appeared first on 12&60.

The specs

• Dimensions: 42mm diameter x 15.4mm height x 49.3mm lug to lug
• Weight: 128g
• Water resistance rating: 100ATM / 1000m
• Movement: Sellita SW220
• Accuracy: +1.1 sec/day
• Lug width: 22mm
• Warranty: 5 years
• Price: £1470 / $1680
• Available from: https://www.christopherward.co.uk/c60-elite-1000-black-red-1

The video review

The case

First things first; the case is constructed from Grade 2 titanium – the highest strength-to-density ratio of any metallic element and renowned for both its lightweight and corrosion-resistant properties.

It’s much lighter than steel – this comes with pluses and minuses depending on what you like. If you like heavy, chunky watches which you can feel on your wrist – the Trident Elite isn’t that. It feels light as a feather – so much so that it’s very comfortable and easy to wear for a prolonged period.

You could even be led into mistakenly thinking “it’s not heavy, so it’s not high quality”. That’s most certainly far from the truth.

There’s an in-built automatic helium release valve on the side of the case at 9, which will assist with equalization during the ascent from a dive. The water rating is a very impressive 1000m / 100ATM. Indeed, this is a serious diving watch that’s meant to be used to the extreme.

The brushed ceramic bezel provides a real tool-like feel. It’s a much different design to the regular Trident – providing a much more sports-like vibe due to the matte finish, the inclusion of the splash of red, the running dots and the line which goes up until 16 minutes (that may upset some, rather than stopping at 15).

How about an exhibition window on a watch with a depth rating as impressive as 1000m? They’ve done it thanks to a 3.4mm-thick crystal, which is most likely the cause of the 15.4mm height.

As is the case with all Tridents, the “light-catcher case” has beautiful flowing lines, much like a sports car. It looks great at every angle and is very well manufactured and finished.

The screw-in crown features the twin flags motif deeply embossed. It is easy to use thanks to the decent grip.

The dial

The glossy backdrop to the dial provides a delightfully reflective surface, with a luxurious vibe; think Omega Planet Ocean Liquid Metal.

The reworked Trident hands are bold and very modern; they’re easy to read especially in low light conditions thanks to the excellent lume.

The lume used across the Mk3 Trident range is the strongest there is; Super-LumiNova® Grade X1 GL C1 – and boy can you tell. Christopher Ward watches have never really been too impressive when it comes to lume, but that has changed with the Mk3 Trident range. It charges quickly, glows brightly, and lasts aplenty.

The inclusion of the day indictor (due to the SW220 movement) is a pleasant addition. I’m not too bothered if I do or don’t have it on a watch, but it’s a nice inclusion. There’s a simple white border around the day/date wheels, and I’m pleased to see them black to match the dial.

The bracelet

The overall bracelet on the Trident range has been a rather excellent piece of development by Christopher Ward. It features quick-release pins (a rarity on bracelets), and a very sleek and easy to use micro-adjustment underneath the buckle.

There’s slight play either side of the end links in the lugs (I’m talking a minuscule amount, a fraction of a millimetre) which is due to the quick release pins (if it was too tight it would be very difficult to put on and off).

The colour matches the case, which is a darker grey to steel which is much more tool-like.

The buckle has the twin flags motif engraved on the top, which opens by using the buttons either side.

The movement

The movement powering the C60 Elite 1000 is the Sellita SW220. Each SW220 has been certified by the Swiss organisation Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres; with a tolerance of just -4/+6 seconds per day. Therefore, the Elite 1000 sits within the top 6% of all Swiss-made watches for accuracy.

This movement is indeed coming in at a very impressive +1.1 sec/day, and features a customised rotor with the logo and twin flags engraved.

It has all the usual specs you’d expect: beat rate of 28.8k bph (6 ticks per second), hacking seconds hand, hand and automatic winding, 26 jewels, ~38 hours power reserve and a day and date indicator.

Final comments

There’s no doubt about it, the C60 Elite 1000 is a stunning watch with a very impressive spec list. Full titanium construction, COSC certification, a feature-packed bracelet, as well as great design makes it stand out from the rest of the pack offering the same ingredients.

Is it worth the extra £700 to the Trident 600 though? If you want a diver which is as highly-specced as they come, then yes. If you’re precious over the titanium, COSC, day indicator and redesigned bezel, then this is for you. However, if none of those things strikes you as necessary then the Trident 600 is still my personal choice and is still my favourite watch for under £1000 hands down.

Nonetheless, the Christopher Ward C60 Elite 1000 is a serious diver that you shouldn’t take lightly (even if it is made of titanium).

The post Christopher Ward C60 Elite 1000 Watch Review appeared first on 12&60.

The Trident Mk3 600, however, is much cheaper and therefore more accessible by many, and in turn, is a more suitable watch for review.

When you compare the Mk3 with all Tridents that preceded it, there’s very little that remains: in effect, the Trident counter-weight on the seconds hand and the stylised deep-stamped caseback are the only things. Where are the onion and sword hands and the wavey dial that became synonymous with the Trident? Everything is completely reworked, and the design has been modernised to match the new branding.

They’ve practically started with a blank slate in terms of construction; everything is notably better quality. Let’s check it out to see if it’s worth £795.

The specs

• Dimensions: 40mm diameter x 12.95mm height x 47.46mm lug to lug
• Weight: 159g
• Water resistance rating: 60ATM / 600m
• Movement: Sellita SW200-1
• Accuracy: +7.3 sec/day
• Lug width: 20mm
• Warranty: 5 years
• Price: £795
• Available from: https://www.christopherward.co.uk/c60-trident-pro-600-mk3-7

The video review

The case

The Trident Mk3 is available in 3 different case sizes. For me and my slightly over 7” wrist, the 40mm is spot on. It’s so comfortable, perfectly proportioned, and looks at home on the wrist. Not overbearing, but subtle, classy; just right.

It utilises Christopher Ward’s new “light catcher” case, which can only be described as a work of art and as curvaceous as a racing car; think Aston Martin DB9. Every angle produces eye-catching lines and a variety of reflections thanks to the contours and alternating finishes.

Christopher Ward has claimed that the bezel mechanism on the new Trident v3 is one of the best you can get. It’s quite a bold claim and one that I can’t verify as I’ve not used the bezel on every watch in existence. What I can say that it is indeed very good, with no backwards play, great accuracy, and a loud click. Perhaps it could be a bit smoother, but that’s down to personal preference. There is, however, a minute amount of wiggle when pressing down on top of the bezel at 12 and 6.

The bezel insert is constructed of deep, reflective zirconia ceramic, working very well with the glossy dial. The markings are engraved accurately within and filled with lume; the design of the triangle at 12 rather than a pip looks great.

With a water resistance of 60ATM / 600m, this is a serious dive watch; offering double the rating of a Rolex Submariner and matching the Omega Planet Ocean, it’s clear that Christopher Ward is focusing on making this watch as good value for money as possible.

The crown is protected by subtle and elegant crown guards, offering a measure of protection. The screw-in crown itself is a great size and shape: it doesn’t look out of place in the overall aesthetic of the watch, and it’s easy to use. The grip is very thick offering great purchase whilst using it; the thread whilst screwing/unscrewing it is also reassuringly tight and sturdy. The twin flags motif is deeply embossed on top of a frosted backdrop, showing excellent accuracy and close attention to detail.

The caseback is an impressive deep-stamped feast for the eyes and fingers, providing plenty of depth and texture. The central region is a trident surrounded by the company and model name; which are all polished set against the frosted finish as per the crown. Surrounding this are some lightly engraved details, and around the outside edge are deeply engraved channels mimicking a diving regulator.

Sitting on top of the case is a slightly raised sapphire crystal with a chamfered edge. The anti-reflective coating is effective, providing a clear view of the glossy dial.

The dial

The Christopher Ward Trident Mk3 features a glossy, lacquered dial to replace the classic wavey texture. I feel this works better with the latest branding; it makes it much more modern in appearance and also the glossiness has a more luxurious air to it. Similar to the Planet Ocean Liquid Metal, the thick yet accurate white printwork sits on top of the reflective surface, providing excellent legibility.

Lume has always been a bit of a disappointment on Christopher Ward watches; thankfully they’ve considered this issue, and have upgraded the lume to X1 GL C1 Super-Luminova, which has also been liberally applied. I can confirm – the lume is incredibly bright; charging extremely fast, glowing brightly, and lasting a long time.

The hands are the next thing that is completely remodelled; all that remains is the trident counterweight on the seconds hand. No longer is there the classic sword minute hand and onion hour hand, but rather a very direct arrow hour hand and pointed baton minute hand. They’re filled with lume, as well as having a pleasant array of finishes: a central bushed channel, flanked by polished edges either side.

The hour markers are similar in design to the primary hands; with a lumed central channel, brushed edges and a polished incline at the base.

The date window is cut out of the dial, with a white painted border surrounding it. The date wheel is also black to match.

The bracelet

There are two killer features on the new bracelet: firstly, quick-release tabs; and secondly, a quick, easy and well-concealed micro-adjustment system.

The end links contain the quick-release tabs – just a quick squeeze allows you to take the bracelet off with ease; now strap changes are a matter of minutes rather than painfully trying to remove the bracelet. Plus, no tool markings from the inevitable slipping. I think because of this, the end links aren’t as tight as usual; there has to be a tiny amount of play for the quick release bracelet to be easy to use.

The links have received a favourable redesign too; with a wider centre link which provides a more modern look. They’re completely brushed to hold off any scratches for as long as possible.

The buckle is simple but chunky, with a button either side to realise. It’s also fully brushed, so it’s less likely to pick up scratches (although mine has got a few already). There’s an indent either side to continue the line break of the outer links, and the twin flags motif is deeply engraved near the top.

The micro-adjustment system is great: I’ve found myself using it several times during the heat of the summer when my wrist expands and contracts in size. Just a quick slide of the button and you can readjust the positioning of the bottom link to give you a good few millimetres adjustment. I’ve found it works perfectly to get the right fit.

The movement

The movement powering the Christopher Ward Trident Mk3 600 is the Sellita SW200-1. Hidden away behind the closed caseback, it’s a clone of the effervescent ETA 2824-2, but with an extra jewel. Now that ETA is starting to stop providing the 2824-2 and other movements to manufacturers who aren’t within the Swatch group, Sellita is one of the best alternatives to go for.

It has all the same specs: 28.8k bph (8 ticks a second), ~40-hour power reserve, hacking second hand, auto and hand winding capabilities. This one is coming at a reasonable +7.3 sec/day.

Final comments

When you consider the fact that everything is rebuilt to a much higher quality, the extra £100 from the Trident v2 doesn’t seem that much.

The attention to detail is sensational. I have heard about some QC issues and also timings; however there’s nothing wrong with mine so hopefully, they’ll get ironed out as time goes on. After all, the model has only been out for a matter of months; and I understand that Christopher Ward simply didn’t expect the sheer success and popularity of the Mk3 that it has received – so they’re playing catch up to demand.

The Christopher Ward Trident Mk3 looks fantastic; feels excellent quality in the hands, and is truly a premium dive watch. I adore it and can’t think of a more luxurious watch for the price.

The post Christopher Ward Trident Mk3 600 Watch Review appeared first on 12&60.

The event itself was between 6-9pm, and I arrived at the venue half an hour early – just enough time to nip around the corner to the local Costa and enjoy a coffee with James from Watch That Sweep – a great guy who has been running his watch blog and review site for just over a year now – so go check him out.

At 6 we headed off back to the venue. I was immediately warmly welcomed by Chris from the PR company, and a glass of Prosecco swiftly found my hand.

There were two main displays demonstrating the new range: a very cool waterfall, with the models directly under the cascading liquid, lit up in blue. Whilst this was an eye-catching display, it was actually a little bit wet right up close, a pain to photograph the watches, and therefore difficult to see the watches in detail. It was certainly more style over function, but that’s not to say it wasn’t welcome.

The other primary display was a fish tank full of water, with a pebble bed and some plantation. The Tridents were on stands within, showing off a small level of their underwater capabilities. This was a much more effective display, although you still couldn’t get your hands on the new watches. What were we to do?

Thankfully, further in and manned by Declan, the showroom manager at CWHQ, was a case full of the range available for handling.

Along the furthest brick wall was a collection of tasteful posters to set the scene.

The Prosecco kept flowing, and I managed to have a good chat with many. Of course, it was great to speak to many of the people from Christopher Ward – the man himself, co-founder Mike France, head designer Adrian Buchmann, and others who work behind the scenes.

Not only that, but I also had the pleasure of meeting up with some other highly influential people. It was inspiring speaking to Adrian from Bark & Jack, who has gone from strength to strength since starting his channel.

Armand from Armand The Watch Guy was someone else I enjoyed speaking to. He’s young, determined, and he has very impressive knowledge. What he does is remarkable.

Nicholas from Fears Watches was great to meet in person at long last. He was wearing a Brunswick, which is beautiful – and the amount of work that he does and that goes into each of these watches is impressive.

All in all, it was a successful event from Christopher Ward. The PR agency did a good job of organising a few different reviews to go out on the day of launch, and before that, we were asked to publish some “sneak peeks” to increase anticipation. It certainly worked, and judging by the reactions from forums and Facebook groups, I’m fairly certain the new Mk3 Trident has been flying off the shelves.

After handling the entire range (I had early access to the Elite 1000 for my review here), I can honestly say that they are fabulous watches for the money and they all have impressed me greatly. The 40mm version, in my eyes, is the perfect size – it’s a shame that initially it’s only available in black, but once sales start coming through the more colourways will become available.

I also had a chance to check out the new highly anticipated and redesigned quick-release bracelet, which allows simple and fast removal when usually it can be quite painful.

I look forward to getting my hands on the other models for an in-depth review – so keep your eyes peeled in the coming months!

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Where are the waves on the dial? Where are the onion hour hand and sword minute hand that is synonymous with the Trident?

I know, because I’ve thought the same. You see, Christopher Ward does not do things by half. When they decide to remake or redo something, they really go for it. Think of the new logo; which, in reality, was a complete overhaul of their branding – but also altered the entire aesthetics of their timepieces.

So now, with the latest iteration of the Trident – their most successful model – I’m not surprised that it is more or less a complete overhaul. What remains? In reality, the counterweight on the seconds hand: a cute Trident, and the deep-stamped caseback.

For some, this is an “end of an era” – and they’re right. I’ve owned and reviewed a number of the “classic” Tridents and loved each and every one. Will the Mk3 stand in such good stead? Time will tell, but first – let’s take a look at the watch itself.

There are 3 new models in the mk3 range; the standard “Pro”, starting at £695; the GMT which starts at £895, and this one: the C60 Trident Elite 1000 Limited Edition coming in at £1250. What’s more, they are available in 38mm and 42mm sizes; for many, a much more suitable size than the previous 43mm. There’s also a 40mm version only available in black dial and bezel configuration; which I’m sure will prove to be incredibly popular.

Let’s check out the Christopher Ward C60 Trident Mk3 Elite.

The video review

The specs

• Dimensions: 42mm diameter x 15mm height x 49mm lug to lug
• Weight: 104g
• Water resistance rating: 100ATM / 1000m
• Movement: Sellita SW200 (COSC)
• Accuracy: -19.5 sec/day
• Lug width: 22mm
• Warranty: 5 years
• Price: £1250, standard Tridents available from £695
• Available from: https://www.christopherward.co.uk/watches/dive/c60-trident-elite-1000-range

The case

What’s the difference? In this iteration, the Elite, the case is constructed from Titanium grade 2 and features a helium release valve at 9. Rather surprisingly, the colour is more like steel than titanium, so unless you know – you couldn’t tell.

The Mk3 Trident utilises Christopher Ward’s new style “light-catcher” case, which is being rolled out more and more across all the ranges. The flowing lines create a slimmer profile despite the 15mm depth on this model, and it is so much more interesting than the usual slab barrel case. I love the array of finishes and the curvaceous lines – it’s a work of art at every angle.

Christopher Ward has paid special attention to the noise of the bezel mechanism; it’s also beautifully smooth in use. At a get-together in Manchester, they boldly stated that the action is one of the best going, second only to Rolex. I don’t handle Rolexes too often so I can’t say for sure, but I can attest to the action on the Trident being excellent. It has a polished ceramic insert, with no pip which is a plus – the whole bezel is nice and smooth creating a streamlined look. The blue and orange are eye-catching, and the lume is strong and plentiful. The toothed grip is delicate but very easy to use thanks to the buttery action.

The threading for the crown has been reworked and enhanced for smooth engagement. That doesn’t necessarily mean that the logo on the crown will line up perfectly once it’s fully screwed in though – you have to give it quite a tighten to do that. The twin flags logo is accurately detailed against a frosted finish; the grip is gentle yet effective.

The caseback is very similar to before, with the Trident deep-stamped in the centre. The Trident itself has been redesigned, with a more aggressive and masculine tweak – not that it’s that obvious. The indents for the caseback removal tool imitate a diving regulator.

The flat, raised sapphire crystal seems like it has an upgrade too; there’s a definite and rather effective anti-reflective coating that works really well and provides a blue splash at certain angles.

The dial

For me, the dial is the key and most noticeable difference to the latest iteration of the Trident; namely the hands and dial base.

The previous hands certainly were distinctive; the onion hour and sword minute hands were elegant and the highlight for many. It’s natural then, that changing something so distinguished will create quite the stir. So yes, whilst I do miss the old hands, the new hands are distinctive in their own right; in particular the bold and directional triangular hour hand. The hands are spotlessly hand-finished, with a brushed central channel and polished sides.

The seconds hand is lovely, with the Trident counterweight and orange tip with a lumed disc near the top. I also really like the minute hand, a wide syringe style. The hour hand, though, is what it’s all about – and I have a feeling heads are going to roll about it. It’s certainly bold – an oversized triangle – but could it be a bit unbalanced visually? I’m undecided, and it’s most definitely a personal preference if you dig it or not. I also believe it’s a grower, so if at first, you don’t like it, give it time.

The other primary alteration is the dial base. What would have been a wave texture à la the Omega Seamaster, is now a smooth polished dial. This is obviously the blue option, but it’s also available in black. Christopher Ward says that this change is primarily for enhanced legibility, but I wonder if it’s to increase perceived value and “make it look more expensive” – it certainly has a modern Omega feel to it. It really does look beautiful – I’m a big fan of reflective dials, and I’ve seen a number of manufacturers use ceramic or enamel dials recently which do really catch the eye.

The logo. The one thing that has caused quite a controversy in recent years for Christopher Ward. On the Trident Mk3, the logo remains at 9, however, we also have the twin flags motif located at 12. For me, it’s a much better balance now with this addition, and the flags are painted and raised on the dial which makes it noticeable. I haven’t seen the black version, but in this instance, I like the subtle colour difference between the ink used for the flags and the blue dial base.

Since I can remember, Christopher Ward has struggled to make an impression when it comes to lume strength. They were focused on improving that with the Mk3, so they doubled the amount of lume, but also used better lume too – upgrading to SuperLumiNova Grade X1 GL C1. In order to double the amount, they’ve had to redesign the indexes to be able to contain the increased volume of lume paint.

The applied hour indices are deep (which I love) to house the lume. They have brushed sides and a polished ramp at the base, creating a pleasing collection of reflections based on the angle of the light.

The strap

The strap on this Elite is their new hybrid sports strap, crafted from fully waterproof Cordura and premium FKM rubber. I’ve tested it, and yes it’s waterproof alright and is also pretty hard wearing. Throwing the ball into the nearby river right on the edge of it for my dog to have a swim, I slipped and landed hard on my butt – and got the strap pretty wet and muddy in the process. I dipped the watch in the water, gave the strap a good scrub, and it’s back to looking as good as new.

The orange and blue colourway obviously works so well with the dial and bezel theme. The first keeper loop has a little holder either side to keep it in place, which is a nice touch and surprisingly handy. The underside has an interesting and comfortable texture to it, with the thin flags motif inlaid within.

The tang buckle is simple yet shapely and is fully brushed which should last well against wear and tear. The Christopher Ward logo is left aligned on the top bar, which is neatly and deeply engraved.

Unfortunately, I’ve not been able to get my hands on the bracelet, but the great news about that is that it features quick release pins. Bracelets are notoriously difficult to exchange so that’ll be quite revolutionary.

The movement

I’ve thought to myself, why not use their in-house SH21 movement? It seems a surprise to me not to, but the SH21 would increase the price even more (CWs with it in tend to start at £1500), so maybe it’s a case if they don’t want to outprice themselves at launch. Whatever the reason, I’m hoping they do eventually release a Trident with one in as it’ll be serious competition for other higher end brands with in-house movements such as Tudor, and even perhaps Breitling and Omega.

The movement that has been used is the Sellita SW200, and in the case of the Elite, it’s COSC certified. As this is a press loaner, it’s not been tested, hence the wild -19.5 sec/day accuracy. If you do go for one, however, don’t worry about that as you’ll get a COSC certificate proving it has been rigorously tested.

Final comments

There’s no doubt about it; in terms of quality, this is miles better than the previous generations of Trident. Everything has been rebuilt for the better: the case, the dial, the bezel, the lume, the strap/bracelet. And in reality, the fact that the standard “Pro” version is only £35 more than the Mk2 is pretty amazing.

With the Mk3, they’ve certainly made a statement: they’re toe to toe with the big boys and are offering a staggering package for the price. The Pro in particular – the quality is of such that it easily matches a watch worth double: think the likes of Oris or Tag Heuer.

I’ve no doubt that it’ll create a lot of “waves”; no doubt primarily about the new hands which I think some will be happy with, but some will hate with a never-ending passion. We’re a passionate bunch, watch enthusiasts, and when a timepiece like the Trident creates a furore that it does, you know it’s going to be a success.

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Let’s check out the (take a breath) Christopher Ward C65 Trident Bronze SH21 Limited Edition.

Video Review

The specs

• Dimensions: 41mm diameter x 12.5mm height x 47.1mm lug to lug
• Weight: 90g
• Water resistance rating: 15ATM / 150m
• Movement: SH21
• Accuracy: -6.2 sec/day
• Lug width: 22mm
• Warranty: 5 years
• Price: £1850
• Available from: https://www.christopherward.co.uk/watch/view-all-watches/c65-trident-bronze-sh21-2

The case

The C65 Trident utilises the same up-to-date, flowing case shape as is used on all their new models. Every angle is a work of art; multiple accents and lines seamlessly working together to create a flowing viewing experience.

For me, the size is perfect: coming in at 41mm diameter it’s is just big enough but wears smaller thanks to the sultry curves.

The case is made of C5191 (CuSn6) bronze and has already picked up a beautiful patina.

The bezel insert is on the small size, which I actually think looks great – a very modern font has been used too, and the triangle and lume pip at 12 is smart. In this instance, I really believe less is more and the subtleness of the bezel allows the dial to pop.

The tall, boxed sapphire crystal creates a great viewing impression. It sets the scene for the whole watch and vintage vibe. The anti-reflective coating isn’t the best though – it’s not the clearest.

The push-pull crown is good for hand-winding (being that it’s not automatic). It has the twin flags motif embossed on the end. As you’ll have to use it to fully wind the watch every 5 days, you’ll be pleased to know that it’s easy to use.

The screw-in caseback is steel – whilst this looks a bit jarring whilst next to the bronze, it’s not visible whilst wearing the watch. Steel is used for the caseback so it doesn’t seize up – otherwise, you won’t be able to get to the movement ever again. It features a deep-stamped Trident in the centre: think the same quality of Omega, for instance.

The dial

For me, the blue with the bronze highlights works so well. An interesting little touch is the fact that it’s domed, to follow the flow of the crystal – with the curved outer edge containing the minute track.

There’s the left-aligned Christopher Ward printed logo at 9, as well as the twin flags logo embossed at 12. The new logo has been quite the talking point since the release, but in this instance, it works really well.

There’s a running seconds subdial at 6, with a concentric circular pattern and a bevelled edge.

The hour markers are very gently cut out of the dial and protrude out past the domed edging.

The date window is tastefully done, with an unusual angled shape with a dark blue wheel to match the dial.

The hands are an alluring paddle shape, with a pitch and array of finishes which catches the light.

I’ve never found Christopher Ward watches to have the strongest lume, and this is the same story. It’s functional, but not the best in its class.

I think the design of the dial is the best yet from Christopher Ward; there’s something about it that’s just perfect – they’ve got it just right.

The strap

The strap is a soft yet rugged blue canvas, to match dial. Visually, it’s very trendy with white stitching which complements the dial well. With leather backing, it’s very comfortable on the wrist and remains supple enough.

It’s loaded with quick-release pins – interestingly, whilst we see these more or less all the time now, Christopher Ward was the first brand I saw take them up on all their straps. They make swapping them a doddle, without the need for any tools.

The tang buckle is also bronze to match the case, with the left-aligned Christopher Ward logo engraved into the top bar. The patina of the bronze has effected it visually it a little – it’s not quite as crisp as it would be new. Still, it looks cool.

The movement

The movement is quite possibly the primary reason why the price of this limited edition is so much more than the standard: it boasts Christopher Ward’s impressive in-house SH21 movement. Each SH21 is COSC certified and built in Switzerland. Whilst many movements are more or less based on other movements from the past, the SH21 is completely new and remarkably thought out. It’s described as a “tractor”: everything is sturdy, reliable, and made to tick away for a long time. It’s also very modular so specs can be added easily: in this instance, the automatic winding mechanism has been omitted, so it’s only hand wind. It has a whopping 5 day (120 hours) power reserve, so it’s not the end of the world if you forget to wind it after a few days. It’s a real you shame can’t see it though.

Final comments

The design and construction of the new C65 Trident are just beautiful, no doubt about it. I love how it looks; the domed crystal is mouthwatering and the subtle, the gentle class of the dial design is exquisite.

£1850 is most definitely a lot of money, there’s no doubt about it. But, with all things considered, it truly is a belter of a watch: the movement is remarkable, the design is sublime, and the construction is one that easily matches the price tag. Really, the only thing is to justify the price tag to yourself. Once you can do that, you’ll be very happy with the watch. And if you can’t? Then there are the cheaper options available (with Sellita movement and steel case) which look just as great.

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