Here’s another new release from the British brand; the Regent. It’s a Gerald Genta inspired piece, with definite Patek Phillipe and Audermars Piguet vibes.

Available in either skeleton or solid dial variants, as well as with a leather strap or bracelet, it promises a decent mechanical watch to the masses thanks to Rotary’s impressive high street exposure. Are the masses getting a decent watch for their money? Or are they being duped out of £329? Let’s find out.

The video review

The specs

• Dimensions: 40mm diameter x 11.8mm height x 48mm lug to lug
• Weight: 147g
• Water resistance rating: 10ATM / 100m
• Movement: Miyota 8N24
• Accuracy: +15.2 sec/day
• Warranty: 2 years
• Price: £329
• Available from: https://www.rotarywatches.com/regent/GB05415-04

Coming in at 40mm, it is a very lovely size on my approximate 7” wrist; and the height of 11.8mm is thinner than I was expecting too. It’ll certainly easily fit under a shirt cuff. Those Gerald Genta vibes are strong from the octagon shape case, as well as the flat, vertically brushed bezel.

There’s a lot of polished accents on this watch – I think it’ll start picking up hairline scratches very quickly. The sides of the case have a lovely mirror-like finish, but will get beat up pretty sharpish; the central link in the bracelet will be the same. However, it sure does make it quite flashy and enjoyable to view.

The plain push-pull crown is a bit disappointing, it’s screaming out for a logo or something etched or embossed on the end rather than the very plain brushed finish with nothing going on. It does have a good grip, however, with a rather nice rounded profile.

The bracelet is delightfully unusual, featuring a polished trapezoid central link, interlinking the brushed main links with polished sides. The links naturally curve in a wrist shape, so there’s not too much leeway in how it wears – but thankfully, it seems to be just the right fit. The concealed butterfly clasp is comfortable on the underside of the wrist too, and the over flapping notch has “REGENT” accurately engraved.

Rotary doesn’t specify the movement – but thankfully the model number “8N24” is printed on the rotor, referring to the Miyota 8N24. Specs include a 42 hour power reserve, beat rate of 21.6k bph (6 ticks per second), 21 jewels, and automatic and hand winding capabilities. It looks the part and is a step above the real cheap and cheerful skeletonised mechanical watches available for under £50. Finishing appears to be good and there doesn’t seem to be any kind of muck or dirt around. It doesn’t seem to have been regulated, as it’s coming in at a pretty wild +15.2 seconds a day.

The dial is eye-catching, but can also be problematic to read at a glance. For me, that’s not a problem at all – but I do know that can be of utmost importance for many. I do enjoy the depth that’s provided by the applied frame sitting on top of the movement, which supports the deep hour markers and makes the watch more readable than if it was solely skeletonised. the frame has made a feature out of the exposed balance wheel, with a bordered disc surrounding it which draws the eye.

The pitched hour and minute hands are thick and bold, with a slight dauphine shape to them, but are more sporty than dressy. The finishing is spotless, and the pitched aspect ensures they reflect the light in a way that stands out against the busy backdrop.

The lume is average, but you wouldn’t expect world-beating lume on a dress watch.

Final comments

All in all, it’s quite a tempting proposition. Sure there are cheaper skeleton watches, but it’s always a case of you get what you pay for. You could easily pay £50 for a half-decent Submariner homage, but as soon as you go down the skeleton route, those cheap and cheerful watches just don’t cut the mustard. You can tell when a skeleton watch is cheap. With the Rotary Regent, however, what you’re getting is a very well-built watch with a solid, dependable and nicely finished movement. It does look the part, and the various finishes on the bezel, case, and bracelet give it quite a flashy edge that will appeal to many, and it makes it look rather expensive.

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Much like the Seiko 5 range, the Super7 range is based on the number of features they possess (7 believe it or not). They are:

1. 300m water resistant
2. Miyota 8205 Automatic & Hand Winding with Day/Date
3. Scratch-resistant sapphire glass
4. Dual coloured luminous hands & markers
5. Screw down embossed crown & caseback
6. Applied dial markers – Stainless Steel With Thick Luminous
7. 120-click unidirectional bezel with pip

To me, at a glance, it looks like a great, solid alternative to the legendary Seiko SKX007. But, with better specs. Can it truly outperform that stalwart of diving watches? Let’s check it out.

The specs

• Dimensions: 42mm diameter x 14mm height x 48mm lug to lug
• Weight: 121g
• Water resistance rating: 30ATM / 300m
• Movement: Miyota 8205
• Accuracy: +14.1 sec/day
• Lug width: 22mm
• Warranty: 2 years
• Price: £219
• Available from: https://www.watchnation.com/product/rotary-super-7-s7s002s/

The video review

The case

How does it wear? Surprisingly well for a watch with a 42mm diameter, mainly thanks to the rather stubby lug length of 48mm. They don’t protrude out much at all, allowing it to fit well on my 7” wrist. The height of 14mm is a bit on the tall side, but it’s not the kind of watch you’ll. want or have to wear under your shirt cuff.

The case is a traditional rounded barrel style, nothing too exciting. Although I do like the slight angle on the bezel grip which flows nicely from the case main.

The case has polished sides, which is an interesting choice for what is, in reality, a tool watch that will inevitably get knocked about a bit. In fact, I got a small mark on the side of the case within the first couple of days of opening this one. Sad times. The case has brushed tops of the lugs and crown guards, as well as the bottom.

One of the features is the “120 click uni-directional rotating bezel with pip”. On the orange and black dialled options, it’s a ceramic insert, which is pleasantly glossy and catches the light. The gentle angle of the grip (it’s not straight up) allows for a very natural grip shape of your hand to rotate the bezel, coupled with the smooth action means it’s a joy to use. The insert also lines up perfectly (Seiko can learn a thing or two here).

The screw-in crown has an embossed Super7 logo on the end, and it easy to grip and has good protection from the crown guards. It’s polished, so may end up getting some scars.

Sitting on top of the case is a flat sapphire crystal, which offers excellent clarity. There’s nothing to say it has an anti-reflective coating, but the viewing pleasure this provides, it must have.

The screw-in caseback also has an embossed Super7 logo in the centre, against a frosted centre. Other bits of information surround this deep, central feature.

The dial

There is a selection of retro dial options: a bold orange, classic black, moss green or deep sea blue – so you have a pretty great selection of choices.

I like the bold orange option, it’s insanely readable and legible thanks to the thick hands, simple hour markers, and impressive lume.

The Super7 features dual-colour lume, for easy reference of the measurement of elapsed dive time. The minute hand and dot at 12 on the bezel are both blue, whilst the rest is green. It’s very strong indeed and I have been incredibly impressed by it.

The sword hands are not the most exciting design – but this watch is all about function over style. They’re bold, legible, and brimming full of lume.

The applied hour markers are very well finished and are thick – something I love to see. Thick markers indicate good build quality and close attention to detail, and the Rotary certainly displays that.

The day-date window has an attractive polished border around it, again an impressive touch. The wheels themselves are the stock movement wheels. The alignment of them is a little out, but that just comes with the territory of a budget movement.

The strap

The Rotary Super7 Scuba is available on a rubber strap or a solid stainless steel 3 link bracelet featuring a divers’ deployment clasp. I’m usually all for a bracelet, but I’m happy to have had the chance to check out the rubber strap, as it’s great.

The rubber is super soft and malleable – not stiff at all – allowing very comfortable wear. It has the classic waves which allow for a bit of stretch over a diving suit, and plenty of holes to keep things interesting.

The Super7 logo features in a few places which is nice to see: on the top of the buckle, a keeper loop, and at the base of the long length.

The buckle is another thing that’s different to the norm, which is great to see. Thick, chunky and dependable, with the logo deeply engraved.

With a 22mm lug width, it’s the kind of watch that is an absolute strap monster.

The movement

The movement powering the Rotary Super7 is the Miyota 8205. Yes, it’s not the fanciest movement; in fact, it’s pretty low-grade in terms of specs. But, it is pretty reliable. It runs at 21.6k bph (6 ticks per second), has hand and automatic winding, 21 jewels, and approximately 42-hour power reserve. It doesn’t have a hacking seconds hand so you won’t be able to get it set exactly very easily.

Let’s compare that to the Seiko 7s26, which can be found in the Seiko SKX007. The Seiko movement also doesn’t have a hacking seconds hand, but it also does not allow for hand winding – so the Miyota isn’t so bad after all.

The accuracy on this watch is a rather surprising +14.1 sec/day. Certainly in need of a bit of regulation, but manufacturers usually say if it’s within 20 seconds a day, it’s fine. That may be true, I just wish it was a bit more accurate out of the box (such as within 10 seconds a day).

Final comments

Is it a genuine alternative to the SXX007? Only time will tell if the Rotary Super7 Scuba will become Asia’s legendary.

But, I can confirm that this is a tremendous diver for a very competitive price. Indeed, if we were going by specs alone then it has the potential to be adult classic. The design is simple, bold, purposeful; the build quality is top-notch. Some may whinge about the movement, but the price tag and everything else makes it a perfectly acceptable decision in my eyes.

They set out to create an “affordable tool watch that can perform whilst being under £250”. They most certainly have succeeded. It has impressed me and I can highly recommend it.

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Upon looking at the listing for the Heritage, we noticed that it’s mentioned the design of this watch is based upon a previous model that Rotary had released decades ago. After some digging in the archives, we uncovered a watch made in the 1950s that bears a striking resemblance to the modern Heritage. It features the same handset, similar markings, an identical font for the numerals and a case akin to the new release. Learn more about it here.

SPECS

• Case diameter: 40mm
• Case thickness: 12.5mm
• Lug-to-lug: 50mm
• Lug width: 20mm
• Case material: Rose Gold Plated Stainless Steel
• Crystal: Bubble domed mineral
• Dial: Silver White
• Movement: Miyota 821a
• Water resistance: 50m
• Weight: 58g (approx)
• Warranty: 2 Year
• Price: £249
• Available from: https://www.rotarywatches.com/en/the-rotary-collection/timepieces-watches/gs05144-70

Given the diameter and style of the Heritage, one would assume that it would wear nicely on most wrist sizes, however, with the longer lug-to-lug measurement of 50mm that is unfortunately not the case. The lugs do slope down in typical vintage fashion though it doesn’t help on a wrist as thin as mine – six-inch to be precise. Because of this, we can’t recommend this watch if you have thin wrists unless you don’t mind a slight overhang from the lugs. Those with larger wrists could accommodate this better, and it would have a nicer wrist presence as a result. I would have liked to have seen a watch with a diameter and lug measurement that was more in-keeping with vintage dimensions though given this watch is new, this is is just how most watches of this style are now. The thickness of the watch is also slightly more than you might expect, coming in at 12.5mm it is thicker than most watches of this style. We can attribute that to the period-correct bubble mineral glass and the automatic movement.

There’s no question as to where the Heritage draws it’s inspiration, the aesthetic is undoubtedly vintage. From the slender tapered handset to the Arabics, this exudes vintage charm but with a modern twist. Around the dial, you’ll find a mix of polished Rose Gold numerals and circular markers that beautifully contrast against the Silver White sunburst finish. This all fuses in a fashion that is very pleasing to the eye and is remarkably legible too. Around the perimeter, you’ll find a simple minute track done in a style similar to the watch upon this is based. Under the twelve you’ll find the cleanly printed Rotary branding with the model name printed in Red underneath. Above the six – again printed, you’ll see it simply says ‘Self-winding’ and ‘21 Jewels’ referring to the movement. Surrounding the six numeral are the words ‘Limited Edition’ rather than Rotary’s usual ‘Since 1895’.

The case of the Heritage is made from Stainless Steel though there is no mention as to the grade, however, given the £249 price tag, we can assume it’s likely to be 316L. The case is then specially coated with a Rose Gold PVD finish which is very well done. The case profile and shape invokes that of a vintage watch with the three-tier design and lugs that are a perfect match. The lugs I have to say are often overlooked, but I appreciate the extra craftsmanship that has turned ordinary into something far elevated. The twisted nature of them is not only elegant, but it also blends with the aesthetic so seamlessly and adds to the appeal. I do, however, wish that they weren’t stepped and flowed from the mid-case in a more refined manner, that would be the icing on the cake. The fit and finish are great with very nice thanks to tight tolerances and a solid well-constructed feel.

Travelling to the right-hand side of the watch you’ll find the crown; this is a standard push-pull affair though the texture is well done and provides plenty of grip. The size is well proportioned and fits the design to a tee. On the crown, you’ll find that it is signed with the Rotary logo, which is a nice touch.

The caseback of any watch is where you can tell that corners have been cut, many will leave this area blank, some will have their branding and the specifications, whereas some will go the extra mile and decorate it. Rotary has gone down a different route and opted for an exhibition style caseback to expose the movement. This area is high polish and has the specifications subtly engraved around the window. The caseback is a simple press-on which is perfectly acceptable as watches of this design are not meant for adventures near water. Given that, the water-resistance is 50m which is more than some in this field.

At the heart of the Heritage you’ll find a Miyota 821a which is a modified variant of the Caliber 8215, this was not mentioned in the listing which is an inconvenience for those that like to know the inner workings of their watch. We discovered it was a Calibre 821a after researching into the 8215 and uncovering this modified variant.
As for the movement, we do wish that Rotary had gone the extra mile and added a custom rotor, though the original one does allow you to see the extra detailing done. So it’s a swings and roundabouts thing meaning it’s down to personal preference.

In terms of specifications, the 821a has a power reserve of 42 hours which is approximately what I uncovered during testing. The accuracy is stated at between -20 to +40 seconds per day which is broad, and I would say that the Heritage has been better than this as it is keeping time very well. Unfortunately, I can’t measure the accuracy to a high degree, but I know that it’s a few seconds behind my phone and easily within the tolerances. The beats per hour is 21600 giving it a nice sweep, though not as smooth as higher beat movements. We are okay with this as higher beat movements tend to need servicing more regularly due to the extra friction. The 821a also hacks meaning it’s a lot easier to set the time to a higher accuracy as the seconds hand stops once the crown has been pulled. The movement is also handwinding and it takes approximately 40 turns to give it a full power reserve.

We’d also like to note, this is a movement that has a date complication meaning it does have a ghost date which can be heard engaging, though not a deal-breaker, it makes me wonder why they didn’t opt for a no-date movement.

The Heritage arrives on a genuine leather strap with a croc pattern, this I think was the right call as it fits the watch perfectly. At the top of the long side of the strap, it starts at 20mm and then gently tapers down to 17mm at the end giving a classy look. It measures in at 124mm length and has 8 adjustment holes that have been very well done and look clean. The croc pattern is slowly starting to wrinkle and is ageing quite well. In terms of comfort, the strap has a soft inner side that feels nice against your wrist, it’s also reasonably supple and isn’t too rigid. Unfortunately, there aren’t enough adjustment holes for me to get a perfect fit, though it was still comfortable to wear.

The top part of the strap is around 85mm and houses two leather keepers, one of which is free-floating and both are well made. The stitching throughout looks uniform, neatly done and is colour matched to the strap as to not detract from it. The buckle design is very elegant and features some prominent branding that is still tasteful. The buckle feels solidly made and is nicely secured in place. I appreciate that they haven’t simply gone with a standard ‘off-the-shelf’ buckle as it shows care and thought has been applied.

As a whole the Rotary Heritage is a timepiece befitting of the name, the design is classy, elegant and refined which is further bolstered by the strong build quality and extra flourishes like the beautifully done lugs and dial. One of the slight drawbacks is the use of the Miyota 821a as it has a ghost date position, here we would have liked to have seen Rotary opt for something different just to add that extra fine touch to the watch as a whole. However, given the choice, we are glad they opted for the 821a over the 8215 as it is far more attractive movement to look at through the exhibition caseback and it has the hacking seconds function. I am also personally not a fan of how the red on the second’s hand and dial work with the colour scheme, though that is a personal preference, and you might have a differing opinion as this is how it was done on the watch it is based upon.

One other minor complaint is the extra-long lugs, yes the design is striking and stunning to look at, though it means that it sadly wears too big on my slimmer wrist and could likely on yours if you have a similar wrist size too. To combat this we would have liked to have seen a variant with dimensions more in-keeping with that you’d expect from a timepiece from that era – though that is not what was delivered.

So, even with all the above in mind, this is still a well-done timepiece that almost perfectly blends its vintage elements with its modern design traits into a compelling well-done watch.

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This is known as the Tradition, and can be had for £495 direct from Rotary. Of course, that is a fair amount of money, but for a Swiss Made automatic with original design it’s actually pretty much on point. So let’s take a look at whether this is a good alternative to the countless other dress watches in this price range. 

The Specs

• Diameter: 41.5mm
• Height: 12mm
• Lug to Lug Length: 47mm
• Weight: 77g
• Crystal: Sapphire
• Movement: Sellita SW200
• Strap: Alligator Stamped Leather
• Water Resistance: “Dolphin Standard” – likely 100m
• Warranty: Lifetime
• Lug width: 20mm

The case

The case is very fluid in design, with flowing lines and a bulbous appearance. The size is slightly on the larger size for a classic / smart watch at 41.5mm in diameter, but because of the base is thinner than the top of the case, it doesn’t feel too large on the wrist. 

The case is fully polished, and all the finishing and machining is flawless as you’d expect.

The key feature Rotary stress about the Tradition is the hidden crown. It’s definitely a nice touch, and merges in with the side of the case inconspicuously. It’s a shame that it’s unsigned, but that would stop it from being so concealed. One thing is worth noting though: because the crown is sunken into the case so much, it makes pulling it out to set the time a bit of a nightmare. And hand winding the movement is pretty much impossible.

The screw-in caseback has the exhibition window as its key component, with all the details of the watch deeply engraved surrounding it. The crystal is sapphire, and covers the movement in it’s entirety so you get a great view of it.

The dial

The dial is a pleasant champagne colour with a sunburst effect which has a texture that explodes outwards from the centre. This reflects the light really well, and when you take into consideration the polished pitched hands and applied hour markers it genuinely catches your eye.

The hands are all very simple, being straight batons with a small pointed tip. They’re pitched, so produce two different shades of reflection. The second hand is very slightly different, having the addition of a neat little hollow disc as a counterweight. They’re all very well made.

The applied hour markers are a similar design to the hands – pitched with a small point at either end. They’re all very well made and applied.

The printing is reasonably minimal – with the logo in the top half, “Tradition” and “Automatic” in the bottom half, Swiss Made at the foot of the dial and a minute track. It’s all crisp and delicate, especially the logo considering the complexity of it.

I like to see a date window located at 6, because I tend to find it makes the dials more symmetrical. The border around it is tidy, being inset at a lower level.

The strap

The leather strap is 20mm wide at the lugs, reducing to 18mm at the buckle. It’s labelled as alligator leather on the website, but I’m pretty sure it’s not actual alligator leather – but rather it just has an embossed alligator pattern stamped on. It’s patent leather, so it has a shiny finish to it – something I’m not too keen on but I can live with it. 

It’s good quality as you’d expect for a watch costing almost £500, and is very soft and comfortable on the wrist.

The tang buckle is of a pretty cool design – with a central bulge on a higher level housing the Rotary winged wheel logo that’s deeply engraved.

The movement

The movement in the Rotary Tradition is the excellent Sellita SW200. This is basically an exact replica of the revered ETA 2824-2, with the same specs, except it has an extra jewel below the ratchet wheel. This automatic movement has been used by the like of Christopher Ward, Oris, and is the base movement for Tag Heuer’s Calibre 5.

Sellita did some outsourcing for ETA in the past, and they use newer tooling and machines so many believe they’re better movements because of this. I’ve reviewed a number of watches with this movement in, and they’ve all been top notch.

The custom engraved rotor is a really nice touch.

The competition

The most like-for-like alternative is the Christopher Ward C5 Malvern mkII – it’s extremely similar in all respects, bar the price which is a bit cheaper at £399.

Other alternatives are the Melbourne Watch Co Parkville (£220) and the Brathwait Minimalist (£245).

Final comments

The Rotary Les Originales Tradition certainly is a nice watch – it has a simple, classic design, and is superbly built. It also has an excellent Swiss automatic movement which is quite a positive surprise. The Christopher Ward C5 is a little cheaper so I’d probably try and get one of these at a price less than the RRP. Whatever the case, if you decide on a Tradition, you can be sure that you’re getting a solid and dependable timepiece for your money.

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The Greenwich will cost you £319 direct from Rotary, but can be found cheaper elsewhere, and although it’s not an all-out homage it certainly takes design cues from other luxury brands. It’s one of their “Les Originales” range, meaning that it is higher quality than their standard watches and is Swiss Made. Still, is it good value at £319?

The Case

With any watch costing around the £300 mark, you’d expect it to be impressive. Thankfully, it is. A good size and shape, the Greenwich has a case that’s also well built.

The watch weighs 57g, and has a 40mm diameter, height of 9mm, and a 47.5mm lug to lug length. A comfortable size and weight, especially for smart wear. The yellow gold plating seems to be thick and durable. It’s also highly polished, with no marks and a mirror-like finish. The push-pull crown is a lovely touch, featuring the Rotary wheel with wings logo set within a black plastic end. The case has 3 buttons down the flanks of the case – 1 below the crown, and 2 on the opposite side. These control the various increments for the date. The push-on caseback is simple enough, and is not gold plated.

The Dial

To put it simply, the dial is exquisitely made – but I’m just not too happy with the aesthetics. The subdials seem crowded, resulting in a busy appearance. I think things could have been done a bit subtler, increasing the elegance.

The subdials are as follows: month at 12, date at 3, Moonphase at 6, and day at 9. These are all controlled by the pushers located on the sides of the case. All applied elements (hour markers, hands) are yellow gold plated to match the case. They’re spotlessly made and applied. All subdials have a classy concentric circular texture / pattern, creating a little bit of depth to the dial. The subdial housing the Moonphase indicator also has the printed logo within. All printing is accurate and fine. The Moonphase wheel is cute, and doesn’t take too much attention away from the rest of the dial.

The Strap

The black leather strap measures 20mm wide at the lugs, reducing down to 18mm at the buckle. The leather has a smart finish to it – it’s not quite as shiny as patent, but has more of a sheen to it than a standard leather strap. The leather is comfortable, soft on the wrist, and decent quality. The buckle is yellow gold plated, to match the case. It cleverly features the Rotary wheel with wings logo along the top bar.

The Movement

Powering the Greenwich is a Swiss Made Ronda 706.3. Rotary provide a lifetime guarantee which is pretty good and is not seen too often. It has 5 jewels, a 5 year battery life and is accurate to -10/+20 seconds per month.

Final comments

There’s no doubting that the Rotary Greenwich is a very well made watch. It’s certainly worth the money at under £300. Personally, though, I feel that the aesthetics are lacking a little; the dial seems a bit crowded and not quite elegant enough. But, that’s just my preference. If you like the look of it, then you can be happy in knowing that you’re getting a decent watch for the money.

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