Tribus Watch Reviews - 12&60 https://12and60.com/watch-reviews/brands/tribus/ Watch Reviews & Blog Tue, 30 Mar 2021 20:19:41 +0000 en-US hourly 1 224535848 Tribus TRI-01 Teal Watch Review https://12and60.com/tribus-tri-01-teal-watch-review/ https://12and60.com/tribus-tri-01-teal-watch-review/#respond Tue, 30 Mar 2021 20:19:37 +0000 https://12and60.com/?p=37304 Early 2020, watch enthusiasts all over the world were shocked when a member of the British royal family decided to abdicate his responsibilities. No, I’m not talking about Prince Harry,...

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Early 2020, watch enthusiasts all over the world were shocked when a member of the British royal family decided to abdicate his responsibilities. No, I’m not talking about Prince Harry, but rather Christopher Ward when he announced his shock departure from the watch brand bearing his very name. 

Some eagle-eyed fans noticed some funny goings-on right after his departure, namely his name going down as a director for a new company applied to companies house. As the months progressed, his non-compete agreement expired, and Tribus was announced.

This new brand launched with an impressive lineup of watches and boasts the incredible coup of being the official timekeeper of Liverpool FC, the current Premier League champions. As a Liverpool fan myself, it’s certainly very exciting to see this collaboration. However, I’m not too excited about their defence of the crown. 

It’s key to note that this is a brand lead by Chris’s three sons: James, Jonathan, and Jake. Whilst Chris’s involvement may get the headlines, they will deserve the praise just as much. I interviewed one of the founders, James Ward, here.

It’s my pleasure to be one of the first review sites to get my hands on their staple model, the TRI-01. 

Coming in at £1,395, it’s certainly more expensive than an equivalent model from Christopher Ward (the brand). Is it worth the extra price? Let’s check it out.

The video review

The specs

The TRI-01 is the core collection of Tribus’ offerings and is available in a multitude of configurations. Just like Cadbury Dairy Milk chocolate, which comes in all shapes and sizes and flavours (they even launched a limited edition with crisps in), at the core it’s still Cadbury’s chocolate. Similarly (this simile is a stretch, I know) the TRI-01 Small Seconds COSC comes in 5 dial colours, with three different cases – steel, gunmetal, and black). For clarity, this is the teal dial with a gunmetal case. I must admit, I didn’t know what to expect with such an unusual colour, but it’s delicious. Just like fruit and nut. No Kettle Chips here. 

The teal is a real breath of fresh air. It’s distinctive, slightly wild and wacky – which fits the bill with Tribus. After all, have you seen their marketing? Everything about them screams alternative, much like Radiohead (it’s got to be “The Bends” for me). In fact, they themselves say that “they don’t want to be another vanilla watch brand”. And they “want to be bold and not be afraid to push the boundaries”. 

Tribus state that their main inspiration here was the timeless appeal of small-second hand dials of the 40s and 50s. I see what they mean; it has a distinctive vintage vibe to it, but still looks modern. 

The dial has a subtle layer of depth to it, due to the pleasant slight concave nature of the small seconds subdial at 6, as well as the 3D triangular hour markers at 12, 3, 6 and 9. 

The viewing pleasure of the dial is exemplified by the domed crystal, which not only provides excellent clarity, but also a dreamy mellow distortion at tight angles. 

Moving on to the case, the gunmetal finish looks cool. As expected, it’s impeccably crafted. What’s impressed me is the distinction they’ve still managed to acquire between the predominantly brushed finish and the occasional polished ridge.

The solid screw-in crown has the splendid three rings logo deeply etched on the end, with decent grip. It also lines up perfectly every time – is that a fluke? I’m not sure, but I’m happy to see it. 

The caseback is secured into place with 6 screws, with an exhibition window in the centre flanked by a brushed ring around it with various specifics. 

If spending this much money on a watch, I always prefer a bracelet. Saying that, the strap is beautiful leather as you’d expect. Some might view the buckle as being a bit out of place, in terms of the bulky / aggressive design when compared to the slightly more eloquent rest of the watch. I like it, but some may feel it doesn’t quite match. The polished gunmetal is really appealing, and the engraved written logo is classy. 

Lume? What lume? They may as well have not bothered with it. Although it’s supposedly X1 GL C1 SuperLuminova, the hands and hour markers have such a tiny slither of the stuff, it’s hardly noticeable. 

I don’t know about you, but whenever I see a watch is powered by Sellita, I just assume it’s the SW-200, their popular clone of the ETA 2824-2. So when I saw that this watch had the SW-261 in, I was most intrigued. I needn’t have been, as it just means the second’s hand is at 6. One vital ingredient that’s been chucked into the Tribus pot is that every one of their watches is COSC certified. That immediately puts the £1395 price tag into perspective, as there aren’t that many cheaper options than that. Certainly none under £1000. The specs are: high beat rate of 28.8k bph (8 ticks a second), 31 jewels, 38-hour power reserve, hand and automatic winding, and a jacking seconds hand. As it’s COSC certified, the average daily rate should be within -4/+6 sec/day.

Final comments

I know what most of you are thinking. How can a new “luxury” Swiss brand, no longer than a year old, charge £1400 for a watch? 

For me, if you drill into that question, it seems that many put a lot of focus on one thing in particular: heritage. After all, if this very watch had an Oris or Longines logo on, no one would bat an eyelid. In fact, people would be impressed with the fact that it’s not much more expensive than the Oris Big Crown or Pro Pilot, or Longines Heritage Railroad or Military, yet is COSC certified. 

Sadly, I feel that heritage in the watch world is starting to be watered down. How many times in recent years have we seen “heritage” bought – that is, a name, brand, or a label, from decades ago, re-introduced by someone completely disconnected from that bequest? All they had to do was pay some dosh to reuse that faux legacy. 

Therefore, with Tribus, I feel what should matter most, is not what happened in the past, but what will happen in the future. And it looks pretty great. They have experience at the helm in the form of Christopher Ward. They have that incredible coup of being Liverpool FC’s official timekeeper, which will maintain their impressive exposure. It’s clear that they’re in it for the long haul, and they will build their own heritage. 

So enough rambling. Do I feel the watch justifies the price? Or vice-versa, does the price justify the watch? I feel it does. Beautifully manufactured, gorgeous design, COSC specs, from a new brand that has muscled its way in amongst its contemporaries. 

And if you’re a Manchester United fan, don’t worry. You can still buy one. We won’t tell. 

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An introduction to Tribus Watches and a Q&A with one of the founders https://12and60.com/an-introduction-to-tribus-watches-and-a-qa-with-one-of-the-founders/ https://12and60.com/an-introduction-to-tribus-watches-and-a-qa-with-one-of-the-founders/#comments Wed, 09 Sep 2020 09:20:58 +0000 https://12and60.com/?p=35181 On January 3rd 2020, Christopher Ward surprised the watch industry when he left the company that he cofounded 16 years previously, which was named after him. All seemed quiet until...

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On January 3rd 2020, Christopher Ward surprised the watch industry when he left the company that he cofounded 16 years previously, which was named after him.

All seemed quiet until some eagle-eyed folks on the Christopher Ward Enthusiasts Facebook Group discovered a new watchmaking company registered at companies house, with Chris named as a director. Excitement ensued.

This new brand, TRIBUS, launches today with an impressive lineup of watches and boasts the incredible coup of being the official timekeeper of Liverpool FC, the current Premier League champions. As a Liverpool fan myself, it’s certainly very exciting to see this collaboration.

However, it’s key to note that this is a brand lead by Chris’s three sons: James, Jonathan, and Jake. Whilst Chris’s involvement may get the headlines, they will deserve the praise just as much.

So, how about the watches?

All of their watches will use Swiss-made cases and movements (I understand it’s the same case manufacturer as IWC), with the four core TRIBUS models at launch all chronometer-certified. The mechanical movements are all either Sellita or Soprod, which to be honest isn’t a movement manufacturer that gets that much recognition. I understand they’re more expensive than ETAs – but many seem to view them as higher quality with a better finish.

Quite a lot of the watches feature a GMT / second-time zone function (some have 3 zones: a GMT hand and also an inner rotating bezel), and the models which feature a power reserve indicator are reminiscent of the IWC Portugieser. They boast a classic aviator style, although I was surprised to see no out-and-out diver watch in their launch collection.

Their models start at just under £1000, a fair bit more than Christopher Ward watches do. They are all mechanical on the site, and the guys assure me the quality is higher and the extra price when compared to CW, is justified. In addition to the LFC special edition on the Tribus site, the LFC store will stock several cheaper LFC themed options, more accessible for the masses – but these will still be Swiss Made to the same level, and with quartz chronograph movements instead.

They have also produced a limited edition model that tells the story of 303 Squadron, the Polish squadron that shot down the most enemy aircraft during the Battle of Britain during the Second World War. Despite this feat, the Polish would be barred from the British Victory March of 1946. TRIBUS is working with organisation Laguna’s Spitfire Legacy to raise awareness of this injustice, with proceeds from our TRI-05 watch being used towards the rebuilding of a Spitfire flown by Polish ace Piotr Łaguna that was shot down in 1941.

Let’s face it, the Ward family know what they’re doing. Yes, some may smirk at the asking price as the watches are all a bit of an unknown quantity. But, I’m convinced the brand will be a success, with its clean and traditional designs, optimum build quality, and staggering global network thanks to their impressive link up with LFC.

I’ll be one of the first to get my hands on one to review, so keep an eye out on my feed! Looking through the collection, I feel the simplicity and variety of colour options of the TRI-01 small seconds and also the more tool-like appearance of the TRI-02 GMT 3 Timezone stand out to me most.

Whatever the case, only time will tell if TRIBUS prove to be a successful watch manufacturer.

James Ward, one of the founders, was kind enough to answer a few of my questions.

1. Who are TRIBUS and what do they do?

We are TRIBUS, a watch brand formed by myself and my two brothers, Jonathon and Jake. We have previous history with watches thanks to our Dad Chris, who was always bringing different watches and clocks home. The name itself derives from the term for the first three tribes that grew into the Roman Empire, so I guess you can say we’re ambitious too…

Production-wise, all TRIBUS watches will be produced in Lugano, Switzerland, while we have staff based in Liverpool. Liverpool was known for its watchmaking industry some time ago, but we made the decision to go Swiss due to their expertise and quality.

We didn’t just want to be another vanilla watch brand. We want to be bold and not afraid to push the boundaries. Our focus on collaboration and storytelling goes a long way to achieving that. This approach ranges from our partnership with Liverpool FC to more leftfield partnerships such as our one with My Dog Sighs, one of the most exciting contemporary UK artists today.

We’re also working with not for profit organisation Łaguna’s Spitfire Legacy to raise awareness of the undervalued Polish effort as part of ‘the Few’ during the Battle of Britain, with proceeds from that watch going towards helping them rebuild a WW2 Spitfire and publicise the heroism of all involved. At the end of the day, we just want to challenge what people expect from a watch brand, whether that’s our marketing or raising awareness of topics that mean something to us.

2. What’s the affiliation with LFC and why is that so special?

From the age of six I’ve followed my club home, away and across Europe. It’s a passion that certain people can’t understand, its more than watching a game of football, its family, its friends, its an infectious buzz that’s impossible to shake. When the opportunity came to combine our families two passions of Swiss watchmaking and Liverpool FC it was a dream come true.

Business-wise, for a new brand to introduce themselves by partnering with the current Premier League Champions is obviously a big statement, but for us as die-hard Reds, it’s both incredible and surreal; I’m sure it’ll be even more surreal watching the Leeds game on Saturday and seeing our logo on the clock and pitchside advertising at Anfield! As fans of the club, we’ve been through the hard times and the good – watching the boys lift the Champions League inside the Wanda Metropolitano was probably a highlight. We know what the club means to the fans and want to create a range of watches that do it justice.

Our first model is the TRI-08 Premier League Champions Special Edition, which features special champions artwork on the backplate, plus the club crest embossed into the dial. This isn’t a mass-produced fashion watch with a crest stuck on; it’s a highly detailed Swiss-made watch, from its Sellita SW200 movement to its case. It looks great and it reminds you of a historic season – what more do you want?

3. What makes TRIBUS watches stand out?

I think our core TRIBUS collection has a design handwriting that’s really distinctive. We call it ‘retro-temporary’ – a mix of old and new. You have traditional aspects such as Arabic numerals, but we’ve also included some busier designs and different colours that you wouldn’t have had in the past. I think you can look at them and say, “that’s a TRIBUS”.

For watches made in conjunction with our partners, we’ve really let their stories dictate its design. Our TRI-05 303 Squadron P8331 Limited Edition, for example, features the red/white Polish Air Force chequerboard on its backplate, and the Kościuszko badge featured in a recessed subdial. It’s details like those that add that extra significance to a watch and display an understanding of what makes their stories special.

All in all, I’d like to think that people who see our watches agree that we’ve been ambitious from the get-go. We’ve also pushed to make our watches as Swiss as they can be, from movements to cases. Our core TRIBUS collection feature chronometer-certified movements, so customers are getting the full package in terms of Swiss precision.

4. What made you decide on the initial launch collection – notably, no dive watches?

I think that for the time being we just wanted to focus on making the initial range as good as it could be. We have six different models that we’re hugely proud of right now, and I think it speaks of our confidence in them that we didn’t need to release a dive watch to begin with. But that’s not to say they aren’t in the pipeline…

5. What can we expect in the future?

It seems strange to mention the future when 2020 has been so hectic, both with us working towards a launch date and with COVID hanging over us, but yes we have a few upcoming projects that we’re starting to turn our minds to. The first is our collaboration with My Dog Sighs, who’ll be hand-painting 50 dials as part of our Watch Paint Dry collection. He’s got carte blanche (is dial blanche a thing??) so we’re really excited to see what he comes up with.

We have more LFC watches on the drawing board, while there’s also a second football club we’re working with this season. Lastly, hopefully, we can expect another Premier League title at Anfield this season – make it happen Jürgen!!

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